Rust removal

[astjohn]

I started striping the frame this weekend for my 53 and found some areas that are pitted pretty bad. What would be the best way to clean these areas up? I am avoiding grinding it smooth for fear of removing too much material. Ideas?

[Kim57]

I knotted wire wheel on a 4-1/2 inch angle grinder should make short work of rust on your frame.
Kim

[astjohn]

Did that, and your right it does come off quick. It is what I am finding under the rust scale that I need to address, areas that the rust has pitted the metal. I would like to get it fairly smooth before painting.

[Kim57]

If your just going to paint you should be able to use body filler.
I would hit it with some epoxy primer and then filler another coat of primer and then paint.
That's what I'm doing to mine when I get to that point.
Kim

[52 Rat]

The only way I have found to totally remove the rust is to sand or media blast the frame. You will need a healthy two stage air compressor to keep a sand blaster working efficiently.

[plummen]

pictures?

[52 Rat]

Originally Posted by plummen

pictures?

These are a few photo showing the area of the frame I sandblasted before installing the Heidts IFS. You can see that the blasting cleans all of the rust off and leaves a raw or bare steel finish. I am almost finished with the cab and will be sandblasting the remainder of the frame this spring. Keep in mind the frame will flash rust very fast after the sandblasting. You can see where the flash is starting in the last photo. High humidity, sweat, ect. will accelerate this process. I was not concerned with the flash rust because I will be going back over this area.

[astjohn]

You can see in the pictures here, after round 1 with the knotted wire wheel that the metal is pitted. Would it be ok to just grind this smooth?

[bajabob]

astjohn
I would tend to agree with Kim57. I had some areas similar but not as bad on my frame which was sandblasted and powder coated. The coating looks awesome but you can clearly see the imperfections in the frame. If I was looking for a "smooth" look, I would do the primer, filler, primer, filler, more primer route... just my opinion...

[bajabob]

that front end looks sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet............

[Kim57]

I would take a flapper disc to a small area on it and see what it takes to get rid of the rust.
You can get them in 80 and 120 grit. They don't take a lot of the metal off and may do the trick.
Kim

[plummen]

id sand blast it then coat the frame rails with some of that all metal filler,then epoxy primer the hell out of it.
rust neutralizer and por15 might be an easier option depending on desired finish

[56hotrodred]

All of the above prep work sounds good.

After that this sounds like a good candidate for POR 15 with its filler. Check out their web site.

I am preparing my frame which has a bit of pitting for POR 15. Follow all instructions when preparing metal, applying filler, apply POR 15 with foam brush, top coat it to protect from UV and it is impervious to all but brake fluid I hear...

I think for those of us who are low buck "do-it-yourselfers" POR 15 is a good way to go. Much easier to re-finish when plans change as opposed to powder coating for example. I saw a guy beat on a treated surface with a big ball peen hammer and nothing.

I am also going to do my inner fenders, bottom and maybe inside of cab, rad support and probably more with it.

Eastwood also has many good products for frames.

56hotrodred

[dicer]

I would not grind off metal, less metal means less strength. Better to media blast and filler prime or prime and filler deal.

[astjohn]

Thank you all for your input. I think I need to clean it and POR it.

[hotrod1]

We had some areas that were bad (under the spring perch) and eroded the metal quite a bit. Did not feel comfortable just leaving it. Wanted to make it very strong so welded a plate over it to make sure.

[astjohn]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

We had some areas that were bad (under the spring perch) and eroded the metal quite a bit. Did not feel comfortable just leaving it. Wanted to make it very strong so welded a plate over it to make sure.

Thanks for the pic, I do have a couple spots, 1 rusted completely through that I will have to address.

[Panelman55]

I'd apply a light coat of PHOSPHORIC ACID to the metal after the wire brush. Rinse with clean water. Dry with comperssed air or hot air. Then etch prime or por 15. Marine Clean uses PHOSPHORIC ACID as a base. PHOSPHORIC ACID is easy to get from a hardware store in a gallon jug for about $25.00 or so. Follow the directions. I've used it for years with good results, and I haven't killed myself yet.


Panelman55

[52 Rat]

Originally Posted by Panelman55

I'd apply a light coat of PHOSPHORIC ACID to the metal after the wire brush. Rinse with clean water. Dry with comperssed air or hot air. Then etch prime or por 15. Marine Clean uses PHOSPHORIC ACID as a base. PHOSPHORIC ACID is easy to get from a hardware store in a gallon jug for about $25.00 or so. Follow the directions. I've used it for years with good results, and I haven't killed myself yet.


Panelman55

POR 15 recommends using phosphoric acid before applying the POR 15 paint. POR offers this acid in a convenient spray bottle. I have used it and it work great.