I'm starting to get frustrated

[harnalien]

I know the answers are here, but my brain is mush at this point regarding my swap. I am trying to nail down the fuel situation. I thought I had it figured out and decided on getting an '87 fuel tank with an internal pump and new sender. Then I panicked after I ordered the fuel tank because I started to think about my fuel gauge. I am keeping the stock dash from my '84 and will be running a 6.0 w/ a 700r4. Will the fuel gauge/sending unit from an '87 work together for the mechanical dash? I am seriously considering ditching the new tank idea and just going with an external walbro pump. From my understanding, I can use my stock fuel tank/sending unit, then use the walbro after with a filter/regulator depending on the fuel rail set up. This will be a cheaper option because I won't have to pay my shop to drop the tank and all that stuff. I will just have to make sure I keep a decent amount of fuel in the tank to avoid starvation issues. I have cancelled my fuel tank order until I figure this stuff out. I want this swap to go as smooth as possible and little stuff like this is what kept me from previously attempting the swap. Can someone help me get my mind right and back on track?

[BR3W CITY]

If its anything like the older trucks, the most you would have to do is change/add a resistor in line with the sending unit. IIRC the pre 70's trucks had 0-30 ohm, and the newer style was 0-90 ohm. Since it sounds like all the stuff your using is newer, the sending unit should be fine.

[Shon]

Fuel pump has nothing to do with fuel gauge, other than how fast it goes to E, LOL

[matthew20061]

Sounds like you should just stay with your original stock tank unless there is something wrong with it. Then run the inline walbro pump to your rail with regulator and return line back to the tank.

[RocketKing]

Unless I am mistaken you should not have starvation issues with the external pump.. Those issues arise with non baffled tanks with internal pumps. I will agree with matthew above. Stock tank, sending unit, external pump and filter/reg set up.
This depends on you motor being 2004 or newer as they have a returnless system. If older you should reference mr.rhino's "Silver Dollar" thread on his return system. You might want to look over this thread as well...

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...or-filter.html

[harnalien]

Thanks for the responses! I know this is simple stuff for some of you, so I appreciate you taking the time to offer advice. I will go with the external setup. I haven't gotten the engine yet, so I don't know if I'll need the corvette regulator/filter. I have been reading and have heard of people tapping the filler neck for the return line. I have dual tanks, but I'm only going to use one. So I may already have a line running back from the original smog stuff. My truck is in the paint shop, so I can't access it to take a look at the current setup. This will save me some coin from not having to pay the shop to drop the tank.

[OKGMC4]

The senders should have the same resistance so gauge should work. I ran an external pump on a TBI conversion in my 79 TA and can tell you they are REALLY LOUD. One advantage of running an in tank pump is to reduce noise. I didn't keep the car long after that but have heard that due to less heat the in tank pump will also last longer. I would consider a newer tank running a TPI pump in the sender for the higher pressure.

[OKGMC4]

Plus.. if it ever dies far from home wouldn't it be nice to get factory style parts that are easy to get at the parts store? OReillys can get a 91 camaro fuel pump quicker than a holley in line, and probably cheaper. I try to avoid to many special order aftermarket parts for that reason.

[Big Port Jimmy 6]

use the 87 up tank and meter, cooler pumps, more consistent fuel supply and a ready made return line. I can attest to the fact that the baffled tanks are a must. My crewcab had earlier tanks installed when it was shortened, and would stumble under braking with less than 1/4 tank. I am installing 2 new tanks with higher capacity pumps in my swap.
Jay

[Gordonr1973]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

The senders should have the same resistance so gauge should work. I ran an external pump on a TBI conversion in my 79 TA and can tell you they are REALLY LOUD. One advantage of running an in tank pump is to reduce noise. I didn't keep the car long after that but have heard that due to less heat the in tank pump will also last longer. I would consider a newer tank running a TPI pump in the sender for the higher pressure.

x2

I'm just putting my list together for my 6.0L swap, but I did buy the '87 tanks yesterday because I am scared about overheating the pumps so I'm going with in-tank pumps.

Here are some post to check out, might help:

Glock's Fred build: post# 470, 547, 552, 692, 920, 1334, 1373, 1551, 1539, 1556, 1845, 1854

Menace: 105, 159, 226, 271, 464, 510, 512, 525, 701, 762,

That should be the best ones I have taken notes on myself to get you through this stage.

Hope it helps!

[kSStamp0182]

i went with the intank pump for the heat issue as well for my 6.0. pump runs cooler, last longer. and i like to use GM parts. there are plenty of great aftermarket companies but oem quality is hard to beat.

[harnalien]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I spoke to the shop that is going to do the work and they are gonna let me know what the labor cost difference is between a tank swap and using an external pump. The best prices I found show that an external pump will only be about 40 bucks cheaper than a new tank, sending unit, and internal pump.

I just get overwhelmed when I don't know how to do some of these things. I have to realize there are people who do it every day. I just try and plan stuff to the nth degree, so when I get to something I can't figure out, I want to say screw it all. I'm sticking with it though, so wish me luck!

[jkade]

Originally Posted by harnalien

Thanks for the responses everyone. I spoke to the shop that is going to do the work and they are gonna let me know what the labor cost difference is between a tank swap and using an external pump. The best prices I found show that an external pump will only be about 40 bucks cheaper than a new tank, sending unit, and internal pump.

I just get overwhelmed when I don't know how to do some of these things. I have to realize there are people who do it every day. I just try and plan stuff to the nth degree, so when I get to something I can't figure out, I want to say screw it all. I'm sticking with it though, so wish me luck!

You should be able to get a walbro external for less than $120 to your door. That should be a lot less than the new tanks and sending unit. I would go with new tanks and intank pump if it were me though, you will thank yourself down the road.

[Clyde65]

Guys, are the Walbro externals noisey? I have a Pierburg and I can only hear it when it turns on before I start.

[harnalien]

Well I decided to go the internal route. I actually bought the pump and sending unit tonight for 151 bucks shipped! I will order the tank next week maybe. I will go ahead and pay the extra money to have my shop put it in. Once it's done, I will have no regrets. Knowing me, I'd probably regret not going internal, so I'll just do it from the start. This build is about doing what I want, which is what I didn't do on my last swap. It may take a little longer, but I want it done my way!

[matthew20061]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Guys, are the Walbro externals noisey? I have a Pierburg and I can only hear it when it turns on before I start.

I'm running one mounted in the rear under the bed and the only time you really hear it is when on turn the key to "ON" and it primes the fuel system then once the truck starts you can't even hear it over the engine noise and road noise. I think it matters mostly where you mount it, I can see it being really loud if you mounted it like under the cab or something but back under the bed is the perfect spot for it IMO.

[jkade]

I had one mounted to the frame under the cab of my 67 and it was pretty loud. I can hear the vortec pump in my blazer tank once you turn the key on but not running.

[kSStamp0182]

Originally Posted by harnalien

Well I decided to go the internal route. I actually bought the pump and sending unit tonight for 151 bucks shipped! I will order the tank next week maybe. I will go ahead and pay the extra money to have my shop put it in. Once it's done, I will have no regrets. Knowing me, I'd probably regret not going internal, so I'll just do it from the start. This build is about doing what I want, which is what I didn't do on my last swap. It may take a little longer, but I want it done my way!

make sure you they use FI clamps!

[harnalien]

Originally Posted by kSStamp0182

make sure you they use FI clamps!

Oh yeah, thanks! I have heard the horror stories, lol!
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