anyone put a 5speed behind a 230?

[amueller454]

hey everyone i picked up a 63 chevy that was in an accident and was a daily driver. i got the truck for a good price and i also got a 5 speed manual from an s10 with a 4.3. I know that the bolt pattern is the same but i was wondering about spline size and other things that people who have done a similar swap would know about. Thanks for the help!

[halfcockedcustoms]

on mine,,I used a astro van clutch disc with the stock pressure plate and throw out

[amueller454]

and the spline and everything worked out? Like was there any issues with spline size or are they all the same? Could you use the clutch from the s10 that came with the tranny? thanks for the help.

[Shaky]

I put a Richmond 5-speed behind a 250. The shifter was the hardest part.

[Ornery37]

I put both the s-10 5 speed from a 89' and a v-6 camaro 5-speed 92' behind some 283 v-8s that worked out, not sure on the inline 6, but on the v8 I had to trim off about an inch off the shaft that slips into the pilot bushing.

As for the clutch disk I think it is a 14 spline for both, I got a 10 or 11inch disk from the local performance shop for the s10 5 speed.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Here's one of the best write-ups I've seen on the T-5
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=313954

[halfcockedcustoms]

I had to cut a lil off the input shaft,,but afterwards found this http://hamiltonintakes.com/products/s10t-5-adapter.html pretty simple install all in all

[Rogue]

http://www.stovebolt.com/

[halfcockedcustoms]

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=171291

[amueller454]

the transmission i have is actually the NV3500 not the t-5. But i would guess that its all goingto be pretty similar.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by amueller454

the transmission i have is actually the NV3500 not the t-5. But i would guess that its all goingto be pretty similar.

The NV3500 is stronger than the T-5, but is also more difficult to install. There are two major problem areas: It was made only with an electric speedo drive, and the integral bellhousing requires that you convert to hydraulic clutch linkage. You will also have to get rid of your stock bellhousing crossmember and install a new crossmember at the rear of the transmission. The good news is that you can keep the stock clutch on your 230.

Unless you are dead set on keeping the stock dash appearance, it will be cheaper to switch to an electric speedo. The alternative is a device called Cable X, and that will cost about $200 more.
http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm

As for the clutch linkage, this write-up is quite detailed and has good pics of the process.
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=212959

Ray

[CWT]

I drove mine for the first time this morning to work. I used a 92 S-10 t-5, Hamilton plate and got a 14 spline disc from Napa. I had a G-body drive shaft that was very close to working so I ended up cutting 1" out of it. And dont let people fool you if you can weld and got a indicator put it back in the truck and roll it to get it true and weld it in the truck. Its alot smoother than before. Using the Hamilton plate and keeping the manual clutch is the only way to go in my opinion. Much simpler. And the shifter on a S-10 T-5 falls to the rear of the trans tunnel where it goes to step up under the seat couldnt have been any better.

[amueller454]

alright guys i got some work done on the old 63 the past couple weeks. i pulled the mangled front end off, pulled motor and tranny, cut off front frame rails and z'd 2" a new frame rail section. then i got the nv3500 mated to the 230 with no problems and installed and made a tranny crossmember.

But i have found one problem so far, the original starter bolted to the bellhousing and the nv3500 doesnt have the mounting holes for that and the block doesnt have any mounting spots for a starter either. So does anybody know anything about this or have any ideas?

[raycow]

That front end was really crunched. I envy anyone who can do the kind of frame repair you did on it. Good job there!

There is an aftermarket adaptor plate made for 55-56 V-8s that don't have the starter mounting holes. It fits between the block and bellhousing and will also fit your inline engine. But YOU DON'T NEED IT!

The 63-up 6 cylinder engines have starter mounting holes. They were needed on trucks with automatic transmissions and on all cars. Look carefully at the bottom of the block flange on the passenger side. If you don't see any holes, please shoot a pic of that area and post it here.

I just now looked at your front engine mounts, and if they are in the right location to fit your engine, I think you have a 292, not a 230.

Ray

[amueller454]

thanks ray, ill have to take another look at it. there was one hole for sure that i saw on the block but maybe the other one is filled with grease or something. here is a picture of the starter area, maybe it will help.

also have pictures of the clutch master cylinder installed and the linkage installed.

and how can i tell if it has a 292 or 230?

[raycow]

Originally Posted by amueller454

how can i tell if it has a 292 or 230?

Look at where the passenger side engine mount bolts to the block. If it is forward of the fuel pump you have a 292. If it is to the rear of the pump you have a 230 or 250.

You have to look at the bottom of the block from underneath to see the starter mounting holes. They won't be visible from above.

Ray

[amueller454]

ok i found the mounting holes. they are in line with each other and i have a starter and tried bolting it up and the holes lined up but its like the flexplate is too big in diameter so the starter wont slide up all the way. do you know any information about this? thanks

[raycow]

Yep, you don't have the third hole which is needed for a normal 168 tooth starter. Not to worry though. You can use what is called a "dual pattern" mini-starter. This will have 4 mounting holes all in line and will work with your 168 tooth flywheel on the holes you have now.

Ray

[amueller454]

ok great! Can i pick up one of those starters at a local parts store you think?

[raycow]

AFAIK, this type of starter is more of an aftermarket or speed shop item and was never used as an OEM part. You could try a normal parts store but you might get that "deer-in-the-headlights" look. In that case, it might be a good idea to print out this pic and take it along to show to the counterperson.
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/9...-350-383-.html

Ray

[amueller454]

ya that deer in the headlights look is typical of the parts stores. i called one and told them what i wanted then they asked what year.... anyways im gonna have to go in and see if they have anything like that. i appreciate all the useful information. also could i just buy the smaller 153 tooth flywheel instead of buying a starter?

[raycow]

Yes, if you can't find a starter to fit you can use a 153 tooth flywheel. The only problem then is that if you have an 11" clutch it won't bolt to the smaller flywheel and you will have to replace the clutch too.

Ray

[amueller454]

alright guys, i got it all put together and the driveshaft made and and the clutch lines made. then i got it licensed and spray painted the rest of the truck. hope you guys like it!

[CWT]

I like how you used the stock clutch pedal. That is what I had in mind when I first started researching this. Looks to work out perfect on location and fit.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by amueller454

alright guys, i got it all put together and the driveshaft made and and the clutch lines made. then i got it licensed and spray painted the rest of the truck. hope you guys like it!

Looks like it turned out real good. How did you finally sort out the starter/flywheel/clutch issue?

Ray