M1009 with LQ9

[jkade]

Originally Posted by LiveAnimals

Did you reposition the axles with the zero rates? Do you have a side shot of the CUCV.
Posted via Mobile Device

The front is in the stock location but I did move the rear back 1". I will try and get a side shot the next time I get it out.

[jkade]

My boss who is also my best friend has bought a 85 2500 4x4 suburban that we are fixing to transplant a lq4 and 4l80e in. This is going to be his daily driver so we are gonna do it up nice. Heck we are taking 2 and gonna make one out of it. He bought a 88 about a month ago that had a nice interior but it has some pretty bad rust issues, good news is that he is gonna let me have the 3:73 axle's to go in my 86 k10 so I can get rid of the 3:08's. I am keeping an eye out for a 5.3 to go in it so I have several ls swaps in the future.

I am gonna use the stock truck harness on his suburban as I have read that it is real easy so if anyone has done a truck harness please chime in.

[Prerunner1982]

In the 2nd pic in your first post... is the frame cracked on the left side (left side of picture?)... looks like it is. Hope you welded that up.

Good looking rig!

[MTCK]

I think you're seeing the shackle hanger. I did a double take too.

[LiveAnimals]

What springs are up front?
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[jkade]

Originally Posted by Prerunner1982

In the 2nd pic in your first post... is the frame cracked on the left side (left side of picture?)... looks like it is. Hope you welded that up.

Good looking rig!

I don't see what you are talking about, probably dirt

[jkade]

Originally Posted by LiveAnimals

What springs are up front?
Posted via Mobile Device

Not sure what brand they are, bought the lift used about 10 years ago from a buddy so I have no idea. I am pretty sure they are 4 inch springs.

[LiveAnimals]

I really like the stance with the 37s and H1s. How's the pinion angle after the shackle flip? Do the 37s clear the front ok? Sorry for so many questions I'm just tryin to figure out how exactly I want to lift my suburban.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jkade]

Originally Posted by LiveAnimals

I really like the stance with the 37s and H1s. How's the pinion angle after the shackle flip? Do the 37s clear the front ok? Sorry for so many questions I'm just tryin to figure out how exactly I want to lift my suburban.
Posted via Mobile Device

No problem.... The pinion is pretty much pointing towards the output but I have to get a new drive shaft at some point and that is how Denny's Drive Shaft told me it needed to be for the double cardin shaft that I am going to. The 37's will get in the fender at full lock fully flexed out. Those tires are really on 36" tall so don't belive the what goodyear says.

[Prerunner1982]

Originally Posted by jkade

I don't see what you are talking about, probably dirt

Here I isolated it...

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Prerunner1982

Here I isolated it...

I see now, that is the hanger and a lot of dirt

[jkade]

Originally Posted by LiveAnimals

Did you reposition the axles with the zero rates? Do you have a side shot of the CUCV.
Posted via Mobile Device

Here is a crappy cell pic.

[y5mgisi]

Drool!!!!

[Mr. 250r]

just wondering what did you do with radiator stock or upgrade unless and i missed that part and do you know if the stock exhaust manifolds fit or not
Posted via Mobile Device

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Mr. 250r

just wondering what did you do with radiator stock or upgrade unless and i missed that part and do you know if the stock exhaust manifolds fit or not
Posted via Mobile Device

It is a new stock radiator from Advance Auto for a 350 blazer, I think it cost me $113. I am not sure if the stock manifolds will fit or not but I would think they would.

[1976K5CHALET]

Hope u don't mind me asking alot of questions...lol.
My 79 that looks like its part cucv...is in need of a
repower. Lets just say the tired 350 tbi with the
whipple experiment went south. Anyways we have a
late model 6.0...thinkin 06-7ish thats is going in.
I can see i need motor mount plates...something about
a spacer for the flywheel to bolt up to the 700R4. I have
also heard i should buy a front xmember from pacific
fab as my ORD isn't going to work anymore...
Is that about it to get her bolted in place?

BTW...i have a M1009 cold weather cover sitting in the
garage that needs a home...

DW

[jkade]

Originally Posted by 1976K5CHALET

Hope u don't mind me asking alot of questions...lol.
My 79 that looks like its part cucv...is in need of a
repower. Lets just say the tired 350 tbi with the
whipple experiment went south. Anyways we have a
late model 6.0...thinkin 06-7ish thats is going in.
I can see i need motor mount plates...something about
a spacer for the flywheel to bolt up to the 700R4. I have
also heard i should buy a front xmember from pacific
fab as my ORD isn't going to work anymore...
Is that about it to get her bolted in place?

BTW...i have a M1009 cold weather cover sitting in the
garage that needs a home...

DW

I would get the dirty dingo motor mount plates that are made for a 73-91, that is what we bought for the suburban we are in the process of putting a LQ4 in. If your motor had a 4l80E behind it you shouldn't need the flexplate and spacer it should already have it. If it doesn't I can give you the part # and you can get the flexplate, spacer, and bolts from gm parts direct for less than $60 shipped to your door. I would try your xmember before I bought one, the motor is going to have to sit as far back as possible more than likely so your might work.

[1976K5CHALET]

I was thinking for right now to get her running again i'd stick with the 700R4 i have in her...and upgrade to a 4L80E/Atlas combo in the future. Currently she has a Phx Trans built 700R4 with an ORD doubler Tcase set up.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by 1976K5CHALET

I was thinking for right now to get her running again i'd stick with the 700R4 i have in her...and upgrade to a 4L80E/Atlas combo in the future. Currently she has a Phx Trans built 700R4 with an ORD doubler Tcase set up.

What I was saying is if your 6.0 had a 4l80e behind it then your 700r4 should work. You will just have to hog out the converter holes so the holes on the flexplate match the holes on your converter. What to look for is if your 6.0 flexplate is dished or not, if it is dished and already has the spacer you will be fine. The flexplates that are not dished are pretty much flat and do not have the spacer. Hope this makes sense

[1976K5CHALET]

Yes...it makes sense. Gotta put my thinking cap on when i am on days off from the drill rig...lol. I'll hit my buds shop this afternoon and take a peek.

What i really need is a rot free 90-91 K5 minus engine-trans-xfer so i can start over my way and top it off with a chalet camper and call it good.

Thanx for the info.

DW

[1976K5CHALET]

Also...DBW or cable operated skinny pedal. If cable...how did u make that work....ie Lokar?

[1976K5CHALET]

My everlasting project 79 K5 testbed...lol.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by 1976K5CHALET

Also...DBW or cable operated skinny pedal. If cable...how did u make that work....ie Lokar?

Mine is drive by cable and I used a cable from a 99 up truck. I think mine came from a 01 reg cab with the 4.8. The cable is pretty much a direct swap.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by 1976K5CHALET

My everlasting project 79 K5 testbed...lol.

Cool looking rig!!! You will love the 6.0!!

[jkade]

Update.... Up until last week I have been running with only 70% throttle avaliable. Wow, what a difference 30% more throttle makes. If you are making much over stock HP get a 255lph pump, I went with the pump out of a 350vortec truck and it is leaning out above 4k rpm and now I have to replace the pump so that is just a fyi and I should have know better.