Overheating question

[BillyDeluxe]

I believe the guys from U.S. Radiator don't ship to Germany. Bad news. I have to find somebody who is willing to purchase the radiator and is going to send it to me afterwards. The best bet is to send is as personal gift (e.g. for my birthday) because than I probably don't have to pay customs in Germany which is 20% (!) on top of the price plus VAT again 19%. These regulations suck guys!

[BillyDeluxe]

This is it! From Arkansas, bought 3 years ago.

[mikeesracing]

I would go with a two row aluminum. I am currently in Kuwait and I have no faith in four row radiators because they block to much air flow.

I struggled with a 88 mustang for years trying to keep it cool using a 4 core. I swopped the four core for a two core aluminum radiator from a 95 Mustang and could cruise at 120 MPH in in 120 degree heat and sit all day in traffic with the a/c on, and that was with a stroked 351W(408). It was amazing I could watch my temp gauge swing from 175 to 185 and back to 175 while cruising down the road (180 degree thermostat).

[BillyDeluxe]

ah! I have heard so much different things from aluminum radiators and to be honest not so much good things.

what do you thing guys? For what should I go, copper/brass 4row or aluminum 2row ??

cheers for your advice!
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[padresag]

most of these trucks have run quite efficiently for 40 something years with the same style of motors in them, same size. v8 eng takes a shroud. put the proper fan in the proper relationship to the shroud. the right stock capacity rad with proper coolant and the right pressure cap . why are you having a problem? there has to be a reason. what have you done or haven't done differently???????
ron

[BillyDeluxe]

Originally Posted by padresag

most of these trucks have run quite efficiently for 40 something years with the same style of motors in them, same size. v8 eng takes a shroud. put the proper fan in the proper relationship to the shroud. the right stock capacity rad with proper coolant and the right pressure cap . why are you having a problem? there has to be a reason. what have you done or haven't done differently???????
ron

hey Ron.
My engine is out of a 1980s C10 and it has been bored with bigger pistons and bigger intake valves. That's probably the reason why the temperature raises always when I get stuck in traffic during the summer months.

That's why I am searching a solution for my problem during the last years.
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[padresag]

not trying to be smart here. that is basically the same block that they came out with in 1955. guys have been modifying them ever since. that is not a reason really. is the eng in the stk location for a small block or is it sitting in the forward holes( i have already been through this above). you don't have a shroud.
the orig system was designed to use a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol and water which will raise the boiling point 18 degrees F and a 7lb pressure rad cap which will also raise the boiling point 3 degrees per lb pressure of the cap for a total of another 21 lbs which would give you a total of 251 degrees F before it will boil. newer vehicles have even smaller cooling capacities(smaller but more efficient rads) and how they have overcome this is to raise the boiling point of the coolant- higher pressure system; that last of which I know(and it may be higher now) was that the went to a system that would take a 15 lb cap( and that is quite a few years ago) and that would raise the boiling point to 275 degrees F. so a bigger rad can mean squat really. it is also that relation ship with airflow ans how efficient that you can make it. v8 engs in these trucks used a shroud and the fan was designed to be in a certain position to make that airflow work. if it is further forward in the shroud it is not going to work as efficient. if you can arrive at that relationship then perhaps you may have to go with an electric fan also to create that movement of air to make you cooling system efficient'
remember that bigger is just a figment of your imagination. your girlfriend puts up with you doesn't she?
ron

[Rich 5150 69]

Billy send us some more pics of Rad, fan, and shroud if you have one.... if your still running that alum blade fan chuck it and by a clutch -6 blade fan assembly from summit...

[RUSHNBOBO]

Originally Posted by padresag

the orig system was designed to use a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol and water which will raise the boiling point 18 degrees F and a 7lb pressure rad cap which will also raise the boiling point 3 degrees per lb pressure of the cap for a total of another 21 lbs which would give you a total of 251 degrees F before it will boil. newer vehicles have even smaller cooling capacities(smaller but more efficient rads) and how they have overcome this is to raise the boiling point of the coolant- higher pressure system; that last of which I know(and it may be higher now) was that the went to a system that would take a 15 lb cap( and that is quite a few years ago) and that would raise the boiling point to 275 degrees F. so a bigger rad can mean squat really. it is also that relation ship with airflow ans how efficient that you can make it. v8 engs in these
ron

"bigger radiator means squat" .....really?.....this is copied from Griffin radiators, they probably know what there talking about.

"Just like your engine, a radiator needs air to function. It's a water-to-air heat exchanger, so it requires air to flow past a sufficiently large network of tubes that contain flowing engine coolant. The tubes make contact with thin metal fins to further increase the surface area available for cooling. Of course, more surface area means that more of the coolant's heat can be dissipated. The ideal radiator, then, would be built from highly conductive metal with large diameter tubes and maximum tube-to-fin contact, and it would be able to pass air efficiently with minimal restriction. Copper-brass conducts heat considerably better than aluminum does. Bigger tubes and more fins increase surface area. So why don't we build a five-core copper-brass radiator with huge tubes and a bunch of cooling fins? The limitations are material strength, weight, and airflow."

If bigger radiators didn't cool better why do larger engines or air cond, equip vehicles always have larger radiators. Because larger coolant capacity and surface area always cool better. Just because you can keep the pressure up so it won't "boil over"
and run over 250 degrees doesn't mean that it should ever get that hot. The coolant temperature in all liquid cooled engines can and should run at the thermostat temp ..no more no less, if it doesn't something ain't right. Thats why there called thermostats. When was the last time you saw a new vehicle run over the "normal" temp ..in any conditions? Probably never...the factory extensively tests their systems in conditions that the average user wouldn't even come close to, otherwise they would have recalls all the time for blown head gaskets.

Why do older vehicles often have cooling issues? ...they weren't made that way...someone has probably swapped cooling system components and or engine size-type to something different than the original parts. They also very likely have the wrong combo of cooling components for the application: radiator coolant capacity (and surface area), pump flow, fan, shroud, and likely have poor maintenance.

[Rich 5150 69]

man somebody`s got their panties in a bunch...

[RUSHNBOBO]

Originally Posted by Rich 5150 69

man somebody`s got their panties in a bunch...

Don't remember sayin anything about your post....so why do you give a sh** there's plenty of other forums you can waste your comments on. You got an issue with my post or do you just not have anything else to do? Maybe he is your boyfriend? Let him comment on his own; there moderator/ administrator/ team leader wanna be

When someone going to post b.s. and contradict my post without anything to back it up ....I'll do two clicks on Google and quote from a real pro, not just make sh** up.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by RUSHNBOBO

Don't remember sayin anything about your post....so why do you give a sh** there's plenty of other forums you can waste your comments on. You got an issue with my post or do you just not have anything else to do? Maybe he is your boyfriend? Let him comment on his own; there moderator/ administrator/ team leader wanna be

When someone going to post b.s. and contradict my post without anything to back it up ....I'll do two clicks on Google and quote from a real pro, not just make sh** up.

it is to bad that you don't know but have to quote some article
grow up

[oldtrux]

hot topic!

[Clyde65]

I used a Champion aluminum 3core radiator I got from Reliable Radiator on evilbay. It cool my little 4.85 perfectly. oh, I also have twin 12" elec fans with it too.

[oldtrux]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

I used a Champion aluminum 3core radiator I got from Reliable Radiator on evilbay. It cool my little 4.85 perfectly. oh, I also have twin 12" elec fans with it too.

i also seen those on ebay,nice lookin units!that is what i plan on getting for mine when i'm ready!decent price too!

[gimmy 64]

if that guy would read his own article the last line says shroud-fan and all make a differance just like ron said. maybe he needs to go over to the hamb where every one has an attitude

[rideblue00]

wow, we need a flame board! lol

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Originally Posted by BillyDeluxe

Hi guys,
I have a bored 350 out of a 1980 C10 truck in my 65 short stepside. During the summer months I always have the same problems since a few years now.
Always when I get stuck in the traffic the engine starts overheating. As soon as you move again the temp in going down quickly.

What I've tried so far:
-I switched to the factory stock 3-row Harrison radiator (had something different before)
-switched thermostat serveral times (tried 160, 180 and high flow),
-switched from a 16" belt-driven fan to a 19" belt driven fan,
-tried with and without electrical fan (yes it's better with electrical fan switched on but I want to go without - it must be possible!)
-because of a blown head gasket I cleaned both heads last year and checked all the water channels - nothing suspicious
-I bought a stock shroud but the new 19" is too big for it, surprise!


What I would do next:
-I would buy a brand new radiator (maybe 4-row desert edition) - hopefully the brackets still fit for the bigger one
-I would give my current radiator away to let it clean and give it a new net
-I would swap the water pump to a Edelbrock or Stewart high-flow pump to get more flow into the system


What do you guys think - what would be your next steps?
Thanks
Andy

Andy,

Just a few questions.
Is the 1980 350 stock?
These were still Quadrajet Carb fed engines if I remember correctly.
The fuel / air mixture, timing, and spark all affect engine temperature.
What rpm range is your engine idling at?
When you fire your engine up from a cold start and let it warm up does it start to overheat or is it fine? You didn't mention it so it may not do that.
Are you using a automatic transmission?
You mentioned about the water pump and that can leave to overheating if its bad or leaking. I think in the later models chevy they had reverse flows on them.
You mentioned the blown head gasket. Did you do a leak-down test on her?
If you want to go without the electric fan you can use a Clutch Fan.
I'm using a clutch fan, old style fan shroud, and 180* thermostat with stock radiator. Never had problems.
When you are in traffic and start move again any hesitation?


Here are some links with some info that you can look over.
Some of it does'nt apply here but not bad info. They missed out on the automatic transmissions/torque converter/Lock up/Stalls and Transmission cooler stuff that can cause over engine heating as well if they are bad or not set right.

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/engine-overheating.htm
http://www.aa1car.com/library/overheat.htm

Also you can check the Engine & Drivetrain side of the Forums
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...splay.php?f=24

[Rich 5150 69]

Originally Posted by oldtrux

i also seen those on ebay,nice lookin units!that is what i plan on getting for mine when i'm ready!decent price too!

Champion aluminum 3 row radiator. http://stores.ebay.com/PERFORMANCE-COOLING
Thats what I installed in mine, $239 to the door....happy so far.

[RUSHNBOBO]

thats what you run ?........wow, wish I wer smrt lik u !!!! ebay alws has gret qualitie radiaters

[RUSHNBOBO]

Originally Posted by padresag

it is to bad that you don't know but have to quote some article
grow up

I do kno but yyrr quote was so full of shiite .....i figured i beter show sum real qoutes ..."smalerr radiators r better" ...fur shure. i knue that was wrng when i wer 12, sho me wer u fonud that info? did u hav to go to skol to com up with that ?

[padresag]

have you made it to 13 yet?

[RUSHNBOBO]

Originally Posted by padresag

have you made it to 13 yet?

Hey he's back: Mr. "radiator size doesn't mean squat" couldn't find anything to back that up have you ?.....let me know if you do, can't wait to see it, don't get yur panties all up in a bunch....I'd be embarrassed too if I said something so ignorant

[RUSHNBOBO]

Originally Posted by gimmy 64

if that guy would read his own article the last line says shroud-fan and all make a differance just like ron said. maybe he needs to go over to the hamb where every one has an attitude

Yea, just like Ron said .......Mr. "radiator size don't mean squat" ...cmon there gimmy 64 ....who's, "that guy"....are you talking about me? Just push the little quote button there on my post and show me what you don't agree with and if I'm wrong ....good for you, I'll be the first to correct or delete it.

Not quite sure what your talking about in this quote above, maybe you could expand on the shroud-fan reference in more detail, and we can get that corrected.

I'll check back tomorrow and we'll get this fixed for you... no quick reply, Quote MY POST and show ME the mistakes. Don't want anyone to be confused. Try and watch that attitude, don't want to send you to that hamb deal.

[Slow Build]

Unsubscribing.