Prep for first start in 10 years?

[LoudLowNslow]

Hey guys, truck is a 66 gmc. 250 i6, 3 on the tree. What should I do in prep of starting it for the first time in 10 years? I pulled the carb and I need to buy a new one. I just want to make sure this thing cranks over before I buy a new fuel tank and lines. Somebody told me to pull the plugs and put some Marvel Mystery oil in there and let it sit for a week. Any other input? Thanks guys, -Paul
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[markeb01]

Assuming you care about the truck and want to avoid engine damage, these are the steps I would take:

1. Change the oil and filter - using oil designed for flat tappet cams. There are many threads on this topic explaining that most modern oils no longer protect these older camshafts/lifters.
2. Change the antifreeze and check the radiator and heater hoses for cracks and deterioration.
3. Replace or at lease check the fan belts cracks/deterioration.
4. Replace the wear items in the ignition – plugs, points, rotor, cap, and condenser.
5. Replace the fuel filter if it has one.
6. Replace the air filter.
7. Disconnect the fuel pump from the gas tank, and feed fresh fuel to the pump from a “safe” external source. (Running varnished sludgy gas into the engine isn’t going to help anything).

Make sure the timing is set somewhere near close, and have a fully charged battery. If it were mine, after I’d done all that, I would pull the distributor and prime the engine until oil pressure shows on the dash gauge. If you don’t have an oil pressure gauge, I’d pull the valve cover and prime the oil pump until fresh oil appears at the rockers.

With this done you’ve given the engine about every chance for a healthy start up.

[awbrown]

Normally I check for spark , and you can tell when it turns over if it has compression.. then I usually disconnect the fuel line at the carb and run it to a 5 gallon can ,if it has sat for 10 years you know that nothing good can be in the tank .. i fill the carb with new fuel through the vent and make sure the accelerator pump works ,then give it a try if it starts and has oil pressure I run it for a while then change the oil and filter ,,, no sense in spending money on points and condensor and oil and filter if the engine has a knock or worse ..oil in the cylinders only if it turns hard or has no compression ...

[LoudLowNslow]

The stock tank is not connected, last time it ran it was driven to my house via a 5 gallon container sitting on the passenger floor(10 years ago). When I pulled the carb off the fuel line that goes to the tank broke so I know I need to replace that. I just don't want to start dumping money into it if the engine is seized, it will probably have to wait a while longer if it is. I have already changed the oil and filter, plugs, wires, cap & rotor. There is no radiator in it right now as it blew on the ride to my house 10 years ago.. So I will be doing a radiator and hoses also. Thanks for the replies guys, any help is appreciated!

Also, where can I buy pre bent fuel lines? I need all of them! Will be buying a new fuel tank and sending unit.
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[k1rodeoboater]

don't bother buying prebent anything. You can pick up pre-cut and flared sections of poly armour lines from advanced auto/autozone and bend the stuff by hand. It's not OE looking at all but it's quick and easy if you don't want to mess with DIY flaring

[LoudLowNslow]

I was told fuel lines are a b!tc* to bend?
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[k1rodeoboater]

I used that same poly armour stuff to hook up my under bed tank I retro/ghetto fitted. Bent it all by hand, and it's not that hard to do

[jocko]

bending your own is pretty easy. Straight line is rather cheap, so make sure you buy a little extra for "practice" (i.e. mistakes) - but it's a steep learning curve. I recommend investing in at least a cheap line bender. Lines bent by hand look like, well, that they were bent by hand (to me). Big wide bends (like brake lines behind the curve of the front crossmember), sure, bend em over your belly like Chief Rocka!, but fuel lines, I prefer a tubing bending tool for a finished appearance. Not saying it can't be done without a bender, but I would be willing to bet that if you're at all hesitant about your first bending attempt - you'll be happier with the results by using a bender. They're cheap. I do agree with k1rodeo, don't waste $ on pre-bent though. Unless a full-blown resto perhaps.

EDIT: I think those saying "bending by hand" are saying the same thing I am - i.e. using a bender by hand, right - y'all aren't actually bending em with JUST your hands are ya?

[k1rodeoboater]

Originally Posted by jocko

bending your own is pretty easy. Straight line is rather cheap, so make sure you buy a little extra for "practice" (i.e. mistakes) - but it's a steep learning curve. I recommend investing in at least a cheap line bender. Lines bent by hand look like, well, that they were bent by hand (to me). Big wide bends (like brake lines behind the curve of the front crossmember), sure, bend em over your belly like Chief Rocka!, but fuel lines, I prefer a tubing bending tool for a finished appearance. Not saying it can't be done without a bender, but I would be willing to bet that if you're at all hesitant about your first bending attempt - you'll be happier with the results by using a bender. They're cheap. I do agree with k1rodeo, don't waste $ on pre-bent though. Unless a full-blown resto perhaps.

Only thing I'd argue is to get a decent quality bender...I have 2 crap ones and my hand bent lines look better than my bender bent lines. I never could get a good feel for the bend when I used the tool, by hand I could feel just before it would kink...then again I'm a bit off in general so who knows

[Imperial Kustom]

After filling with fresh oil, mark the rotor location on the distributor and pull it out. Buy, rent, borrow or build a priming tool and spin the oil pump to full pressure for a minute or two. The bearings and valve train will thank you for this step, especially if it doesn't fire right away.