Stock or S-10 frame? Please explain why use an S-10 frame..

[FarmerSid]

New here and have a lead on a 53 3100. Being here reading all I can. Couple questions... I see so many of these trucks done with an s-10 frame. I still don't see the plus of the s10 compared to just adding a mustang II front end to the stock frame. I'm in eastern Ontario, Canada and don't see any older S10's for sale very much and if I do, they are in the $2000 range. Then I would have an S10 body and 53 frame left over. The money I would have invested in a old S10 I could just invest in a IFS kit for the stock frame. Am I missing something? I'd be fine doing a build either way but need to know everything as to why to do a frame swap. I understand S10 parts are easy to get at parts stores an all but wouldn't the ones from a mustang II be as well?

Thanks for the help!

Sid

[ratrodmiller]

The best option if you have the factory frame is use it! That what ive done with my build factory frame i boxed the frame and added mustang ii kit from tci and put a tci 4 link in back , and i couldnt be happier. yes the s10 frame will work but there is alot of fabbing to do and it a heavier frame and bulky .
Anyways the s10 frames are for s10s yes i know yall i said it . but i perfer the factory frames ..my two cents

[54 jimmy]

well a lot of the mustang 2 stuff is special to that manufacture. i did the s10 swap because i was able to use a lot of parts from the s10 like prop valve master e brake, and other stuff to cut the cost down. i picked up my s10 for a $100.00. so it is all in the avalibility and cost of what you want and your budget will allow. i personally don't like the m2 suspension. then with the rear you will need to find a rear and decide if you want leafs or some type of link with your orignal frame. with the s10 you only have to swap to a 4x4 s10 rear to get the track width right and it's a bolt in swap no mods needed. hope this sheads some light on your questions. the main things is build it the way you want don't let other sway you one way or another.

[_Ogre]

i'm a firm believer of using the stock frame and modifying it.
i have a stock frame, boxed, mustII and an 86 trans am rearend flipped on stock springs in my 58

half the post for the ad trucks is how to do the s10 and once your done,
you have a high mileage s10 frame to rebuild the suspension on.

but that said; in the world of truckrodding, anything goes.

[FarmerSid]

Thanks for the replies. I don't plan on having it lowered so much that the frame hits the ground. Having the running boards 4-6" off the ground would be the stance I'm looking for. I will see if I can dig up a picture of the stance I'm looking for. There's so many nice builds on here it blows me away.

Oh ya! What does "AD" mean? I have seen this referenced to a bunch of times but don't understand.

[Kabwe]

1947-1955 1st series = Advanced Design Trucks (AD).

Its not true about the mustang 2 parts being special to a certain manufacturer. It may be true with custom IFS systems (such as a arms and stuff like that) but not the mustang 2. You can go to your local auto parts store and pick up rotors and calipers. All of the mustang 2 units I installed are using GM Metric Brake Caliper (most are using s10) and Granada style rotor/hub assemblies standard, and you can go high end with 12" cross drilled and slotted rotors and late model Corvette dual piston aluminum calipers. Most are using a t-bird rack and pinion.

[Atomsplitter]

Welcome to the forum Sid, I'm in Newcastle, Ontario.
How far appart are we?
You'll have to post up a few pictures of your truck, is it from the US (3100) or from Canada (1300)?
My truck has an original frame, MII and a Camaro rear end.
It sits low enough for me to be happy

[code4]

s10 for me because of money, handling horsepower, less fabrication. Fabbing the body to the s10 frame was easy to me, I'm doing my second one now

If I would have kept the orig frame it would require must II front end, a custom rear suspension to fit the 295 50 15 tires, and boxing the frame etc.

[sirwilliam]

My opinion, well this is a Chevy / GMC site. We all have GM trucks... WHY put F**d s**t under it? If you do, then your driving a Ford with a Gm motor. But like I said, "My Opinion" At least your starting with a Chevy

[57truckguy]

Sid my two cents.. Sticking with the orginal if in good condition will give you great body mounts and fender attachments and bed locations... and there are a ton of after market supension parts to had... Althought it will be a more labor intensive project to box the frame the like..

Going with an S10 gives you instant updated supension, upgrades very easy to get both in the Junkyards and online. But You will have to fabercate body mounts, fender mounts, bed mounts, figure wheel spacing, rewire for sure, but if you do it right it can and will be a solid truck with a long future of driveability at an efforabel price depending on how you do it. a friend of mine found an s15 with the v6, swaped in a v8 and only had to reflash the chip to get to fuel injection to work..something to think about. EFI is agreat way to go for a driver and we all want to drive em.

[S10Fan]

I'm very happy with the S-10 chassis under mine. If the original frame had been unmolested I probably would have used it. My OG frame had been hacked up so bad it was no longer safe. There are a lot of parts out in the world to modernize the old AD frames, mine was well beyond being saved.

[FarmerSid]

Thanks for the replies people! I appreciate it! Atomsplitter, I'm in the Napanee area. About an hour and a half east of you. I don't have the truck or seen any pictures yet. A co-workers uncle has it and a 47 Dodge truck. I don't know anything more than it's a 53 chev 1/2 ton truck. Body is said to be quite good and the truck is complete. I guess he's going to get all the details this weekend. Didn't realize the 3100 and 1300 thing. If anyone in my area knows of a truck for sale, let me know. If I had a choice, I'd like to find a 47 as that's the year my dad was born and it would be neat to see him driving it.

[Atomsplitter]

Sir William.
Do some research, the newer MII IFS is NOT from FORD. It is a generic term used to describe the geometry first used by ford under their Mustang/Pinto crap. The only MII IFS with actual ford parts are OEM crossmembers removed from a Ford or those "Economy" IFS kits and they use the narrow upper and lower a-arms. If you want to know why I know this it's because my truck came with an early heit's crossmember with the narrow OEM ford a-arms and strut rods.

FarmerSid,
I'm the same Atomsplitter on the Ontario Rodder forum that took the pictures of your new truck! Keep asking questions! The only thing I would warn you about is NOT taking someone's advice without confirming it first. There are alot of opinionated people on these sites that like to spout off like they are experts.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by sirwilliam

My opinion, well this is a Chevy / GMC site. We all have GM trucks... WHY put F**d s**t under it? If you do, then your driving a Ford with a Gm motor. But like I said, "My Opinion" At least your starting with a Chevy

That doesn't really fly in the real world as most "Mustang II" aftermarket suspensions don't have many if any Ford parts in them except those that use the Mustang II control arms and spindles. The only Ford parts on the MII front end on my 48 are the spindles and rack and pinion. Everything else if GM or fabricated and the ball joints are Mopar.

The Factory Ford stuff on MII suspension was pretty well overbuilt when it was built as they used a number of pieces including the upper ball joints from the rest of the line. The upper ball joint is the same that the Mark IV uses.

As far as the S-10 chassis it somewhat fits and in the past has been pretty cheap and sometimes free for hauling off before scrap prices drove the price of donor trucks up. The big issue is that they are real narrow in the track width and guys usually have to run spacers to get the wheels out where they want them.
The main plus is still that they are rather inexpensive as compared to and aftermarket crossmember and the rest of the suspension you need.

[wood1]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Thanks for the replies. I don't plan on having it lowered so much that the frame hits the ground. Having the running boards 4-6" off the ground would be the stance I'm looking for. I will see if I can dig up a picture of the stance I'm looking for. There's so many nice builds on here it blows me away.

Oh ya! What does "AD" mean? I have seen this referenced to a bunch of times but don't understand.

ADVANCE DESIGN (not Advanced) 1947 2nd Series - 1955 1st Series.

Keep stock frame - that's my vote

[dicer]

My vote is don't ruin something that can not be got new anymore. Once all the stock old frames are ruined by the back yard modifications. There won't be anymore for folks that want stock. I vote the S10 frame, do all the mods on it you want, and instead of all the fab work all ya got to do is fab a few mounting brackets here and there.

[skymangs]

I did the S10 frame for 2 reasons. Modern suspension, brakes, rear end gearing, etc. and I couldn't beat the cost. I gave $150 for my complete chassis. It came with e-brake pedal, master/booster, ebrake cables, brake lines, fuel tank, driveshaft, and a bunch of other things that I needed. Can't get all that stuff from a scrapyard anymore at anywhere near that price. S10 frame gives you a nice low stance on factory suspension (before drop spindles I was a 7.25" off the ground at the running boards) and any shop can align it with no issues. Having said all that, if I was to do it again, I would probably "clip" it with a G body or S10 front stub, and keep the rest of the frame (cab/fender/box alignment can be a real pain) Just my .02

[gsdave]

I am pretty new to this site and have found a lot of great information on here.
I am in the process of doing a 49 on an s10 chassis, I struggled with this exact same issue, the one thing I knew for sure I was not going to do was install a front clip to the original rear half.

Cost was the determining factor for me, unless you are a fabricator and have all the equipment allready, the mII and four link was going to cost in the $2500 range at least, and that is for the lower quality and generic parts.

I bought a running s10, parted out what I didnt need and still hve a couple hundred dollars worth of stuff left to sell, plus found the large front sway bar and the rear, and all of it is for free at this point. I still have the motor and trans on craigslist for $450.00. So the way I looked at it was I starting out $2500 ahead on this project.

[solidaxel]

I am sure budget and skill have a lot to do with the build.

Tools and raw material will also contribute to your finished project.

Keep reading you will soon find your goal and another way to spend your money and time!!
............. I have one finished and ready to go to Canada !!!!!!!!

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I did the S10 frame for 2 reasons. Modern suspension, brakes, rear end gearing, etc. and I couldn't beat the cost. I gave $150 for my complete chassis. It came with e-brake pedal, master/booster, ebrake cables, brake lines, fuel tank, driveshaft, and a bunch of other things that I needed. Can't get all that stuff from a scrapyard anymore at anywhere near that price. S10 frame gives you a nice low stance on factory suspension (before drop spindles I was a 7.25" off the ground at the running boards) and any shop can align it with no issues. Having said all that, if I was to do it again, I would probably "clip" it with a G body or S10 front stub, and keep the rest of the frame (cab/fender/box alignment can be a real pain) Just my .02

100%
I did the S-10 but I'm putting a SBC in it. I wouldn't do it again. If you're happy with a v6, then the S-10 might be the way to go.
BUT, this is the big thing....

Originally Posted by skymangs

cab/fender/box/ alignment can be a real pain

cab/fender/box/running-boards/radiator-support/bed-floor

[skymangs]

Yeah Bill. we did a SBC in ours as well. The sheetmetal alignment is a PITA, but it will be worth it in the end. There is something to be said for not trying to reserect 65 y/o braks, bearings, fuel system, etc. As well as doing building your own suspension geometry on the garage floor.

The S10 chassis I scored was on the road and in good shape until 2 months before we got it (blew a trans).

[dirtracer81_2]

Im going with ez chassis..Seems they save you alot of grey hair. Atleast I hope.
Posted via Mobile Device

[GBM]

After reading all the responses here, the main key is your level of fabricating experience and knowledge. I have put all kids of old bodies on s10 frames: fords, dodges, studebaker trucks, and more.

I find s10 frames for next to nothing and within a couple hours I have mounts drawn up in CAD and cut on my plasma table.

Two trains of thought to think about. What is your end goal for the truck and would you rather just make sure the body is straight (there are bolt on kits available) or completely build the suspension and worry about all your angles, measurements and so forth.

Stock frames are nice, I have boxed them and sub framed them, I have installed mustang II fronts, I have used s10 frames, heck I have even put them on newer car frames and 4x4 frames. Just be real and honest with your skill level and done go too far over your head.

Continue your research and see which ways you feel comfortable about. What tools do you have to complete your project? My first ever build was a nightmare, but also the best experience I had. I learned all the ways how not to do things. I didnt have the internet to research so everything was trial and error.

You are on the right site to get all the help you need, just continue asking questions no matter how trivial they are. Most have already been covered, so search and read. Ask questions of the people who have the build threads of items that interest you.

Welcome to the world of the AD truck!! I have built many and no two ere exactly alike!!

[skymangs]

x2 on GBM's insights!

[G&R's57GMC]

You might want to save reinventing the wheel check these guys out http://www.e-zchassisswaps.com