bolt bed to frame under wood?

[gulffishin]

I have taken the wood out of my bed and am getting ready to put in the new wood. I was wondering if it is safe to bolt the cross sills to the frame using short carriage bolts under the wood using only the bottom holes (bolt not going through both the top and bottom of the cross sill). I am worried that the bolt could eventually wear through the hole and cause the bed to come loose while driving.

If I am going about this wrong, how do I go about hiding the bolts that hold the bed to the frame?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Clyde65]

I put a short bolt from the bed cross sill mount and bolted it to the frame 18 years ago ( basically bolting the way it was from factory but not putting the bolt thru the wood) and havent had 1 problem.

[gulffishin]

Thanks, that's just what I wanted to hear. I guess the only problem I would have is if I wanted to take the bed off without having to take the wood out, but I don't plan on taking the bed off anytime soon.

[Clyde65]

The bed is VERY, VERY heavy with the wood in it, just an FYI

[62 Bowtie]

Yeah I did the same thing used grade 8 bolts washers and nuts looks nice and clean when done

[lakeroadster]

If I understand your question I must state that the plates that are on the bottom of the cross sills are attached only with very small resistance spot welds.

I know this because I had to remove and relocate the plates when I widened the bed on my truck.

I wouldn't trust them to hold the bed on, they were never intended as structural attachments, there purpose is simply to keep the sills from spreading and to serve as a washer between the sills and the frame.

My 2 cents...................

[gulffishin]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

If I understand your question I must state that the plates that are on the bottom of the cross sills are attached only with very small resistance spot welds.

I know this because I had to remove and relocate the plates when I widened the bed on my truck.

I wouldn't trust them to hold the bed on, they were never intended as structural attachments, there purpose is simply to keep the sills from spreading and to serve as a washer between the sills and the frame.

My 2 cents...................

Yes, you understood my question exactly. So, you think it would be better to go ahead and attach the bed back the way it was? I like the other look better, but I don't want to loose the bed after going over the railroad tracks either.
Posted via Mobile Device

[thunder71]

how about if you weld the bottom plates to the sills before the install? i think this would work

[62 Bowtie]

yeah when i got my truck the wood was rotted as ive seen with many trucks. I could lift the bed about two inches And trucks with bags have no wood and somehow manage, on the 62 anyway two of the crossills bolt directly to the frame and one bolt at each corner where we did re-inforce the welds this works for me. Funny you should mention railroad tracks i went for a test ride in another truck over tracks and heard all kinds of noise and his bed was bolted down through the wood

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by gulffishin

I have taken the wood out of my bed and am getting ready to put in the new wood. I was wondering if it is safe to bolt the cross sills to the frame using short carriage bolts under the wood using only the bottom holes (bolt not going through both the top and bottom of the cross sill). I am worried that the bolt could eventually wear through the hole and cause the bed to come loose while driving.

If I am going about this wrong, how do I go about hiding the bolts that hold the bed to the frame?
Posted via Mobile Device

if you read this before I edit please disregard. I see your point lakeroadster, I didn't understand which spotwelds you were referring to

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by gulffishin

So, you think it would be better to go ahead and attach the bed back the way it was? Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by thunder71

How about if you weld the bottom plates to the sills before the install? i think this would work

Thunder71's idea of welding the plates should be sufficient for a truck that only sees light duty. I wouldn't trust this method but I am pretty conservative on such matters. From an "engineering related bolted joint perspective" the method being described is much weeker than the factory style through bolted joint.

Originally Posted by fleetsidelarry

If you read this before I edit please disregard. I see your point lakeroadster, I didn't understand which spotwelds you were referring to

No problem Larry, it's all good.

[Sillyoldman]

I did the same with my '63. I decided to drop four bolts through the top and bolted the rest from below the wood. Four would have been enough imo. It's just shear strenght.

[andyh1956]

what would be wrong with using a bolt thru the cross sill to hold the sills to the frame, then a counter sink on the wood bottom so that the wood would sit flush with the cross sill? i had been thinking about this same thing & don't see why this wouldn't be the best solution, strength & beauty.
andy
p.s. only five more weeks on my sentence. wahoo!

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by Sillyoldman

I did the same with my '63. I decided to drop four bolts through the top and bolted the rest from below the wood. Four would have been enough imo. It's just shear strenght.

The shear strength of the bolts isn't the topic that is being discussed. The sheet metal square washers that are resistance welded to the cross sills is the concern. These washers were never intended to carry any load other than the compressive load of the fastener / weight of the bed.

Originally Posted by andyh1956

what would be wrong with using a bolt thru the cross sill to hold the sills to the frame, then a counter sink on the wood bottom so that the wood would sit flush with the cross sill? i had been thinking about this same thing & don't see why this wouldn't be the best solution, strength & beauty.
andy
p.s. only five more weeks on my sentence. wahoo!

Excellent idea!

[Shorty Cox]

Guys, I would like to ask a very basic question about replacing bed wood.

I need to replace mine, my question.

Does one have to remove the bed from the truck to do so?

Shorty

[Clyde65]

no.

How ever if it has been a long time since the wood has been replaced then the bolts will probably be rusted and will require some persuasion. In that case I would remove and place up where you can get to everything easily to remove, cut or torch the bolts off if needed.

[lakeroadster]

Originally Posted by Shorty Cox

Guys, I would like to ask a very basic question about replacing bed wood.

I need to replace mine, my question.

Does one have to remove the bed from the truck to do so?

Shorty

Here is a thread on that very topic! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=408615

[Captainfab]

I agree with Lakeroadster, that is a good idea. I would like to suggest one added feature though. Add a piece of tube between the top and bottom of the cross sill. This will prevent crushing the cross sill.

Originally Posted by andyh1956

what would be wrong with using a bolt thru the cross sill to hold the sills to the frame, then a counter sink on the wood bottom so that the wood would sit flush with the cross sill? i had been thinking about this same thing & don't see why this wouldn't be the best solution, strength & beauty.
andy
p.s. only five more weeks on my sentence. wahoo!

[fleetsidelarry]

great idea from andyh and great suggestion from Captainfab, mine's apart right now and I might just make use of these suggestions-Thanks

[andyh1956]

several years ago i had to repair a later model ford pickup that had been hit in the front left corner head on. the ford was sitting still at the time of the wreck. the force of the impact aganst the frame had the bed sitting funky on the truck. to my amazement there were NO bolts thru the top of the bed down to the frame. when looking from the bottom i saw c channels of thin metal running crossways to the bottom of the bed welded at the top of the c to the bottom of the bed. these were then bolted to the frame at the bottom of the c with small bolts. these would be the eqv. of the cross sills on our trucks. they had bent when the frame traveled rearward from the front impact & that is why the bed was sitting funky. i had to remove the bed & invert it to straighten the c channels. if the bed had been secured as chevy built our beds then i don't think it would have ever moved. when i was doing this job i remembered a ford comercial where they picked up a ford pickup by the bed & touted how strong the bed bolts were. what a crock! i personaly like my stuff to be as strong as possible so i will bolt thru the cross sill when i do my bed. regardless how you do yours don't forget to post some photos of your handi work!
andy

[andyh1956]

ok one more idea then i'll shut up. we're under mortar attack now anyway & the mwr is in a hard building so i can't leave.
on the cross sill where the long carriage bolt passes thru - cut the hole out of the top of the sill & move it down just the thickness of the head of the bolt & then weld it back in with a spacer to keep it from collapsing like Captainfab suggested. it's either stock, wood work or metal work, take your pick.
ok i'll shut up now. i promise.
andy

[Rich 5150 69]

For those of you that have seen my bed here I have a plywood underlayment, well after 15 years its gone, I never sealed it, so I `m considering building all new sills from 2.5 x 1.5 x1/8 th wall rect steel and bolt thru.

[creep]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I agree with Lakeroadster, that is a good idea. I would like to suggest one added feature though. Add a piece of tube between the top and bottom of the cross sill. This will prevent crushing the cross sill.

I would also tack weld the head of the bolts to the top of the sills so you can tighten/loosen them without removing the bed wood.

[Captainfab]

Another good idea.....

Originally Posted by creep

I would also tack weld the head of the bolts to the top of the sills so you can tighten/loosen them without removing the bed wood.

[fleetsidelarry]

and if one were to use carridge bolts, the countersunk relief for the bolt head could be a little smaller and you could just tack weld the washer to the sill.