Tub/Door Bracing When Taking Body Off

[addicted2dunes]

I know, I know, it's probably been talked about before. Trust me, I use the search feature but came back empty.

I have seen and know a lot of you are bracing your door area to keep your tub from flexing when taking the tub off the frame. I was wondering what the best way to do this is and prevent tub flex? Also something that is easily removable, welded is fine as long as it cleans up easy. My thoughts were to make braces that bolt into the hinge pocket area and bolt to the door latch location. Has this been done? Who all has pictures of their non flexing ideas?

[jaros44sr]

Keep in mind that it has to be out of your way when it comes time to fit the door back on for final fit

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Keep in mind that it has to be out of your way when it comes time to fit the door back on for final fit

X 2 on this, you don't want to 'need' to remove the braces when it comes time to fit the doors.

It's primarily about keeping the firewall in place.

I built one that's a bolt in 'and' reversable that I can use on either side when the need arises.

[Blizz]

pics of what you built?

[PHAT TONY]

I set my gaps then welded some 1x1 from the dash top (under the pad) down to the "bed" floor behind the seat locations. It's been off-up-down-around and back on the frame, refit the doors; no problems.

[addicted2dunes]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Keep in mind that it has to be out of your way when it comes time to fit the door back on for final fit

I could just final fit the doors once the tub is back on the frame, right?

[SeventyOne]

i didn't brace anything when I took mine off. The top was already off, the body mounts were shot, and my gaps weren't too hot anyways. May have created more work down the line since I didn't brace but I'll deal with it later.

[tjsblazer]

How much do they actually flex if all the metal looks good. My Blazer spent it's whole life in the desert so rust isn't an issue as far as I can tell. Is bracing always necessary or only if there is rust/rot.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

How much do they actually flex if all the metal looks good. My Blazer spent it's whole life in the desert so rust isn't an issue as far as I can tell. Is bracing always necessary or only if there is rust/rot.

Beware of the desert myth, I thought the same thing once but came to find out otherwise when the body work began.

Thing is, the sand gets in, can't get out, traps what moisture there is and rust is the result.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

Beware of the desert myth, I thought the same thing once but came to find out otherwise when the body work began.

Thing is, the sand gets in, can't get out, traps what moisture there is and rust is the result.

Yes, I know what you mean, but so far (I haven't had it blasted yet) so good. I'd like to see pics of some different braces too.

[Huck]

Best brace is the top---if you can leave it in place. Second is the front clip---your firewall will have lots of movement without the top or front clip. Reality is to get all new body mounts---and expect some alignment issues especially with the door on the firewall/windhield frame and the rear quarter/rocker panel. After messing with a dozen or so Blazers/Jimmy's, it is my experience that the body will flex even if totally rust free as the "unibody" design with the torque boxes were insufficient to keep things aligned. "A" pillar to "B" pillar braces will help but you will still be challenged. Just keep in mind that the firewall controls the PITCH of the door A pillars and the firewall stability is a factor of the fenders to rad support/inner fenders attachment.