1960-66

[tomatocity]

Trying to decide what year truck to build and I want to know the differences to avoid build problems. So I am looking for a list of the differences of 1960-66 C-10.
Brakes
Suspension
Body
Grills
Bumpers
Wheels
Lugs
Engines
Glass
Beds
Air Conditioning

This will be the truck I drive till I can no longer drive so it will be built correctly and without compromise.

The only parts I have is an engine I built in 1998 and never started and the radio block off plate from my grandfathers 1964 C-10.

[jocko]

here's my shot at it... others know much more than I do though! so hopefully they will chime in and add on (and correct my errors).

Brakes - all drum, all corners, every year - if you want disks, it's an upgrade on your own with later year chev parts or aftermarket kit upgrades, all fairly easily done. Power drums were available, but apparently not very common.

Suspension - big difference is post-62. 60-62 had torsion bar susp / 63-66 had coil over fronts with control arms, etc - a bit more modern and parts are slightly less expensive - however, even more popular is swapping on a 70's front crossmember as a whole to include the disk brakes, etc etc.

Body/Grilles/Glass: 60-63 had the knee knocker cab (i.e. wraparound windshield) where 64-66 had the aft leaning A-pillar and differtent windshield. Big and small back windows available all years - although in my searches, seems a little less common in the early years. Also note that the dash changed completely with this styling change also (60-63 the same, 64-66 the same). That's the major noticeable thing on the body - other than that, it's mostly trim/side molding/grille changes. Grilles were different in 60, 61, 62, 63, and 64-66 were common. 63 is a very popular grille - and I like the 64-66 grilles, but they are not uncommon at all. 60-61 hoods were the same (with different inserts in the air sucker holes - love 'em!). 62-66 hoods were the same.

Wheels/lugs were all 15x5.5 (or 6) with 6 lugx5.5 circle on C10. C30 was 8 lug. Sorry I don't remember if C20 had 6 or 8 lug. I think it was 8, but I'm sure one of the 3/4 ton guys will correct me if I gooned that. 5 lug conversion is popular and axle kits are available from several sources - something to think about if your wheel choice is only available in 5 lug, etc.

Engines - I6 or V8. 283 was only V8 until 66 where you could order 283 or 327. So, an original 327 is fairly rare - single year only and the 283 was still available in 66, so not everyone opted for the 327. Sweet motor though....

Beds. Long n Short fleetsides and Long and Short stepsides. That comes down to taste, so not even gonna go into what I think looks best - everyone loves what they have, so it really is whatever you like. Personally, I'm a fleetside nut, and the shorter the better. Which is odd, because all my previous trucks have been long bed by choice (all non-60-66's too...) but for 60-66, it just looks great as shortbed to me. Again, just personal pref. For 4WD, I prefer long beds. And I do like long fleets anyway.

A/C - not sure the first year it was offered, but it's pretty rare.

So, with all that, sounds like you're looking for where to start. Here's the questions I'd ask myself if I were still looking for one:

1. What do I want to do with it? (pleasure/work/groceries)?
2. What style do I like the best (short/long/fleet/step)?
3. What "KIND" of truck - or "style" I guess... (slammed, hot rod, stocker, concourse resto, modern conveniences in a stock look, etc)
3. Am I hard over on a V8 or an I6?
4. You mention you want to build it correctly - are you talking nut n bold restoration or correctly as in modern driving conveniences? (i.e. power steering, modern susp, a/c, etc etc).
5. I hate to say it - but to me, tire/wheel choice is pretty important - it can make or break a truck for me. If you know EXACTLY what wheel/tire combo you want - it will drive the rest of your decisions. Like lowering, paint, etc. Wide Whites lend themselves to slammed trucks or at least lowered somewhat. I cant say I can ever recall seeing a wide whitewall truck at stock ride height (but I'm sure someone will post one now...) but my point is that some things just look right together. Having said that - I am NOT saying you need WWWs to make a lowered truck look right - I think they look awesome lowered with skinny whites, or my favorite, plain ol balckwalls. In fact, that is my favorite for almost any truck - plain steelies with balckwalls - maybe a poverty cap to boot. (so, this goes back to the point - wheels drive what you look for and do with the truck - if you want stock steelies, you are limited to 6 lug and non-disk brakes (old steelies are not disk brake compatible). OR -you can track down some mid-70's steelies and they will fit over disks - OR you can convert to 5 lug and have other steelie options for drums or disks. Bottom line - where there's a will, there's a way definitely applies here. For some reason, I haven't taken the lowering plunge yet - even though I like the looks of them. It's good to know if you want to lower when you purchase the truck - that might lead you to looking for a 63-66 for the ease of lowering their susp as compared to a 60-62 torsion bar setup, etc.

So, my dream truck - a little blue/white 2-tone 66 short fleet.
Yours, only you can decide! I know, I'm not much help. But maye there was one kernel of worthwhile info in there. Those are the questions I asked myself - and once you answer them all honestly to yourself, it narrows down your search dramatically, then you can start surfin ebay and the millions of ads out there online and in print for your dream truck. Can't wait to see it!

[jonzcustomshop]

joko has it, c 20 is 8 lug.
imo the 64-66 is probably easier to build due to more restoration parts available for those years.

people have mentioned how nice the ride is on the torsion bar 60-62, but suspension parts are htf and expensive.

since the frames changed in 63 there is almost no interchange from 60-62, and 63-66 on the suspension parts...

so if you get a 61 parts truck for a 66, about the only real bolt on stuff you will have is the front sheetmetal, and the seat!

the boxes mount different and the front of the cab mounts different because of the X frame on the 60-62.

however boxes and cabs can be made to work with a little fabrication.

60-62 had a hydraulic clutch.
the clutch master cylinder is part of the brake master cylinder.
the 63 has a mechanical clutch and a single master cylinder that mounts differently than the 64-66 master cylinder.

60-62 used a 235 6 cylinder, which has pretty much no interchange with the 63-66 230/250(66)/292.

60-62 the radiator bolts to the core suport, 63-66 it is clamped top and bottom to the core support and frame.

60-62 front bumper , the bolt holes are closer together (top to bottom) than the 63-66
60-62 rear bumper , the holes are farther apart (side to side) than 63- 66, to accomodate the wider frame. this goes for the step bumpers too, the brackets are farther apart.

the gmc's came with a V6, rarely they would have an inline 6, indicated by an "I" at the beginning of the vin.

gmc the grille was the same 60-66

gmc 63-66 had a leaf spring rear on all models.

I have not heard of "factory" air for a 60-63, they did have an option , for a cool pack under dash unit.
64-66 did have a in dash air conditioning system

[Slow Build]

Here is a thread on the subject.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=351107

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by tomatocity

Trying to decide what year truck to build and I want to know the differences to avoid build problems. So I am looking for a list of the differences of 1960-66 C-10.
Brakes
Suspension
Body
Grills
Bumpers
Wheels
Lugs
Engines
Glass
Beds
Air Conditioning

This will be the truck I drive till I can no longer drive so it will be built correctly and without compromise.

The only parts I have is an engine I built in 1998 and never started and the radio block off plate from my grandfathers 1964 C-10.

Hey when you get one you`ll have to join in with the locals here...