Can I re-build the front end

[Hugger]

I know...If I have to ask then the answer is probably no...
The only part that I'm questioning is the Tourqeing of the bushings, and the spec's on How tight, when to tighten etc...
I've replaced Tie-Rod ends, shocks, brakes, etc., just never ball joints and A-Arm busings.
The shop I have worked with some want $650 labor only!!
I don't think I would have any problems, but it's one of those things once you start you can't backout.

I already have the a$$ end tore down ready to install 4" drop springs, bushings, shock re-locators, adj panahard...
The front will get 2" lowered springs (I really can't afford to do the drop spindles right now)

Any advice would be appreciated.

72 chevy LWB 1/2 ton Coils

Erik

[john j]

Unless you have access to a press, do not even start this project. If my memory serves me right you have to press the ball joints out and in. As for the bushings i believe you press them also. You also have to be VERY careful when unbolting the ball joints so the spring does not fly out at you. john j

[Stroker]

The the upper ball joint are originally installed with rivets and the replacement ball joint will be a bolt in. If it's never been replaced you'll have to grind the heads and puch them out. The lower ball joint are press fit I took my A-arm to a front end shop and they charged me about $20 per arm to R&R. The bushing are screwed in unless they've been converted to a later model suspension. I'm sure you can get the torque specs from someone on the board. Now getting a 3/4 inch torque wrench might be a problem. I never found anyone or any place to rent one. The trickest part IMO was keeping the shaft centered while screwing in the bushings. It took me several attempts to get everything centered up. BTW it was my first time to do any front end work.

['72 Shorty]

What Stroker said. I did mine in one saturday and it really wasn't tough. I don't know what the spec is on the control arm bushings, i just torqued em down good and tight with a big honkin' end wrench. Just make sure you have another rig so you can get the lower A-arms to somewhere with a press. My local NAPA did mine in about 15 mins.

[COBALT]

Some pointers:

1. Get a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter for torquing. You'll need a 250 ft/lb wrench. A 1/2" drive torque wrench will work fine.

2. There's no avoiding getting the 3/4" drive sockets for the control arm bushings. You'll have to get two: one for the lowers and one for the uppers.

3. Yes, you have to grind off the rivets that hold the upper ball joint in place unless they've been replaced before. This is NOT hard at all. When you get the upper control arm out just put it in a vice, and grind off those heads. Use a punch to knock them out.

4. My Haynes manual has all the torque specs in them, but most replacement front-end parts worth their salt will have the torque specs on a sheet in the box they come in. Look for those. I know Moog does.

5. Used lower control arms can only take 2-3 ball joint presses before the opening gets too big and you either have to install a bushing, or get new lower control arms. Any front-end shop will do it in quick order.

6. Make sure you use brand new U-bolts for the center bars (with torque nuts) on the lower control arms that go through your cross member. Bolt stretch and wear will make these useless.

7. When putting the bushings in with the rubber seals and the center bars just bottom out one bushing on one side, turn the center bar as far to that bottomed-out bushing as possible, and then put on the other bushing until it bottoms out. Then center the bar. Don't try keeping the center bar centered while you try to turn in those bushings. It'll turn into a nightmare.