My Big Block Build (462)

[zr1pat]

I Just picked up a 454 rebuilt short block. The pistons are flat tops with .040 stamp on them. The crank is stock. This is my first big block built. This engine is for my 65 Suburban. It needs to be a daily driver on pump gas but with some get up and go. It would be nice to get about 500 to 550 hp range. What cam, heads, intake and carb should i use.

Thanks Pat.

[ripdog28]

Hyd cam 540+ lift, stock heads, a duel plane intake and a 850 double pumper (Holley/QFT) easy 500.

[vin63]

Originally Posted by zr1pat

I Just picked up a 454 rebuilt short block. The pistons are flat tops with .040 stamp on them. The crank is stock. This is my first big block built. This engine is for my 65 Suburban. It needs to be a daily driver on pump gas but with some get up and go. It would be nice to get about 500 to 550 hp range. What cam, heads, intake and carb should i use.

Thanks Pat.

I recently finished a Pontiac 462 ci build, but it sounds like your engine performance objectives are relatively close to mine. My questions to you would be, what RPM range do you plan on spending the most time at and what RPM are you looking to reach that 500-550 hp mark? The reason I ask is because I built my engine to try and make peak torque by 4000 rpm and peak HP around 5000 rpm, since I don't plan on spending much time above 4500 rpm with 3.70 gears and an OD transmission. Here is my dyno sheet:



I'm running a cam with around .530 lift and a 750 cfm carb. But, specifics for your application will depend on what your rpm goals are.

[oldschool53_BBC]

DD BBC on pump gas making 500HP can easily be done just a matter of understanding that you will be into the "pump gas" alot. BBC chevy loves gas.

would find a decent set of stock oval port heads with a nice hydraulic cam stay under 230 on duration at 50 or you will run into needing a stall converter and transmision heat issues on that tank. I would actually look for a set of late model peanut heads and use a vacuum seconday carb. (Holley square flange maybe 770 street avenger) should be plenty if rpms are <6200.

Talk to some various engine gurus and you will find varied opinions but from experience ..use the oval port heads and keep the cam duration below 230.

camshafts and carbs are very often mis-understood and from the thousands of dollars I have wasted over the years bigger is not better on the daily driver unless it is a high revin tow,

Thats my two cents ..

good luck and talk to some people that have been around and built some engines...

here is my last build its around 550 HP and is a 7200 rpm BBC

[zr1pat]

Thanks Old School and Vin. This is great info. I am thinking of using a set of Pro Comp Alum oval port heads and a Extreme 274 cam. I think I may rethink the cam.

[djracer]

I would look for a head that will give you a bump in compression. A flat top piston and a 119 head will be less than 8 to 1 compression ratio.

[68_chop_top]

True true your flat top pistons have got you with 8 - 1 compression and will be a real slug. Cam and heads cannot make up the difference. Wished you could replace them pistons with some dome around 18cc then a ROLLER cam around 274 with peanut port heads will give you the pop. Use a roller cam in a bbc otherwise you stand a very real possibility of chewing up a flat tappet cam on break in.

[ripdog28]

I have a HYD FT cam and FT cams were used for decades before the 90's without problems. My cam RPM's at 5600 and im still over 550HP/TQ low in the RPM's.

[68_chop_top]

I'm not saying it can't be done but the oil we have today is not the same as it was years ago. There are many threads that talk about the poor quality oil used today and special methods to break in FT cams. With roller cams there is no break in. It just reduces the odds of cam failure during initial break in. Probably the reason all the new motors are roller cams.

[zr1pat]

Thanks Guys for the great info. With the flat top piston at TDC, what is the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the block. I rotated the block and mine looks to be about a 1/16 th. or less.

[oldschool53_BBC]

thats gonna kill the compression, you can compensate but cutting down a set of peanuts .0012" or so..just an idea

[Captainfab]

You will need to get an exact measurement using a dial indicator. Then with that info someone here can recommend what step to make next to try and get to the optimum quench distance.

Originally Posted by zr1pat

Thanks Guys for the great info. With the flat top piston at TDC, what is the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the block. I rotated the block and mine looks to be about a 1/16 th. or less.

[69trk]

put a turbo on it

[ripdog28]

Originally Posted by 69trk

put a turbo on it

You can find some 144/174 blowers cheap all over also.

[bigsnookmaster]

The blower idea is a good one, if the budget allows. You could build a very tame engine that makes real good power and is real driveable.

[zr1pat]

I had a real good look at the pistons and the marking on the inside says B-576, I think these are Badger pistons? I to have been thinking on the blower idea. At the moment I am dealing on a set of 781 casting heads for $250. They have been rebuilt and have had very little use since. The owner replace them with a set of Alum ones. How would these heads (781) work on this engine if it was a blower motor?

Thanks for all the input Guys.

[djracer]

That would be a good head and a good deal. A blower would be a good idea to help with the weak compression.

[ripdog28]

Im with Dj. The good thing about forced induction is the blower makes the head look bigger then it is

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[zr1pat]

On the hunt for a blower set up, let me know if you know of any?


Thanks

[zr1pat]

Purchased the 781 castings. The heads arrived today and look fantastic.