Inside windshield frame rust removal?

[Dzlhead]

Hi. I've been looking round here for years but I've posted only a few times so bear with me. I have a '72 Jimmy and the windshield frame is shot. I have a good replacement for it and I'm ready to get started. The many great posts here have given me the knowledge and courage to do this. My question is, has anyone taken care of the rust on the inside of these before replacing them? I believe these rust from the inside out. I came up with a few ideas I'd like to run them past you guys. Any advice/help would be great!

1. Acid dip. Good cuz it would get the inside. I would then weld those open corners up with a small sheet metal patch, but from past experience after time liquid seeps out of the creased/folded over areas and ruins the painted surfaces. But how could I protect the inside?... read below please.

2. Por-15. I understand that this product likes rust, not flakey, loose stuff, but general surface rust. Like I said I could block those ends, tip it over and literally pour the 3 step process in there. Refilp each time and let the stuff out. As for the final application I could bascially fill the frame and then tip it right side up and let it drain. In my small pee sized brain, lol, I think this would coat the whole inside.

3. Herculiner. I have used this product and loved it. You have to follow the directions to a T! Clean,dry,particle free so I would have to use the acid dip as I belive it won't stick to the surface rust. I got a wheel barrow for Father's Day and I wanted to see how this stuff worked so I did two coats and it's sweet... I also did my ATV plow twice, and no the snow doesn't stick to it. I would use this after the acid dip, but leary of the seepage and not sure if it would adhear to bare metal as well as to a painted surface, and we know we can't paint in here.

4. Eastwood makes a rust stabilizer I believe??

5. That home made rust removal with the metal rods, battery charger, in a plastic kid pool, etc??

6. Sandblast. Good for outside but... can't get inside.

I am open to any suggestions and I will gladly sit back and take any advice or critisim. Thank You for all your time.
Cable

[vtblazer]

I'd get a can of POR from the auto parts store and go that route, not sure what your talking about 'three step' process however, the POR I used was a one step application.
(does need a top coat for UV protection but that would be a concern for you)

Finding a way to de-scale the inside could be a challenge but the pour through is a good idea.
(get ready to play messy)

[Raindoc]

Dzlhead:

My 72 blazer has plenty of rust and a little in one corner of the windsheild frame. The only solution I have found that will get all the rust is acid dipping. I found a company that does dipping for auto restorations. Your question about dipping was how do you protect the bare metal inside. The company I spoke with said that as soon I recieve the bare pieces back from them put epoxy primer in a garden type pump sprayer with a long piece of small metal brake line attached. Then stick it in every place you can think of and spray it down until epoxy is running out. You especially want to get it into the spot weld areas. With your detached windshield frame you can access all the interior spaces from the openings in each corner. Once coated you can make your repairs, attach the frame to your body and follow up with the brake line applied epoxy to cover the repairs. For my Blazer tub I have a rotessery that will allow me to turn the tub any way I need it to get the epoxy to run in all the places needed. Your frame should be easy to flip over to do the same. Of course for the outside you need to spray epoxy on the bare metal asap and again for the welding is done. I will be taking the front section of my tub to the dipper next week. I will take pictures. Good luck

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Raindoc

Dzlhead:

My 72 blazer has plenty of rust and a little in one corner of the windsheild frame. The only solution I have found that will get all the rust is acid dipping. I found a company that does dipping for auto restorations. Your question about dipping was how do you protect the bare metal inside. The company I spoke with said that as soon I recieve the bare pieces back from them put epoxy primer in a garden type pump sprayer with a long piece of small metal brake line attached. Then stick it in every place you can think of and spray it down until epoxy is running out. You especially want to get it into the spot weld areas. With your detached windshield frame you can access all the interior spaces from the openings in each corner. Once coated you can make your repairs, attach the frame to your body and follow up with the brake line applied epoxy to cover the repairs. For my Blazer tub I have a rotessery that will allow me to turn the tub any way I need it to get the epoxy to run in all the places needed. Your frame should be easy to flip over to do the same. Of course for the outside you need to spray epoxy on the bare metal asap and again for the welding is done. I will be taking the front section of my tub to the dipper next week. I will take pictures. Good luck

What kind of expense are you talking about for that process?

Does that company offer a galvy dip?
That'd be sweet to ge right from the acid dip straight into a big galvy bath.

The parts your bringing in next week...?
Are you referring to the front clip as in the fenders/hood/rad supprt etc, or the actual tub?

[jaros44sr]

I've heard of a 'bodywax' spray, but haven't had a chance to look into it, don't even know where to get it ...yet

[Tom Vogel]

For what its worth, the body guy took my windshield frame apart.. sandblasted it, and epoxy coated it... then reassymbled it. It was effective, but expensive. Id go the POR 15 route or the rust converter if I did it my self... its a good idea IMHO.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

For what its worth, the body guy took my windshield frame apart.. sandblasted it, and epoxy coated it... then reassembled it. It was effective, but expensive. Id go the POR 15 route or the rust converter if I did it my self... its a good idea IMHO.

That's a interesting approach, never considered that, now I will

[Dzlhead]

I really like the pump spray idea. I think I have to be careful about product mentioning so, the POR-1# that I used has a web site that will detail it's process. I think 2 quarts would do it and I do expect to waist alot of product. I just wonder if the spray nozzle will be large enough for the POR-1# to pass through? If I use the epxoy primer, do I have to cover that with paint? I know regular primer will attract moisture, but I have never worked with the epoxy. I would be affraid to take it apart. I would much rather blast it but I've done some research and found that acid dipping has gotten better and there are some types that don't seap. Ya right......

[WHAMMYBAR66]

keep the ideas coming guys !

I am going to tackle this exact thing this spring.. and and don't know what I am going to do yet...

[Dusty71blazer]

Are you going to be welding on this?
Whatever route you go you will need to consider what the heat from welding will do to it.

[Raindoc]

I just called the acid dipper and they are 4-5 weeks behind. They mostly do industrial work but the owner is a car guy and wants to help his buddies. I separated the tub into four pieces: cab, 2 beds side and bed. Hoping to just take the cab on the first go round for budget and allowing enough time to get it coated without being in a rush, but they suggest bring it all at one time. I don't know if they can dip it in galvanize but they do have a spray on coating that gives you more time to do repairs and get a primer on it. The estimated cost for the whole tub is $1300-$1400. Doors are 140 each extra. I have looked into media blasting but they cannot get where they don't see and I believe that is where the next rust problem will generate from. The problems with acid dipping are 1) making sure all the acid is removed (espcially in the spot welds), 2) getting primer back in those tight areas and 3) in the areas that you can get to, scuff it to give a better bite for the primer. I will hold back on the name of the place, but it is in Burlington, NC. They have a location in South Carolina as well.

[vtblazer]

Have any pics of your tub pulled apart?

How were the joints where it was all bolted together?

Is there some sort of neutralizer that it could be dipped in afterwards to abate the acid from actually doing damage?

[Raindoc]

I will have some pics in a few days, promise.

There are a few welds. 1)at the tail gate where the rear bed post meets the bed floor, 2) there is a small tab below the tails lights that is spot welded to the rear face of the bed, it can be seen with the tail gate removed, 3) there are some spot welds below the door latch below thw bed floor height/ just above the spot welds for the rockers and 4) mine had been worked on before because there was a solid weld just below the door latch at bed height that was about 4" long, I had to cut a 1" by 4" peice out of the door jam to get it out. The pics will show you. The bolts were not too bad, I heated them with a torch and all but a few came out with having to cut them.

The acid process my folks use is 1) bake to remove paint, sealant etc, 2) pressure wash, 3) acid dip, 4) pressure wash, 5) dip in neutralizing solution and Bake again. I might be wrong here or there but in general this is the idea. The thing is alot easier to handle now and there is alot of areas exposed that I would have missed if left together. Putting it back together should be interesting but I have the dimensions for the mounts from my chassis and I have a large metal table that I plan on building a simple jig to make sure it goes togther right, plus I plan on mounting the top and doors as I weld it back together.

I hope to get a build page together soon but I have been working on this thing for over a year. The chassis is complete and I have test run the engine so now it's time for the body.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Raindoc

The acid process my folks use is
1) bake to remove paint, sealant etc
2) pressure wash
3) acid dip
4) pressure wash
5) dip in neutralizing solution and Bake again.

Answers the question, sounds like the right way to do it.

[Dzlhead]

I think once it's epoxied inside I will close up the ends with sheet metal. I am a good welder and will definitly take my time with cooling between tacks. I've got a small Lincoln MIG and have had great success at 22lbs for the 75%/25 gas. My feed varies beteen 4.5 and 5.5 while I bounce the heat dial from 2 to 3. I shouldn't warp it at that rate, but I could burn through the epoxy on the inside and not even know, huh?? I'll go slow at the low heat setting and allow for maximium cooling. Thanks for the statement Dusty71. I'm trying to cover all possibilities before I do it. I called an acid dipper here in Milwaukee this morning. I delt with them 10-15yrs ago and they are still around. She gave me a rough estimate of $25 to $50 to do the windshield frame. It should take 7-10 days and they are not behind. Infact, if I would have gotten there before noon she had room in a tank today! I couldn't make it. I also asked about the seepage and she said that in the 6yrs that she has been there she has never had a complaint. I told her that I understand that it does happen, 'cuz when I had parts done there years ago I got some. We had a good laugh 'cuz she didn't know what kind of shizzzz was going on there 10yrs ago. I asked her if they drink beer there and got a hell ya for an answer. I explained that I work at Miller Brewing here in Milwaukee and get free beer and some might "fall out of my Tahoe when I drop of the frame."..... "We'll take care of ya!, she said. I then asked about any coatings afterwards. They don't offer any, but there is a body shop kiddycorner. I called them and they will be happy to do that little of a part in epoxy. Especially if I have no time frame 'cuz they will use it as a filler job to use up epoxy that would be left in the gun from another job. I will stop there first before dipping to discuss the possibility of reaching the inside. If they can't I will use the pump sprayer idea when I get it home and either way I will use the POR-1# over the expoy on the top rail only. That will give me a rock soild and mainly smooth surface for the removable top's gasket to seal tight. I'm not worried about it fadeing due to the sunlight. I'll let you know what happens in the next few weeks. Thanx for your help. Cable