Thinking of ez chassis swap and sh

[beanyard]

I have been thinking all day about buying a short box fleetside bed and doing an ez chassis swap with a 73-87 short box 2wd chassis. Has anyone else used the ez chassis swap kit?

The plan would be to buy the box now while it is available and do the frame swap after we build our new house in a couple of years.

Does anyone else think it might be a sin to convert a really clean longbox fleetside big window into a short box big window. I have deluxe trim for the longbox fleetside too!

I was mainly curious to get some input.

[krazy_texan]

i am assuming you have a 58-59 cause i seen the 4 eye club. I personally would use an s10 chassis being as the older trucks are smaller than a more modern fullsize. but that also all depends on what you plan to do with the truck.

[beanyard]

Indeed it is a 59. Generally speaking the s10 swaps are used for pre 55 trucks. The 55-59s have a wider stance.
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[sgtusmc]

I used a 88 c1500 on my 59 fleety swap. I didn't buy a kit. I made my own brackets. I've also done the 53 to s10 swap. I found it easier to do the 59 swap than the 53 swap. Just my 2 pennies.

[57picupnewbie]

I used an '85 C-10 frame and the width was much closr than the S-10. Yes I did order the EZ swap kit and it is wonderful. Go to my build thread for pics.

[beanyard]

How much cost was involved in rebuilding the 80's suspension and putting the drop spindles etc on?
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[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by beanyard

How much cost was involved in rebuilding the 80's suspension and putting the drop spindles etc on?
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The cost varies depending on where you buy the parts and what kind of deal you get. Also it depends on if you use oem style rubber bushings or poly bushings.
Buy Quality parts though and don't go for the cheapest cut rate pieces.
From what I've bought so far the "good" Autozone chassis parts seem to be Moog pieces with Moog parts numbers.
It looks like his friend's students were doing the rebuild so that would cut labor costs until he springs for burgers or pizza for the class after the project is done.

If you had a shop do the whole job including brakes you are probably looking at 1200 parts and labor due to a quote I got on having some work done on my 71 GMC. I'll change the parts myself and take it in for alignment when it's done. I can do the alignment but don't have an alignment rack at home.

[_Ogre]

ask anyone who answers, how it drives and handle. most frame swaps never get done.
i recommend a mustII x-member, they are proven in driveability and handling.
my thought is the best frame for your truck is the stock frame, modified.
a little c-notch in back and the right suspension and your done.

orrieg has the best frame swap i've ever seen, but i don't think any frame swap is a beginner project.

[beanyard]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

ask anyone who answers, how it drives and handle. most frame swaps never get done.
i recommend a mustII x-member, they are proven in driveability and handling.
my thought is the best frame for your truck is the stock frame, modified.
a little c-notch in back and the right suspension and your done.

orrieg has the best frame swap i've ever seen, but i don't think any frame swap is a beginner project.

I think you are right. My truck is in great shape... the frame included. When I put the POR 15 on the back half of the frame, much of the original black paint was still there.

My biggest beef with the front suspension is that after I drive it for more than a few days I get sick of the non power brakes, steering, and solid axle. It is very smooth and will do 90 with the borg warner overdrive tailshaft. I think that the previous owner had the front end rebuilt because there isn't slop in the king pins.

If I were to do a mustang cross member I think I would do the stock ride height (still a 2" drop) and 6 lug brakes because I have had the factory rear end re built with a new ring and pinion 3:90.
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[_Ogre]

if your happy with the ride, add power steering and disk brakes to your front axle.

imo, you have a much rarer truck with the long fleetside box.
every vendor has new parts for the short stepside beds.
no one even offers fleetside parts, i'd keep the fleetside, but what the hey, it's your truck...

look at some of the nice fleetside builds here before you make your decision.

[_Ogre]

and post some pics, include some of the overdrive tailshaft ...

[beanyard]

The box I found is a short fleetside which some would say is better than a long fleetside.
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[meter swinger]

A friend of mine has a 56 GMC on a 80 c-10 frame.
He did it before any kits were around and just swapped the mounts from gmc to the c-10.
He had to fab some stuff, the way the core support mounted was the biggest hurdle IIRC.
Its low, and the tire clearance in the front is really tight but it works. I think the c-10 track width is around 4" wider.
You can get c-10 drop spindles that are 3/4" narrower per side.
Then offcourse you could get a porterbuilt dropmember that would shave 2" off and narrowed a-arms would gain another 1" per side.
The beauty of the squarebody frame is that just about any thing you want modify in the way of suspension can be done with a wrench.
Ive thought about this myself obviously, but i love my little 78 gmc to much to cut it up.
Post up some pics.
And by all means, go get that short fleet. If the sides are good do it, everything else is repoped.
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[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by beanyard

The box I found is a short fleetside which some would say is better than a long fleetside.
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either one would look good to me, i like the look of the fleetsides, but have never owned one.
no biggie to shorten it, a couple cuts, gussets and box the frame.

now for my dd? long box is the only way to go
never found much use for a short box on a work truck.

i bought my first long and wide bed on this truck