Follow up to my brake light switch question

[samdjr74]

Hi All,

I'm just wondering if going with a mechanical brake light switch is a better option? I need this for the TC lock up as well so I'm going to need a 4 contact switch. After reading up on this it sounds like the pressure switches leave a lot to be desired. Has anyone mounted a mechanical switch in their 2nd series? If so got any pictures? If the pressure switch is a popular choice any one have any feed back on it?

Thanks,
Sam

[samdjr74]

anyone?

[OrrieG]

on my old rigs i have always used the existing mechanical switches. easier to diagnose when they go bad and don't need to bleed the brakes when replaced.
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[mylow53]

old school if not original. still working in the old girl!!!
GT

[samdjr74]

Thanks guys, does anyone have any pictures of these installed? I'm having a hard time visioning how this will mount in my 56.

Thanks,
Sam

[MrDude_1]

Originally Posted by samdjr74

Thanks guys, does anyone have any pictures of these installed? I'm having a hard time visioning how this will mount in my 56.

Thanks,
Sam

Does your brake pedal mount under the dash or under the floor?

[mr48chev]

I've got a pressure switch in the line on the truck now but am going back to a mechanical switch on the 48 during the rebuild.
If you have swing pedals with a firewall mounted master cylinder it should be easy to mount a bracket for a later model 4 pin switch an a tab on the pedal arm to activate it.

Floor mounted would be a little harder but can be done.

[samdjr74]

I'm running a CPP firewall mount MC with the bracket that replaces the stock dash bracket and the pedal hanging down from the bracket assembly

Originally Posted by MrDude_1

Does your brake pedal mount under the dash or under the floor?

[samdjr74]

All of the mechanical ones I've seen so far show the units mounted to a floor mount style MC so at least this is good news for me.

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I've got a pressure switch in the line on the truck now but am going back to a mechanical switch on the 48 during the rebuild.
If you have swing pedals with a firewall mounted master cylinder it should be easy to mount a bracket for a later model 4 pin switch an a tab on the pedal arm to activate it.

Floor mounted would be a little harder but can be done.

[MrDude_1]

Originally Posted by samdjr74

I'm running a CPP firewall mount MC with the bracket that replaces the stock dash bracket and the pedal hanging down from the bracket assembly

awesome, that makes it much easier... because its not under the truck, it doesnt have to be weatherproof.

Just go snag a brake light switch off any modern car/truck.. i like the ones GM put on everything from the 80s to early 90s.. but any of them work.
just bend a 90* bracket to hold the switch infront of the pedal arm.

when the pedal is up, it pushes the switch in. and the lights stay off.. when you push the pedal down, the switch button goes out, and the lights come on.

for cruise, you put a second switch right next to it... you may need to put a small bar or tab across the pedal arm so its wide enough to hit two switches...
Or get a 2 circuit switch.

if you get the one GM put on their cars, it pushes in a grommet with a ratchet action.. so you can easily mount it in place.

[samdjr74]

Ok, now I get it, so with the pedal in the normal postion, not depressed the switch circuit is actually open and when you despress the pedal the switch button releases or opens which in turn closes the circuit, correct?

The ones I've seen listed for GM with the 4 terminals look like the brake/cruise control, do you think this would work as a break/torque convertor lock up switch?

Originally Posted by MrDude_1

awesome, that makes it much easier... because its not under the truck, it doesnt have to be weatherproof.

Just go snag a brake light switch off any modern car/truck.. i like the ones GM put on everything from the 80s to early 90s.. but any of them work.
just bend a 90* bracket to hold the switch infront of the pedal arm.

when the pedal is up, it pushes the switch in. and the lights stay off.. when you push the pedal down, the switch button goes out, and the lights come on.

for cruise, you put a second switch right next to it... you may need to put a small bar or tab across the pedal arm so its wide enough to hit two switches...
Or get a 2 circuit switch.

if you get the one GM put on their cars, it pushes in a grommet with a ratchet action.. so you can easily mount it in place.

[MrDude_1]

Originally Posted by samdjr74

Ok, now I get it, so with the pedal in the normal postion, not depressed the switch circuit is actually open and when you despress the pedal the switch button releases or opens which in turn closes the circuit, correct?

correct.

Originally Posted by samdjr74

The ones I've seen listed for GM with the 4 terminals look like the brake/cruise control, do you think this would work as a break/torque convertor lock up switch?

for the brake switch, yes.
I dont know what controller you're using for the torque converter lockup, but its probably exactly what it needs. almost every brake switch works the same, doesnt matter if its kia, honda, bmw, or GM... so i would expect any converter lockup circuit to expect the same from the switch.

[samdjr74]

I haven't purchased the TC lock up yet but I'm guessing they all work in the same fashion. Most of them come with a replacement pressure switch with 4 leads on it. I would assume that if a mechincal switch with brake and cruise control works in the same way it should work for my configuration as well.

Originally Posted by MrDude_1

correct.



for the brake switch, yes.
I dont know what controller you're using for the torque converter lockup, but its probably exactly what it needs. almost every brake switch works the same, doesnt matter if its kia, honda, bmw, or GM... so i would expect any converter lockup circuit to expect the same from the switch.