4 Link for 1970 C10

[Spot1984]

I got a 383 stroker pushing 648 hp and a two stage nos system with transbrake TH400. It's lowered 4/6. I want to put in a 4 link and tighten that rear end up. Is there a back half kit? I need some pics and info guys. I'm tired of all these imports around here and am ready to blow there doors off....if I can hook up! I want to street strip this thing. Factory 12 bolt c clip eliminators. Pry gonna drop ford 9 inch in it. Thanks!

[watahyahknow]

check out porterbuild

[cableguy0]

Theres a lot of people going real fast on the stock truck arms and the proper spring setup. Theres no really a need to backhalf a 67-72 it already has a killer setup as it is. You can make it hook great rather cheaply.

[Super73]

I think you will be opening yourself up to more headaches than it is worth.

Do you know how to properly set up a 4-link? If not you will be pulling your hair out with it.

Make adjustable lower brackets for the truck arms and move the front mounting point down as far as you can to get more squat in it for the unprepped track Store a bunch of energy up front with the longest lightest spring you possibly can use (your lowered springs have waaayyyy to much spring rate and too short for weight transfer). Get some shocks both for the front and rear that are adjustable. That set up will allow you to hook in the dirt.

Put a real tire on it.

[watahyahknow]

the truckarms do verry whell actually , maibe spent some extra cash on the custom ford rearaxle good adjustable shocks and a watts link
still go look at porterbuilds website for most of those things

[Hottrucks]

subscribed......I can't get mine to hook either....even with the Mickey Thompsons on it...I know not a great tire but stock tires are a joke even @ 35 mph.....

[PGSigns]

If you want to take the time to learn a fourlink they work real good. I have done several cars with the S&W Racecars rear clip and it is a good package. It is a lot of work to put one together and you need to have a cage in the truck to tie it all in so it works like it should. Shock tuning also comes into play with a four ling and a good set of double adjustables is mandatory if you want to get the most out of it. Here is a pic of a Chevy 2 I built about 10 years ago for a friend of mine. Was built as a street car and weighs 3200. 4link and arms small block and a turbo 350.
Jimmy

[watahyahknow]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=151718
it does the same thing but with truckarms

[PGSigns]

The problem with the truck arms is that they only allow the adjustment of the instant center height and not the length. It's just a long ladder bar. They do work but you just have one less tuning option.
Jimmy

[Super73]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

The problem with the truck arms is that they only allow the adjustment of the instant center height and not the length. It's just a long ladder bar. They do work but you just have one less tuning option.
Jimmy

This is an undisputable point. A 4-link can be set to have your ICG at x height but also move it forwards/backwards almost infinitly which comes in to tuning where your antisquat is and how the suspension is taking the load you are throwing at it. There is a clear advantage to a 4-link.

Another advantage if doing a back half is weight reduction, but that can also hurt you. It might skew you weight bias even worse than it is now. Then you might need to store even more energy up front to compansate for it.

Some of the problems you face with a 4-link:
Like PGsigns mentioned, install of one (it doesn't "need" a cage but it sure needs a full rear half adjustment)
You can spend hours and hours trying to get it right. (If you think throwing it in there and it is going to work perfect, you are dead wrong.)
Expensive in contrast to a modified stock trailing arms set up.
Depending on the rod ends you want to run, it will be noisy. (I think they are all clunky, and do you want that in a street driven truck?)
Ride could be less confy


Don't take this as I am trying to talk you out of a 4-link. They are awesome rear suspensions and I might even throw one in my truck someday when I build a full frame for it. (My road race car has a 3-link in it. Basically a 4 link but only one top link on the top of the axle housing). However, for your power level and intensions, I don't think you "need" one to make your truck work, you just need a better understanding of what works and how it works to make your truck work.

An example I will give you, when I first bought my truck, I did a 4/6 drop with CPP spindles and springs. The truck looked awesome but rode like garbage and had ZERO weight xfer. The front spring rate was 650lbs and like 12.75" long. You would hit a bump and really feel it bad, and driving on farm roads was lets just say, not fun. I changed springs to a Moroso 47140 which was 17.75" long but a 240lb rate. I acheived similar ride height (with in .25") and the truck drove like a dream. I could go over bumps and not have a ton of steering issues. The picture in my avtar tells you how they worked, the CPP 650lb springs would never have moved the front suspension like that.

[PGSigns]

One thing to look at is what is the long term goal for this truck. If you plan to just play on the street hook is something that is hard to find. If you plan to race it some then you need to look at the rules for what is required for roll bar or cage for the et you think it could run and build for a second faster than that. It is a never ending cycle of "gotta go faster" that it better to be prepared for. Getting anything to run fast is all based on how well you understand the physics involved and how well you plan you package of shocks springs and suspension and converter to get the most out of it.
Jimmy

[fastwillie 696969]

4 link that bad boy heres mine i had the frame narrowed in the middle so i can mount 31or 32 inch tires ,12 bolt narrowed and new axels from dutchman