What alternator and HEI should I get?

[Hazieview]

Hey guys I was thinking about getting a bran new alternator and HEI for my engine.

I am running a small block 400 which will turn around 6,000rpms max. It's just a mild street engine.

I also heard High output Alternators are good for slow windows like we all have on our old square bodies.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

[BLE 'BURBAN]

Alternator = 94 amp high output in a stock size case from napa part # 213-4356
Distributor = Someone else can chime in on.

[DubDubU]

google dui hei distributers, I really like mine.

[Hazieview]

Thanks for the replies

Is anyone running the MSD or Mallory distributors? Anyone else have a high output alternator?

[Adams74Chevy]

Originally Posted by Hazieview

Thanks for the replies

Is anyone running the MSD or Mallory distributors? Anyone else have a high output alternator?

I have a Mallory dual point I bought used I plan to put in my 350, but I have also a couple of stock HEI's sitting around so I don't know which would be better to use. The only down fall I see with the Mallory is if you need parts you'll most likely have to order them, while stock HEI parts should be easy to get at local parts stores.

[Slonaker]

I have a Mallory HEI in my truck. The ignition module went out a few months ago. It uses a standard 4 pin HEI module.

It works. I honestly have no idea if it is any better than a generic aftermarket HEI on my completely stock 350.

Slonaker

[juice03]

Originally Posted by Hazieview

Thanks for the replies

Is anyone running the MSD or Mallory distributors? Anyone else have a high output alternator?

I run a MSD distributor, works fine just needed to change the spring for the vacuum advance. I run a ZZ4 crate block in my 52 Chevy coupe and ran a stock HEI distributor but would cough and fart at around 4000, installed the MSD one and same thing. After doing some research I found that I had to change the spring (there supplied with it). It's been a great unit since, even bought an extra one for a future project.

[gchemist]

Get one of these: http://www.davessmallbodyheis.com/

You can upgrade your current alternator to 120 amps. Upgrade coss less than buying a new alternator. I run a 145 amp alternator from an '08 truck.

[Hazieview]

So the stock HEI I have should be just as good as the expensive MSD distributors?

As far as the alternator there are too many choices. I would like to just buy a bran new one but I dont have a clue what to run. One wire or three wire? Internal regulater? 140amps? 120amps?

Still lost.

[Slonaker]

I have a stock crate 350. If I was doing it again I would probably buy a cheap generic HEI like this one for $80:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/40002/10002/-1

Or a genuine Delco part like this:

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...40806/10002/-1.

As far as alternators go, I would go with something new if I could or at least a rebuilt one from a reputable source like the NAPA one suggested above by BLE 'BURBAN. You should not need a really high output alternator unless you are adding a bunch of electrical stuff to your truck, like big amps or something.

This is all just my opinion, of course. I don't try to buy the coolest or trendiest stuff available. I like to buy stuff that works reliably and is priced reasonably.

Slonaker

[78 Chevyrado]

I have this distributor.. Havent used it yet, but It looks GREAT!
Can't beat $45.

Other than a broken unit, I've never seen a crappy distributor.... maybe a crappy module, but not a dizzy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-B...Q5fAccessories
If you want, I can upload some pics I took when I took that dist apart...


As far as an alternator, if you're worried about simplicity, Since your truck came with a 3 wire setup, put another 3 wire setup in it's place...
I'm buying this as soon as I get my new tires..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Its neither here nor there choosing a one wire or 3 wire alternator.... no difference to the driver.. people use one wires, on cars that dont have the 3 wires already. there's no reason or cost difference not to just get what fits it already... same price so why change things unless you want to mess with it.

On these trucks, unless you want to clean things up by having less visible wires, there's no advantage or point to a one-wire alternator.

[asphaltburner]

Yo! I run Summit HEI distributors with MSD 6A ignitions in both my FRANKENTRUCK and '76 Camaro. I tune the HEIs with aftermarket weights and springs, and add high output coils. They come with an adjustable vacuum advance (which CAN be locked out). The results are impressive. SummitRacing.com has the parts. They'll also have alternators.
I get NAPA's best alternators for all my vehicles,...they have high output options.
Todd.

[John Gilbert]

For a brand-new alternator, I'd go with a Painless Powerstar, or anything from Powermaster. Google Custom Classic Trucks with any of these brand names for more info. For brand-new on a budget, I went with O'Reilly's Mexican made one-wire alternator that comes with a lifetime guarantee. It was alittle over a hundred bucks.

For a HEI, I second using a Davis DUI. Again Google CCT and tech will come up complete with before and after dyno results.

Stay away from the brand-new mailorder HEI distributors for $69.95, they're genuine Chinese junk.

[tucsonjwt]

I got a high output alternator off the net to help my slow windows but that did not help. My problem is I don't drive my truck very often, so the batteries drain down and even a high output alternator will not bring them back up if you don't drive much, and drive only at low city speeds when you do drive. I did install dual start batteries, which helps a bit with "starter heat soak" in my 454, especially in the desert heat, and helps a bit with the power windows. I am on my second free pair of Autozone gold batteries in 4 years - one of the few good deals on my truck.
One thing I have read is that a high output alternator needs bigger cables to the starter and battery. I might go that way, since it is supposed to also help starter heat soak, which still is a bit of an issue for my truck.
Here is the site of a guy who makes custom battery cables - seems to know what he is talking about:
http://custombatterycables.com/appli...ery_cables.htm
"However, if you have a big block, high compression or diesel engine you might want to consider our 2/0 cables."

[Orange77]

I get all my parts from a local shop called Dons Hot Rod Shop mostly because i only replace parts when they go out and they give me a decent discount for being a loyal customer lol...the HEI i got to replace my old one is a Taylor Cable HEI http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/640...oductId=874783 works great and looks great...The Alternator is a Proform i believe which i also got there http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-664451N/ if i had to do it again i would have gone with a 140 amp or more...the 100 amp is good my headlights dont dim anymore with it when my stereo is on (i have 2 6x9s an alpine deck 2 12in subs and an amp) but if i add power windows, doors, electric fans and other electrical items it might effect the amount of voltage i have left for the engine haha they are good parts though havent had any issues since i upgraded

[Hazieview]

I'm still a little lost on the distributor. My engine is pretty much a beefed up sb400. So I want a little better than my old stock HEI I had.

However I dont know how to rebuild HEIs or anything like that. So out of the box which would be my best bet. I really just want one I can buy online. MSD, Mallory, or DUI.

I'd like to have one that was name brand if the quality holds up to the brand.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks for your input guys. I'm just trying to learn as I go.

(I think I'm going to go with a power master 140 amp one wire alternator with 2 red top optima batteries.)

[78 Chevyrado]

Any aftermarket distributor will be better than the stocker. You can't go wrong as long as you pick one to match your top RPM. Pick any distributor you want, it doesnt matter. What does matter is the control box. Get multiple discharge, capacitive discharge and a rev limiter.

With a stock setup, the power all goes directly to the coil, with too much power when not needed and not enough at higher RPMS. With an aftermarket control box the power goes to the box and then the box gives the coil the right amount of power it needs each time.

As long as you have Capacitive Discharge, Multiple Spark, and a rev limiter, you're set. Just buy the distributor that goes with whichever control box you choose.


Capacitive discharge makes sure you have enough spark power at above 4500RPM.

The multiple spark at lower RPMS (like 3500RPM and below IIRC) will fire the spark plug multiple time for commonly 20 to 25 degrees of crank rotation, burning more of the fuel mixture than a single spark can, which gives better efficiency and gas mileage.

rev limiters arent just for racing and can save your engine. If you miss a shift, or the auto trans fails and slips suddenly, a u-joint lets go, spinning out on soft ground. all those can over rev your engine in a second. just because it still runs doesnt mean something inside isn't distorted. Get a rev limiter that slowy cuts power, not one that cuts it off like a switch. the first one is easier on everything, where the sudden cutoff can break things depending on how powerful your engine is. Think of the engine suddenly going from off to full power in the blink of an eye.


Is the high amp alternator and dual batteries to help the power windows? I put new motors and regulators on my 87 and they were faster than a new cars windows. Usually dual batteries will only make a difference for diesels that are cranking, big stereos and off road lights. also in cold weather if both batteries are half dead it may actually start. if you get a one wire alternator, you'll likely have to rev it up to about 1200rpms every time you start the engine so that it will start charging. also if you don't have gauges, the alt or gen light will no longer function. a volt gauge will still work though.

[hatzie]

HEI
The GM HEI is an excellent compact ignition... That's why you can buy Mallory HEI distributors for Chrysler and Ford engines.
The HEI REV limit is the stock module and coil set not the distributor. They reliably provide 50kv spark up to @4500 RPM and then drop volts rapidly when the coil can no longer fully charge between sparks. The stock coil has more windings than a high performance coil and the stock transistor module switches at @4milliseconds to fully charge it. If you're racing the engine at more than 4500 RPM, or plan on it, just put in a 6-7000 RPM coil and matching 2.5millisecond module.

A Jaocbs, Accel, Mallory, etc Multispark capacitive discharge ignition will provide max volts at enough RPMs to blow up your engine. I bought a Jacobs Ignition in 1990 for my 1985 truck to eke out a few more MPG. I only gained .4-.8mpg so the $300 didn't get me much in the mileage dept and I didn't spend much time at 5500 RPMs. I wished I had those 3 Benjamins for fuel several times.

If you are interested in rebuilding your HEI or modifying the advance curve on your HEI distributor have a look at the rustpuppy link in this thread --> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=398902.
I don't know if the Summit units are Chinese copies or not. If they are new the answer is probably yes. Personally I'd rebuild the GM HEI and drive it for another 25 years.

Window Motors
Brushing out the assorted crud and then properly lubricating the window wipers and felts with "Dry Film Silicone Spray" works wonders. Cleaning and lubricating the motor gears and regulator arms with Lithium Grease should help more. Dirty or burnt switch and relay contacts and/or corroded connector contacts can make the windows slow too. After 25+ years, the motor lube may be almost solid. The brushes in the motors may be worn down to the point where they are drawing more current than they should. Cardone Power Window Tech Bulletins in PDF

HO Alternator
The High Output alternator conversion with the widest replacement availability is the AC-Delco CS series CS130 105amp and CS144 120amp. Bumping your old 65amp SI to a 105amp CS will help keep up with more electrical goodies. The late '80s GM trucks used the CS130 and AC-Delco makes SI-CS plug in conversion adapter pigtails... Use AC Delco: 8078 with a 35 ohm resistor if you have a voltage gauge or - AC Delco: 8077 without a resistor for warning lamp panels.

Google CS130 conversion there's a ton of info on this swap.

Just my $0.02