Wiring for Engine

[Pro Performance]

My truck originally came with a smogged computer controlled 305 (quadrajet). I am now installing a 383 stroker without smog.

Does anybody know what wires will only be used? I know a lot will be obsolete now that I am not using the computer. What do most of you do with the wires through the firewall? Just cut and tape, or remove completely?

1) Ignition to HEI
2) Alternator
3) Starter
4) Gauges

[Pro Performance]

Anybody have any good info regarding this? I am sure it has been done before.
Thanks.

[irishman999]

everything should be the same, the only "computer controlled" plug would be the 4 wire plug that goes to the distributor. That plug can be completely eliminated, the box it plugs into a black box behind your glove box, it runs through the firewall on your passenger side.

[rfmaster]

Originally Posted by irishman999

everything should be the same, the only "computer controlled" plug would be the 4 wire plug that goes to the distributor. That plug can be completely eliminated, the box it plugs into a black box behind your glove box, it runs through the firewall on your passenger side.

That's not a complete list - CCC system also used a TPS, 02, MAP, KS, CTS in addition to DRP signal from distributor. The main actuator in the CCC system is the A/F mixture solenoid which is PWM by the ECM, spark advance (EST) is also under ECM control. TBI, which followed after CCC, was based on the CCC building blocks. Look for a harness coming just right of the AC unit inside of the half moon portion of the firewall. I do not have FSM, but along with CCC harness there could be AC control lines.

//RF

[Pro Performance]

Thanks for the help. I was thinking all that wiring can be removed also (the harness coming out just to the right of the AC housing).

I should be able to tap into the 4-plug ignition plug to run my new HEI setup, correct? Do you know what wire I tap into?

[rfmaster]

Originally Posted by Street3285

Thanks for the help. I was thinking all that wiring can be removed also (the harness coming out just to the right of the AC housing).

I should be able to tap into the 4-plug ignition plug to run my new HEI setup, correct? Do you know what wire I tap into?

Nope - you'll have to get a conventional HEI distributor since CCC specific dizzy does not have mechanical and a vacuum advance. In CCC setup ECM controls timing advance. You can get after market or OE pre CCC distributor with a vacuum can.

//RF

[Pro Performance]

I will be using an Accell HEI, but I was curious if I could tap off of the 4-plug connection to get the 12v going into it.

[rfmaster]

Originally Posted by Street3285

I will be using an Accell HEI, but I was curious if I could tap off of the 4-plug connection to get the 12v going into it.

The CCC four pin connector does not have +12 Volts. It only has the following ECM I/O signals:

Wire Color | Connector Pin | Function
Purple/Wht..| B | Distributor Reference pulse
White.........| A | EST
Tan...........| C | Bypass
Black/red....| D | REF_LOW

Power to distributor is provided via single large gauge (10AWG) pink wire that plugs into BAT terminal into the hat (next to the three wire jumper)

//RF

[Pro Performance]

Ok, perfect, thank you. That means I should be able to get rid of everything on that harness of wires coming out of the firewall there.

Thanks for the info.

[rfmaster]

Fallow up question - how are you going to get that 383 to pass by bi-annual smog check???

//RF

[benoit454]

Ok you guys lost me on the ccc crap, the esc dist. some of the old style have vac. adv. and all you have to do is cut 2 wires and splice them together then it's a regular hei dist. cheap and easy and works perfectly.

As for wires you need, alt., starter, dist. That's it.

Gauges, only if you use the factory style, I'd go with aftermarket be more accurate and reliable.

You usually have the battery ground to the block, one from block to frame, or make one, and one from motor to firewall or make one, it helps alot. Battery to starter, solenoid small wires, maybe 1-3 not sure. Then batt. for dist. and alt. wires, that's about it. If you do gauges you'll need the water temp one, and oil pressure, that's it. On these trucks I think it be best just yank the computer behind the dash with it's wires, remove it all intact, then seal up the hole in the firewall the wires went thru, or block it off.

[Pro Performance]

Originally Posted by rfmaster

Fallow up question - how are you going to get that 383 to pass by bi-annual smog check???

//RF

I have a house in Lake Havasu, AZ.... so I will be using that address and registering the truck in AZ.

[Pro Performance]

Originally Posted by benoit454

On these trucks I think it be best just yank the computer behind the dash with it's wires, remove it all intact, then seal up the hole in the firewall the wires went thru, or block it off.

Agreed. I will pull the whole thing and make a little block off plate.

[Pro Performance]

I am getting close to finishing my wiring for my engine. I did remove the complete computer and everything with it. My question now is:

I have the wire going to the starter solenoid, to start the engine. Then, have the battery cable going directly to the starter. How does power get back into the cab (meaning fuse block)?

I did change over to a 1-wire alternator, so that is just going to the same power terminal as the battery cable on the starter.

[rfmaster]

Originally Posted by Street3285

I am getting close to finishing my wiring for my engine. I did remove the complete computer and everything with it. My question now is:

I have the wire going to the starter solenoid, to start the engine. Then, have the battery cable going directly to the starter. How does power get back into the cab (meaning fuse block)?

I did change over to a 1-wire alternator, so that is just going to the same power terminal as the battery cable on the starter.

There should be a 10 AWG wire with a fuse link going from main starter stud to the firewall plug (orange usually)

//RF

[Pro Performance]

So that junction on the firewall (diamond shaped with 2 studs) is the main feed into the fuse block?

I thought that was the wire to engage the starter. So, I will have to move that from the solenoid stud, to the main start stud. Then, I will have to locate the ignition wire to engage the starter, correct?

Which according to this diagram is the purple wire.

[Pro Performance]

Just to follow up.... I did get everything working correctly, and it is the purple wire for the starter solenoid. At first I only had one of the big red wires going to the hot side of the starter, but it takes both of them being powered to work correctly.

Thanks for the help, and hopefully this thread may help someone else doing the same as me.

[coater]

Sounds like what I want to do when I finish my new engine build. Can you draw up some kind of diagram so I can see how it was done? That would help me alot,and maybe some others too.
Thanks