Trailing arm length, C-Notch Placement

[Bartonius]

What is the length of our trailing arms center of bushing to center of axle?
I am looking at a set of surplus NASCAR trailing arms that are 51" C to C, i tried to measure my junk ones and they seem just about 51" just looking for confirmation.

Also, when adding C-notches to the frame should the center of the notch opening be centered on the center of the bump stop bracket location? I have my truck down to the frame and forgot to measure, actually I forgot to measure most things.

Thanks in advance,

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Bartonius

What is the length of our trailing arms center of bushing to center of axle?
I am looking at a set of surplus NASCAR trailing arms that are 51" C to C, i tried to measure my junk ones and they seem just about 51" just looking for confirmation.

Also, when adding C-notches to the frame should the center of the notch opening be centered on the center of the bump stop bracket location? I have my truck down to the frame and forgot to measure, actually I forgot to measure most things.

Thanks in advance,

Yes on the 51". The centerline for the c-notch is subjective. Here's how I do them:

• I remove the springs & shocks.

• Raise the rear-end until the axle tubes hit the frame.

• Scribe a mark for the C/L of the tubes.

• Center the notch w/that.

[Bartonius]

Thanks for the quick response.

I agree that actually touching the axle to the frame while installed would be best, however my frame is on sawhorses and upside down! I just made up a set of notches at work and was hoping I could get them welded in while the frame was upside down, that seemed like it would be the easiest.

[ChiefRocka]

A better way:

The way I do it...is to u-bolt a scrap 3" pipe into the TA...then lift up along side the chassis....this will give you a more accurate notch location.

This way you can get the axle centered in the notch when fully laid out.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Bartonius

Thanks for the quick response.

I agree that actually touching the axle to the frame while installed would be best, however my frame is on sawhorses and upside down! I just made up a set of notches at work and was hoping I could get them welded in while the frame was upside down, that seemed like it would be the easiest.

I went outside & looked @ a 68 swb frame that has a bolt-in style c-notch installed. Since the frame is already cut, the original bump-stop mount is gone (as are the holes). It does look like the upper hole is centered w/the notch though.

I looked for something to measure from & used the reinforcement plate for the coils (it's rivited to the inside of the frame rail). Measuring from the upper rivet (one upper; 2 lower), I got 14.5" to the C/L of the notch which looks like it's inline w/the original upper bump-stop rivet hole.

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by Bartonius

What is the length of our trailing arms center of bushing to center of axle?
I am looking at a set of surplus NASCAR trailing arms that are 51" C to C, i tried to measure my junk ones and they seem just about 51" just looking for confirmation.

Also, when adding C-notches to the frame should the center of the notch opening be centered on the center of the bump stop bracket location? I have my truck down to the frame and forgot to measure, actually I forgot to measure most things.

Thanks in advance,

My Trailing Arms were literally coming apart at the seams so, I also bought a set of used NASCAR trailing arms they fit really good with a just a little work and yes the measurement is 51" to 51"1/4 (Don't quote me because it has been over a year ago since I went through this)

The ones that I got had a pin that is used to center the axle to the trailing arms so be prepared to either cut that pin off or drill holes for the pins in your mounting pads. I kept the pin and drilled holes I felt that it was better to have the pins.

Where the springs mount on the NASCAR arms you will probably have to cut off the bolts they have a special way of attaching the springs and it is off set to the right or higher on the right side, it really depends on where they come from and who the builder is the ones i got came from two different shops because they were both different. I'm using air bags so I just cut all that off and welded on my bag plate

One more thing you don't want a left and right you want two left (I think it is left) trailing arms they are the same as the right but the right NASCAR arm has the track bar adjustment and that is a pain to remove so I ended up getting a second one that was a much better and easier to adapt to the truck. I have pics somewhere around that I can post if needed

[MXmaniac]

Originally Posted by Bartonius

Also, when adding C-notches to the frame should the center of the notch opening be centered on the center of the bump stop bracket location?

I removed my springs to find the location, exactly as SCOTI suggested, and here's where my c-notch ended up in relation to the bump stop. I used a 4" ID pipe, if it matters for you. I can't take any measurements until this weekend when I get home.

Also, before I removed the springs I tied a length of string around the trailing arm mounting bolt(where it mounts to the crossmember), pulled it tight to the top of the axle tube, and rotated it up to see where it hit the frame. This let me see where the arc that the axle travels along intersects the frame. Hopefully that makes sense. After doing this I still wanted to see for sure if my marks were in the right place so I pulled the springs, and found my marks to be less than 1/4" off. So if you're careful this method, in theory, will work. I suppose in your case you'd have to just mark the string at 51" or whatever you decided the proper length to be.

Hopefully some of this helps, and here are some pictures.

Andrew

[Bartonius]

Thanks for all the help, I ordered the NASCAR arms, they should be in within a week. Ill just wait untill I get them and use the u-bolt and pipe method to find where my notches go. Thanks again.

[Hottrucks]

where did you get the arms and how much if you dont mind me asking??

[Bartonius]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

where did you get the arms and how much if you dont mind me asking??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I picked them up on EBAY from RACEPROVENPARTS for $133 Shipped. There are others guys selling the same brand for ~$200-$250. They are made by a company called RHE.

[Hottrucks]

dam that makes it a no brainer VS the stock ones.....you should do a build thread on the install...I would like to know more

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by Bartonius

Thanks for all the help, I ordered the NASCAR arms, they should be in within a week. Ill just wait untill I get them and use the u-bolt and pipe method to find where my notches go. Thanks again.

Here are some pictures of my build about half way through the slide show you can see the arms that I got.

http://home.comcast.net/~remock/Slid...slideshow.html

You can stop the slide show and page through them manually if needed just mouse over the picture and use the pause button in the middle of the slide show.

[Bartonius]

Got the arms in the mail today, man are they sweet. Nicely TIG welded everywhere you can tell they have been used a little but they are close to new.

Attached Pics
1. Here is the arms next to a tracing of the stock arms.

2. Here one is lined up (approximately) with the bushing cup.

3. Here is the Bushing cup seems to be the right size to accept the stock bushing, I have poly's in the mail so we will know soon.

[65Custom]

Dude those are nicer than the ones I got, but if you notice one has the track bar adjustment piece which you probably will remove, the one I got was welded into the side and would be hard to remove so I got another one that was with out that part.

Also check the spring pad the ones I got were wedged meaning that one side was shorter than the other So I cut that off and just put my bag plates right over the hole, which is in the same place as the originals
In looking at those, they may not have the bolt hole for the spring mount like the originals so you may have to keep the stud mount

Attached a pic of the ones I used
Bought them from here for $50 a piece
http://www.musclemotorsports.com/

Have fun

[Hottrucks]

do the U bolts slide right in???

I like the idea of the panard bar mount there..I was going to weld up something on to my stock ones but dam...it all done for yea...keep us posted on bushing size....my truck is bagged and I want to look into flipping my mounts to drop it some..is there any way to adjust pinion angle or will it require a wedge??

[Hottrucks]

now you did it I'm bidding on some!!

[Bartonius]

Originally Posted by 65Custom

Dude those are nicer than the ones I got, but if you notice one has the track bar adjustment piece which you probably will remove, the one I got was welded into the side and would be hard to remove so I got another one that was with out that part.

Also check the spring pad the ones I got were wedged meaning that one side was shorter than the other So I cut that off and just put my bag plates right over the hole, which is in the same place as the originals
In looking at those, they may not have the bolt hole for the spring mount like the originals so you may have to keep the stud mount

Have fun

The Spring pads seem to be even. And I am hoping the panard mount will work I picked up some rod-ends and am going to try to use the stock upper mount and run the bar to the mount on the arm.

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

do the U bolts slide right in???

I like the idea of the panard bar mount there..I was going to weld up something on to my stock ones but dam...it all done for yea...keep us posted on bushing size....my truck is bagged and I want to look into flipping my mounts to drop it some..is there any way to adjust pinion angle or will it require a wedge??

There is no feature to adjust the pinion angle, you would need a wedge. They are almost identically the same angle as the stockers.

[65Custom]

Actually a good idea on the panhard bar adjustment I didn't want to go that way I guess I was thinking that I wanted it to look more stock so I bought an adjustable bar from CPP that bolts right in but a good idea I have seem them done that way before

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by Bartonius

The Spring pads seem to be even. And I am hoping the panard mount will work I picked up some rod-ends and am going to try to use the stock upper mount and run the bar to the mount on the arm.

rock on that is what i would do... the long bar is going to give min. side travel with the bags..that hanger was a selling point for me...what are you going to use for rod ends?? regular heim joints?? I want a rubber bushing so it doesn't rattle??

Cpp is now selling a bracket that does the same thing...I bet there bar would be a perfect fit!!...

[Bartonius]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

rock on that is what i would do... the long bar is going to give min. side travel with the bags..that hanger was a selling point for me...what are you going to use for rod ends?? regular heim joints?? I want a rubber bushing so it doesn't rattle??

Cpp is now selling a bracket that does the same thing...I bet there bar would be a perfect fit!!...

Yeah the scrap bin at work is littered with 3/4 heims, I will try those first and move on if they don't work out.

[Hottrucks]

oh...send me a couple!!!

[Bartonius]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

do the U bolts slide right in???

I like the idea of the panard bar mount there..I was going to weld up something on to my stock ones but dam...it all done for yea...keep us posted on bushing size....my truck is bagged and I want to look into flipping my mounts to drop it some..is there any way to adjust pinion angle or will it require a wedge??

Got the Bushings in the mail Thursday. When I tried to put them in found that they were very loose, no way to use them as is. So I figured I could machine a spacer or something, then I decided to free the stock bushing cups from the junk arms.

I pressed out the cups and wire wheeled them. They seemed to be the proper size for a press fit in the NASCAR bushing housing. Found that a small lip inside the arm needed to be ground off, with that done everything went together nice.

The little extra ring of poly material needed to be trimmed, so I heated a utility blade and cut them down.

The panard looks like it will line up with a little encouragement.

[Hottrucks]

told you yhat you did it mine will be here in a week or so..thanx for the tip and the build

[Ghostwhite]

any updates on this? sounds like a decent alternative to stock arms

[aboyer]

Bartonius--Thanks for the information and pictures. I used to work in the racing industry and I think the RHE stands for Ray Everham Enterprises. I could be wrong though.

Just thought I would pass that along.

Adam