Build thread / Advice

[CenValyCali]

Originally Posted by TheDark1

How's the cab mounted? If it's a square body frame, the cab mounts would be modified (not riveted). It looks like you're going to need to get some numbers off of each major component to identify their origins. Axles can be redrilled/replaced with different patterns, so take too much for granted. --Jeff

Yeah If I can remember correctly the cab mounts were modified. Ok cool, I've lowered a square body frame before so this one shouldn't be a problem. Looks like I'll have to cut that mount off of the rear end so I can flip the leafs. What's the best way to do this, So not to heat up the rear to much? I've got a cut off wheel that will take most of the mount off then maybe grind the rest off? So other than try and but back the leafs I have now should I just go and grab some from the junk yard? The only reason for that would be because I might not have all the hardware. Let me hear what you guys think. Thanks

[Captainfab]

If it were me, I'd start with the rear end and suspension. I'd take out that Camaro rear end and what's left of those springs. Then I'd get a '73-'87 pickup rear end for it and either some stock '73-'87 rear springs, or what ever you were going to use to lower it.

Next I would take care of the wiring issues both under the hood and under the dash. You don't want to have a major wiring problem and burn your truck down.

Then of course something needs to be done to correctly mount the bed to the frame.

Originally Posted by CenValyCali

No doubt it will take me a long time to fix what the last owner tore up. There's not really any close up's of the body work but let me tell you, the amount of filler that this guy used could of lasted a few trucks Just from the pictures can you give me some pointers on where and what to fix? Thanks

[CenValyCali]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If it were me, I'd start with the rear end and suspension. I'd take out that Camaro rear end and what's left of those springs. Then I'd get a '73-'87 pickup rear end for it and either some stock '73-'87 rear springs, or what ever you were going to use to lower it.

Next I would take care of the wiring issues both under the hood and under the dash. You don't want to have a major wiring problem and burn your truck down.

Then of course something needs to be done to correctly mount the bed to the frame.

Thanks Cap, Cash is a little tight right now but I should at least be able to work on the wiring and I think I have everything to mount the bed better. Is there something wrong with that rear end(gears)? Thanks for your reply, let's me think about different things.

[Captainfab]

Those rear ends just aren't very durable behind a V8. They did seem to hold up under the vehicles they were installed in.....until you get a little agressive with them. That and the ring gear is only 7.5" in diameter versus 8.5 in the '81-'87 truck 10 bolts and 8.875" for the truck 12 bolts. And since there is so much that needs to be done to make this one right (left over original mounts,incorrect shock mounts, wouldn't bet on pinion angle being correct, etc.), I would just change it for a truck rear end. But of course this is just my opinion.......

Originally Posted by CenValyCali

Thanks Cap, Cash is a little tight right now but I should at least be able to work on the wiring and I think I have everything to mount the bed better. Is there something wrong with that rear end(gears)? Thanks for your reply, let's me think about different things.

[CenValyCali]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Those rear ends just aren't very durable behind a V8. They did seem to hold up under the vehicles they were installed in.....until you get a little agressive with them. That and the ring gear is only 7.5" in diameter versus 8.5 in the '81-'87 truck 10 bolts and 8.875" for the truck 12 bolts. And since there is so much that needs to be done to make this one right (left over original mounts,incorrect shock mounts, wouldn't bet on pinion angle being correct, etc.), I would just change it for a truck rear end. But of course this is just my opinion.......

Thanks again. I'm going to switch it out when cash permits it. You've made some good points.

[skoffice]

You lucked out with the disc front end and the power brakes though haha just trying to keep positive things goin for ya. And those tiger paw tires! Good burnout tires lol. Nice lookin interior on that thing too.

[CenValyCali]

Wow thanks a bunch! I needed that. Looks like tomorrow I'll get the linkage straightened out, right now it's backwards . The pictures I took were about the time we started bleeding the breaks so I got breaks now. Thanks again for the reply.

[CenValyCali]

OK it's been a while since the last update. Things have been slow due to losing my job and breaking my jaw but I have a few things to report and a few questions. So here we go. I got the linkage all sorted out and now it shifts properly. It still sticks some times so When the time comes I'll be putting a Gennie Shifter in and throwing the other out.
I took the bed off to take a look at what the PO did. Wow. Looks like alot of work. First off I'd like to dump both saddle tanks in the back because they hang to low. I'm going to possibly put one in the back of the bed for now just so I can get it around. Anyone see anything wrong with doing this for the mean time? I also have a rearend out of a 78 stepside that I can have, So I won't have to clean the rear end I have now, I can just replace it. Good thing is my frame still has the original mounting hardware still attached so I can mount my shocks easily . Does anyone see a problem with using the stepsides rearend (to long, to short)?
I'll be replacing the leafs I have now with the leafs from the stepside since there all together. So that's the plan for now. Here's my questions

1. I have a newer tilt steering column from a 73 to 88 chevy truck, but I want to put a older style wheel on it. What are my options?

2. The whole gas tank things has got me sick already. I want to put a blazer tank in and call it a day. So I need help with what to get. There's a blazer at the junk yard so I can get parts off of it. Just need to know what ones to get.

3. Now there's a gap between my wood of my bed and my frame that's probably close to 10 inches in some places. You can see in the back of the truck there's three 2x4 stacked up so that the bed lines lay properly with the lines on the cab and the lines on the fenders. The lines are fine but there's a problem with the amount of gap I got I'm not sure what question to ask here but can someone please help with ideas

4. Take a look at how close the bump stop is to the rear end in the pictures. Why is this? What will happen when I decided to use a flip kit to lower the truck? Will I have to run a notch because of how close the bump stop is?

Thanks for your help.

[padresag]

I would say that it was a newer frame also. spring hangers are newer. crossmembers don't look right and why would the box have to be jacked up.
I think that perhaps someone unloaded a problem on you
ron

[ConnDemned]

The newer column will have the ignition on it where an original won't, and the oler style wheel is thicker than a newer and won't bolt on correctly (found this out after breaking the horn piece on m/y column) I believe it has to do with the locking steering componets being further out than an older one without locking steering. Also I want to say Markb has mentioned an adapter to work for this problem.
I will also chime in that the frame is from a newer truck and you will have to rework the bed mounts to make up for the wood holding it up, maybe some square stock welded in. Or a slight body drop on the cab forward sheet metal.
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