Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[62gmc910]

here is some 60-60 disc info for keeping the torsion bar
torsion bars and disc brakes

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=375432
On the c20 spindle swap I used c20 upper joints in 62 arms, and centerlink tierods etc from c20

[Ynotnow817]

Good info. thx

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by trenz68

Had a couple questions. I recently did a front disk brake conversion on my 68. They guy claimed it came off a 72 swb. The rotors are 1 1/4. A buddy of mine has a 72 with 1in rotors. The reason i ask is i want to install some drilled and slotted rotors but they are 1in. Would i have to get a different year rotor or change the caliper to fit 1in rotors. Any help would be appreciated.

The 1" rotors require a different spindle and caliper.
Just curious about the drilled and slotted 1" rotors since I'm looking for a set.
Do you know what brand they are or if they are for sale? (If you don't use
them)

The 1" rotors are "light duty" rotors that GM put on most of their 305 powered trucks in the early 80's.
I never have figured our the exact combo that made GM decide which rotors they put on which trucks.

[bubba327]

subscribed!! Thanks for assembling all this info. Great stuff to know..

[onequickchevy]

Thanks for the great info, looks like i'm going with new ball jointsfor 73-87 and junkyard donor steering components and spindles. Great job!

[rwolf9653]

Thanks for the great collection of information. I am filling this one for referance for later.

[phipp13]

Question for the disc brake conversion savvy. i have a 65 C10. i got 72 spindles & rotors,w/ new calipers,new balljoints & hoses. will they fit my 65 trucks A arms??? any help would be aprechiated.

[Slow Build]

What are the advantages of swapping the crossmember to 73-87 unit (ground clearance, better geometry, ...)?
Is it in some way better then 63-66 crossmember?

I have some options on some available parts. I already have upper and lower control arms, rotors and calipers in a box from the PO, though I don't know what year they are from yet. I might get some tubular upper control arms to correct some of the geometry and I'll be using dropped spindles and springs. So if the only advantage to the 73-87 crossmember is that it already has everything bolted to it and can be installed as a unit I'd probably be better off just switching out parts.

[Captainfab]

To my knowledge the '73-'87 front suspension crossmember is basically the same as the '63-'72 crossmember. The only difference that I can think of is the '73-'87's use a larger diameter U-bolt to attach the LCA shafts. So consequently the holes in the crossmember are larger to accomodate. The older crossmembers can obviously be drilled out. I would recommend upgrading to the later model larger LCA shaft U-bolts.

[davbell22602]

nice info

[65tileguy]

Ive Got a 65 1/2 ton Chevy LWB and I have a 66 3/4 ton that I bought as a parts truck. I was planning on using the 3/4 ton frame and suspension to do a frame-up build then swithch the 65 body over to it.

My question is can I use the 3/4 upper and lower control arms interchangeably with the 1/2 ton control arms? or are they different. I was planning on just using a bolt on kit, but after going through this thread...WOW!

I was avoiding doing late model parts swapping because I thought I would be in the dark on my own and end up f**ing it up. Thanks for organizing this!

any help is greatly appreciated. also, how do i add this thread to favorites?

Cheers!

[Captainfab]

If you are going to be building a frame from the ground up, I would suggest just swapping a complete '73-'87 C10 front suspension.....crossmember and all. Of course you can rebuild it all but that's what I would do. The only time you would want to use the C20 LCA's is when you use the '88-'98 spindles when going with 6 lug discs. The '66 C20 LCA's use a flat style shaft that bolts directly to the crossmember. So consequently there is no saddle to accept the C10 or later years C20's LCA's with round shafts.

To save this thread to your Favorites, just click on your 'Favorites' when viewing this thread, and when the drop down appears, click on 'Add to Favorites'. Then click on 'Add' in the next window that appears.

Originally Posted by 65tileguy

Ive Got a 65 1/2 ton Chevy LWB and I have a 66 3/4 ton that I bought as a parts truck. I was planning on using the 3/4 ton frame and suspension to do a frame-up build then swithch the 65 body over to it.

My question is can I use the 3/4 upper and lower control arms interchangeably with the 1/2 ton control arms? or are they different. I was planning on just using a bolt on kit, but after going through this thread...WOW!

I was avoiding doing late model parts swapping because I thought I would be in the dark on my own and end up f**ing it up. Thanks for organizing this!

any help is greatly appreciated. also, how do i add this thread to favorites?

Cheers!

[65tileguy]

Awesome, Thanks for that response, It was totally what I was thinking by the time I got done reading the thread. I was able to pick up an 81 1/2 ton crossmember with disks and all steering linkage for $125 on my local craigslist.

Im so excited to upgrade the whole system at once and I will save a ton of cash using the oem late model suspension rather than bolt on CPP parts!

I still might splurge on some aftermarket cross-drilled rotors though!

Thanks again for a great Thread!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 65tileguy

..... I was able to pick up an 81 1/2 ton crossmember with disks and all steering linkage for $125 on my local craigslist.!

I would considering rebuilding it before you do the conversion. It may be in great shape, but the parts are reasonable and you know everything is fresh.

[Captainfab]

Yep that will work good for you. I have to agree with N2TRUX that a rebuild of the front suspension and brakes would be a good idea. If the complete rebuild isn't in the budget, at least do the important and hard to do later parts. Keep me in mind for your steering box and brake booster mounting

Originally Posted by 65tileguy

Awesome, Thanks for that response, It was totally what I was thinking by the time I got done reading the thread. I was able to pick up an 81 1/2 ton crossmember with disks and all steering linkage for $125 on my local craigslist.

Im so excited to upgrade the whole system at once and I will save a ton of cash using the oem late model suspension rather than bolt on CPP parts!

I still might splurge on some aftermarket cross-drilled rotors though!

Thanks again for a great Thread!

[60apache]

here is a question I have not found answered yet. I have a 60 torsion bar truck. I want to convert to spring with discs. I read the write up on putting the late 70's early 80's subframe in but it requires some drilling and time. My question is will a 63 to 66 sub frame bolt right up to mine so then I can swap to the later disc conversion?

[Captainfab]

A '63-'72 front crossmember isn't going to make any difference to speak of. There will still be a number of holes to drill. I would just go with a complete '73-'87 front suspension. I prefer those over the earlier years.

Originally Posted by 60apache

here is a question I have not found answered yet. I have a 60 torsion bar truck. I want to convert to spring with discs. I read the write up on putting the late 70's early 80's subframe in but it requires some drilling and time. My question is will a 63 to 66 sub frame bolt right up to mine so then I can swap to the later disc conversion?

[60apache]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

A '63-'72 front crossmember isn't going to make any difference to speak of. There will still be a number of holes to drill. I would just go with a complete '73-'87 front suspension. I prefer those over the earlier years.

well I figured if I used a 63-67 front crossmember then it would bolt straight on my frame then I could upgrade to the newer a arms and brakes. just figured if it would work then It would be easier.

[60apache]

from what I have read the 73-87 crossmember requires drilling even on a 63-67 so this means it bolts up different on that frame also. seems to me that the frame on any 60-67 should be the same. so a 63-67 crossmember should bolt straight on??? can anyone confirm?

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by 60apache

from what I have read the 73-87 crossmember requires drilling even on a 63-67 so this means it bolts up different on that frame also. seems to me that the frame on any 60-67 should be the same. so a 63-67 crossmember should bolt straight on??? can anyone confirm?

The 60-62 frames are the 'X' frames and completely different. The 63-66 x-member will bolt up, but so will the 73+ that has all the disc parts already attached.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 60apache

from what I have read the 73-87 crossmember requires drilling even on a 63-67 so this means it bolts up different on that frame also. seems to me that the frame on any 60-67 should be the same. so a 63-67 crossmember should bolt straight on??? can anyone confirm?

To be more specific, the extra 'drilling' required when swapping a 73-up c.member into a 63-72 frame is 2-holes. The holes aren't 100% aligned between the different c.members requiring the drill to 'stretch' the holes slightly.

[60apache]

ok that makes sense the write up I read just seemed like it would be a difficult task so I was looking for an alternative.

[panelrodder81]

Ok so I'm working on a 64 3/4 ton and Im trying to get this thing ready for the disk brake swap with 88-98 parts. My question is whether ABS parts would be a problem. I've found plenty of parts trucks but they have ABS and I don't know if you can just not hook it up.

Next question is whether anyone has determinded whether the ball joints from the 88-98 trucks will fit the UPPER a arms of the 64. (I know the lowers fit as described in this thread.) I called Checker auto and they said they had upper joints for both my 64 and an 89 but that there were a couple options for the 64 and that I'd have to bring in my original joint for comparison. Since this is a daily driver I just can't take it apart to see.

Thoughts?

[Captainfab]

The ABS being there isn't going to hurt anything. Just leave it unhooked. As for the upper balljoints, the only options I can think of is 1/2 ton versus 3/4 ton. The main differences in the upper balljoints are the taper that fits into the spindle. I'm pretty sure the '89 upper balljoint will bolt into the '64 arm.

[64c20crewcab]

Great info! Thanks all for taking the time to gather and post it. I'll now be hunting for later model 3/4 spindles w/t 8-lug rotors, calipers & master cyl & booster + the complete steering linkage. Thanks again!