65 Power Steering Conversion

[ol Curt]

That was such a great write up, I had to look at it all again. I was wrong about the bolt..mine wasn't the one in the shaft. It was one in the rag joint itself. I'm wondering if any if you have done the same conversion using a Borgeson joint on the end?

[TR65]

198plus Re: 65 Power Steering Conversion

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Where do you get the shaft extension, mine didn't come with one.......And why do you have to change the idler arm........Thanks

198,

The shaft extension came with the CPP kit. I think they sell them separately. I changed the idler arm because it was the last part of the suspension and steering I hadn't replaced, didn't have to.

ol Curt Re: 65 Power Steering Conversion

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That was such a great write up, I had to look at it all again. I was wrong about the bolt..mine wasn't the one in the shaft. It was one in the rag joint itself. I'm wondering if any if you have done the same conversion using a Borgeson joint on the end?

ol Curt,

Thanks. Someone else told me they had the spline bolt come loose and then waller out the spline until the steering wouldn't work.

I think a Borgeson joint would work well. You still have the connection problem. The Borgeson catalog has some interesting stuff on the connection. They say it is illegal in some states to weld anything on the steering system and definitely say don't do it. They also say to not use bolts either!! The only way they say to make a smooth shaft connection is by roll pins or shear pins.

Hmm,

TR

[198plus]

Thanks for clearing that up for me

Originally Posted by TR65

198,

The shaft extension came with the CPP kit. I think they sell them separately. I changed the idler arm because it was the last part of the suspension and steering I hadn't replaced.

TR

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by TR65

198,

The shaft extension came with the CPP kit. I think they sell them separately. I changed the idler arm because it was the last part of the suspension and steering I hadn't replaced, didn't have to.



ol Curt,

Thanks. Someone else told me they had the spline bolt come loose and then waller out the spline until the steering wouldn't work.

I think a Borgeson joint would work well. You still have the connection problem. The Borgeson catalog has some interesting stuff on the connection. They say it is illegal in some states to weld anything on the steering system and definitely say don't do it. They also say to not use bolts either!! The only way they say to make a smooth shaft connection is by roll pins or shear pins.

Hmm,

TR

Sometimes I think we are overly cautious with these. If they had super glue back then I am sure my grandpa would have used some on this truck!!

[hd74]

my question is does it have the same number of turns right and left> thanks

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by TR65

198, The only way they say to make a smooth shaft connection is by roll pins or shear pins.

Hmm,

TR

That's weird. Your bolt is a whole lot stronger than a shear pin. You could wire a shear pin in place, but not the roll pin. Better hope it doesn't work it's way out.

[TR65]

63 & 64 Bowties Re: 65 Power Steering Conversion

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TR65
198, The only way they say to make a smooth shaft connection is by roll pins or shear pins.

Hmm,

TR

That's weird. Your bolt is a whole lot stronger than a shear pin. You could wire a shear pin in place, but not the roll pin. Better hope it doesn't work it's way out.

Bowties,

They say that the fit between pin and shaft needs to be tight like you get from a roll pin so that it doesn't fret. I think the bolt will be fine.

They say the issue with welding is that you tend to not get any warning of failure and welds are not easy to inspect. A crack propagates until you kind of get an instant failure. ??

hd74 Re: 65 Power Steering Conversion

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my question is does it have the same number of turns right and left> thanks

HD, Mine is about one and one half turns each way. But it is not exactly the same each way. Evidently the stops are not quite symmetric.

Sometimes I think we are overly cautious with these. If they had super glue back then I am sure my grandpa would have used some on this truck!!

I hear you ol Curt. But it is a different world with too may rules and too many lawyers.

TR

[Byronic]

So to sum it up. A bolt and a weld would be ideal?

[slepysal]

i used a grade 8 bolt on mine a year ago still holding up fine

[TR65]

Time for an update. Got the lines run.
TR

[Captainfab]

As always a very nice job

[LILRED66]

Sharp install! Thanks for sharing. Converting to power steering is a relatively easy, inexpensive modification/upgrade, that makes a big difference in the driveability of these trucks. For a cleaner look, I vee the ends of the steering shaft, place a "V" block on the shaft, secure with clamps and run a full-penetration TIG bead, to weld the shaft back together. After top-dressing the weld and painting the shaft, it looks original. My father has 45+ years of A&P welding under his belt, so he does my structural welding for me. I have a few that are 8+ years and counting, with no issues.

[GMCMG]

TR65,
Thanks a ton for the great step by step! I am working on my frame now, and if all goes well (ha ha) will be working on this upgrade when I rebuild the front end with 5 lugs. You have answered all of my questions and then some! Now all I have to do is print off the 'TR65 manual' and I'm set! Chilton and Haynes should take some pointers from you!

[TR65]

Thanks for the kind words men!

Sharp install! Thanks for sharing. Converting to power steering is a relatively easy, inexpensive modification/upgrade, that makes a big difference in the driveability of these trucks. For a cleaner look, I vee the ends of the steering shaft, place a "V" block on the shaft, secure with clamps and run a full-penetration TIG bead, to weld the shaft back together. After top-dressing the weld and painting the shaft, it looks original. My father has 45+ years of A&P welding under his belt, so he does my structural welding for me. I have a few that are 8+ years and counting, with no issues.

No doubt a certified welder can weld the joint to be as strong or stronger than the virgin shaft. That has got to be the best solution. Perfect for restoration like Tony does. It is interesting that steering system welding is frowned upon or illegal according to Borgeson. Probably it is because of jack leg welders like me causing steering system failures.

TR65,
Thanks a ton for the great step by step! I am working on my frame now, and if all goes well (ha ha) will be working on this upgrade when I rebuild the front end with 5 lugs. You have answered all of my questions and then some! Now all I have to do is print off the 'TR65 manual' and I'm set! Chilton and Haynes should take some pointers from you!

Thanks GMCMG. I don't think Chilton has anything to worry about though.

TR

[tapeworm]

Nice!
I'll have to save this one for later

[1999corvette]

I have the piece like that I took off a 1974 Chevy truck when I got it's pump, and steering box, I think it's called the intermediate shaft, and it has the DD shaft that slips inside of it and has rivets that break in case of a crash, so it collapses for safety.

Looks just like the one you used.

What if you when drilling through this and the stock shaft, one was to turn just a bit, and you steering wheel was not straight up?

You could just pull the steering wheel off and get it on the splines that line up the closest right?

Or, would that affect the turn signal cancelling cam?

These are probably stupid questions, and probably wont happen, but it's just a "what if?"

[1999corvette]

Since the stock 1974 piece still has the DD shaft with it, should I use that with a adapter of some sort to connect to my 65' steering shaft, maybe doing it this way it would still have the collapse-able part in case of a wreck?

Just trying to see all the options and pick the one that is the best or easiest.

[kirtzen]

Here is another way to do the CPP shaft. I ground down both sides of the original shaft and inserted it all the way in the CPP shaft. So if the bolt breakes it will still be driveable. This is a good way to go if you dont weld.

[1999corvette]

How did you grind it, and did you take the shaft out of the truck to do it?

[kirtzen]

I took an angle grinder to it. I put a vise grip on it to hold it place and ground one side flat. Then spun it around and did the same on the other side. Took a few tries because i didn't want any play in it. It was a snug fit I had to lightly tap on it with a hammer to get it to slide all the way on. Then drilled the hole. It took about 10 minutes. It was on the truck.

[Blue Heeler]

good deal.

[TR65]

Originally Posted by kirtzen

Here is another way to do the CPP shaft. I ground down both sides of the original shaft and inserted it all the way in the CPP shaft. So if the bolt breakes it will still be driveable. This is a good way to go if you dont weld.
Attachment 686393

Dang, Why didn't I think of that. I believe that is a good way to go.

TR

[likaroc13]

so, is there any special things to look for in a rag joint? i thought it was a simple swap, but the guy from POL tells me i need to count splines & call back...he said some steering shafts have splines...i told him i'm converting my '66 to power steering using a '72 gear box...i also told him i would be using their rag joint coupler...i thought you just cut the shaft & use a rag joint for a '72? the coupler extension/shaft would allow connection between the original shaft and rag joint/gear box

btw, the truck is not with me, so i can't count ANYTHING

i assume one end of the rag joint will be smooth without splines, correct? or can somebody specifically tell me what i need to look for? thanks!

[TR65]

Originally Posted by likaroc13

so, is there any special things to look for in a rag joint? i thought it was a simple swap, but the guy from POL tells me i need to count splines & call back...he said some steering shafts have splines...i told him i'm converting my '66 to power steering using a '72 gear box...i also told him i would be using their rag joint coupler...i thought you just cut the shaft & use a rag joint for a '72? the coupler extension/shaft would allow connection between the original shaft and rag joint/gear box

btw, the truck is not with me, so i can't count ANYTHING

i assume one end of the rag joint will be smooth without splines, correct? or can somebody specifically tell me what i need to look for? thanks!

Fellow South Carolinian!

The rag joint is different for the manual box (bigger splined input shaft) and the P/S box (smaller splined shaft).

I used a Dorman unit # 31015 P/S for 73 and later C10's
(The manual box uses #31011) I couldn't find anything for the 72, although it is probably the same. Check this thread for 72 joints:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=390151

The extension shaft / coupler should mate up with the rag joint. It should have a smooth round input for the steering shaft, or a "D" shape for later model steering shafts or like mine which worked for either.

Good luck,

TR

[likaroc13]

thanks TR65



http://www.performanceonline.com/Cou...Joints-c-1112/

that's the link for what i'm looking at...does it look like that would work?