need to lower 3 inches a 79 1/2ton

[waltharper]

I got a nice little short/wide 1/2 ton. She has a very good 250 in-line with a 4 speed granny low, but no PS.

A few things need to be done to her to make a smooth riding truck. She will run down the road at 75 with no problem and haul 2 yards of dirt with no problem but she needs to go down about 3 inches I think.

What is a good easy "CHEAP" way to do this?

Also where can I find a "CHEAP" front sway bar for this girl?

Any help would be appricated.........

[big10ratrod77]

sway bar ya can get one off a 3/4 ton truck from a junk yard for like 20 or so bucks and when ya lower it you shouldnt need some of the brackets that are needed on a stock truck. ide say go 2.5 in the front and 4 in the back it wouldnt slam it but it would look good ive been lookin at a lowerng kit like that for my 77 even tho dad wont let me do it. the kit is five hundred and it comes with the spindles and the hangers and shackles.

[85gmcguy]

If you search "lowering C-10" you could probably read for hours. It's been kicked around on here for a loooong time. Cheapest sway bar source is the wrecking yard. Make sure you get the mounting brackets, too, aftermarket brackets ain't cheap... And Welcome!

[N2TRUX]

If it were me, I would go with a set of 2.5 or 3" spindles for the front. For the rear, you can go with a 2" shackle, and raise your front spring hanger an inch. The only way to get it much cheaper is cutting your stock springs up front.

I have no objections to cutting springs if done properly, but trying to get 3" from them will result in a harsh ride. Drop spindles won't change your ride at all.

[SBTork]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

If it were me, I would go with a set of 2.5 or 3" spindles for the front. For the rear, you can go with a 2" shackle, and raise your front spring hanger an inch. The only way to get it much cheaper is cutting your stock springs up front.

I have no objections to cutting springs if done properly, but trying to get 3" from them will result in a harsh ride. Drop spindles won't change your ride at all.

that's what I would do aswell. I have heard of guys with 3" drop springs hating the way they ride. Look into Classic Performance Parts, or site vender Jeff @ CPP, he can get you a really good deal on drop spindles.

[OARNGESI]

Originally Posted by n2trux

i have no objections to cutting springs if done properly, but trying to get 3" from them will result in a harsh ride. Drop spindles won't change your ride at all.

ive read on here from a few different members that if you want a 3in drop from springs stock cut springs ride better than 3in lowering springs

[westofb]

get the junk yard sway bar 3/4 ton, they are much larger than 1/2 ton for 20 bucks like mentioned above. Cut one coil off the bottom of your front spring, that's free just a little labor, move your front rear spring hangar up 2" higher on the frame.... again free, just a slight pita cutting off the old rivets and drilling new holes, well I guess you will have to buy 8 grade eight bolts too reattach them to the frame so say that will cost you about $3.00. Then but a set of drop spring shackles for around 20 bucks. You are looking at less than $45 in parts and should give you a 2-3 inch front drop and 4" rear, with the money you saved doing it way, spend it on parts that need replacing you are bound to find (ball joints, tie rod ends, brake componets, etc) when you have it apart!

[MobSled]

Cheap is never good for a truck if its meant to be as a daily driver. I do agree with the posts above. 3/4 ton swaybar from the junkyard, cut the 2 coils off the front springs, buy some lowering shackels and either remove some leafs or move the hangers up higher. Throughout my expiriences I found removing the leafs a lot easier then cutting the rivets and drilling holes through the frame to mount the hangers higher. Just my .02, good luck and good times!

[Keith Seymore]

I cut the springs in front, raised the hangers in the back.

Total cost was $1.38 for the grade eight bolts and $20 for an alignment (in 1987 dollars).

Been a daily driver for 24 years and 183,000 miles!

K

[westofb]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

I cut the springs in front, raised the hangers in the back.

Total cost was $1.38 for the grade eight bolts and $20 for an alignment (in 1987 dollars).

Been a daily driver for 24 years and 183,000 miles!

K

There you go! I guess I should have figured in the cost of an alignment as well, another $50-100 depending on the local rate.

Someone else commented on my origial post about not moving the hangers and to do the rear by removing leafs, yes that will lower the truck. However if you want to still use is as a truck, you would be drastically reducing your ability to haul and tow stuff!

[waltharper]

So this what my rig should look like when I am done. maybe not quite as shinny and with round head lights.......thanks for the advice.

How hard is it to redrill the frame?

[Keith Seymore]

Cutting the rivets is alot worse than redrilling the frame.

You can wack them with a hammer and chisel, or take a die grinder and grind the heads off. In either case, once you've done that you tap them and they come right out.

A couple other considerations:

a) It's critical that the front hangers get moved straight up; any mismatch side to side hear will result in dog tracking, because that's what locates the rear axle.

b) Depending on how high you move the brackets up you will run out of real estate to attach the rear spring hanger. I typically use two bolts and then run the spring eye bolt through the frame as well (using a spacer) to triangulate the attachment.

K

[waltharper]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Cutting the rivets is alot worse than redrilling the frame.

You can wack them with a hammer and chisel, or take a die grinder and grind the heads off. In either case, once you've done that you tap them and they come right out.

A couple other considerations:

a) It's critical that the front hangers get moved straight up; any mismatch side to side hear will result in dog tracking, because that's what locates the rear axle.

b) Depending on how high you move the brackets up you will run out of real estate to attach the rear spring hanger. I typically use two bolts and then run the spring eye bolt through the frame as well (using a spacer) to triangulate the attachment.

K

Keith, your truck looks really good.

I am hoping my will look that good again.

might hit you up for some suggestions as time goes by. I don't have a lot of cash and hoping to most of this my self. I got a good level paved driveway and a few tools.

[westofb]

I would also suggest the when and if you decide to move the rear hangers skyward, get a couple stout saw horses and at least 3 friends and set the bed off on the saw horses. Seymore is correct, cutting off the old rivets is much tougher than drilling the new holes, an air chisle could become your new best friend when doing this job if you can get one to use. Hand chisles and punches will work too, and don't forget the big f***ing hammer...LOL. I also liked Seymores idea about the spacer and longer spring eye bolt through the frame.