frontend rebuild questions

[Hotrob72]

I finally got my truck in for a alignment yesterday (after the drop) 1/2 ton and it still seems to handle pretty poor. It was basicly the 1st time I had driven the truck (more then around the block) since I bought it.
We can pass on getting any additional info from the alignment shop..........nuff said.
So Im not sure how to tell whats bad..... Drives straight just seems loose not tight, like a old truck. So do I just get everything since it will be back apart ?

Ball joints, upper/lower
Tie rods, inner/outer
Sleeves
What about...
Shafts/bushings ?
Pitman ?
______ ?

[Tynee]

No individual part is terribly expensive, but when you add them up, they can start to gouge you a little bit. My input would be to get it up in the air, crawl under, and see what is obviously broken or loose. See what has excessive play. Replace those parts, and go from there. My experience with ball joints is that the uppers aren't terrible to replace, but the lowers are a pain in the butt.

Don't forget the idler arm assembly, too. It could cause loose steering.

Oh, and keep your expectations reasonable. This is a '71 truck, not a Ferrari.

[MrSchaeferPants]

Originally Posted by Tynee

No individual part is terribly expensive, but when you add them up, they can start to gouge you a little bit. My input would be to get it up in the air, crawl under, and see what is obviously broken or loose. See what has excessive play. Replace those parts, and go from there.

Yup Yup

Steering components are pretty easy to diagnose too. Pitman arm, idler arm, put your hands on both at the same time, grab them firmly. Have someone else move the wheels left/right smoothly, and also quickly jerking left/right. If you feel rattling, clunking, you have play. Check for play in your gear box too.

Check bushings, the bushings are usually not too expensive, but removing parts to replace the bushings, can sometimes cause you to replace parts, if ya know what I mean.

Check ball joints, put a jack under the lower arm, lift so your tire is 2-3in above the ground, press it in all directions, see if theres any sideways movement, and grab a tankers bar or large prybar, put it under the tire, and lift up to check for up/down movement in the shaft/ball. There should be none in any direction.

Check all the holes if you replace the part, ball joint, tie rod, pitman, idler. If you replace the part, make sure the hole that part goes into isn't warbled out and oblong, or you won't fix anything. And check fastners, make sure nothings loose.

It IS a 40 year old truck. 100% new parts will make it drive like a 30 year old truck

[Hotrob72]

I will do a little more lookin & shakin when I get home tonight. I looked on line and it doesent look all that bad to just replace it all, then I know its all new and tight...as it can be.

[chevytruckluver]

When I used to do front end alignments we would inspect the entire front suspension for wear, you cannot get the alignment correct with worn parts. I would think the guys that did the alignment would let you know if you had any bad parts. you may have some excess wear in the steering gear box if the "feel" is loose, that is something that can be adjusted. Thats is everything else is tight

[Hotrob72]

I will try to explain the feel a differant way...
Driving along at 35-45 mph turn the wheel from side to side, no slop just seems to be alot of sway of the truck....With this drop, wide wheel/tire just feels like it handles poorly

[chevytruckluver]

does the truck have a anti sway bar?

[Hotrob72]

Originally Posted by chevytruckluver

does the truck have a anti sway bar?

yes.

[chevytruckluver]

do you have a print out of the alignment before and after the work?

[Hotrob72]

Originally Posted by chevytruckluver

do you have a print out of the alignment before and after the work?

Yes. I will scan a copy in the am when I get to work.

[Lee H]

If the tech did not mention any wear issues that's a good sign, well maybe. I would suspect a little wear in all the components adding up to play in the wheel. Tire wear will also impact steering feel. Also remember your talking 40 year old technology. I did a total suspension & steering job last year and all I can say is wow!! Red hat steering box, repacked the steering shaft, new rag joint, new pitman & idler arms, tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings, wheel bearings. If you want the new truck feel, "all" components in the stream have to be in top notch condition.
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[snacks]

check out your body mounts too,and a rear sway bar works wonders

[Hotrob72]

After looking things over, pulling, shaking ect....
Pitman arm does not even have a nut although dosent seem loose.
Upper ball joints are bolted in so must not be original ones.
Sway bar rubbers look shot.
I will post the alignment sheet in the morning and do some more research before I buy parts.

[MrSchaeferPants]

Hopefully someone with experience can help with this. But when vehicles are lowered, doesn't the camber change, which has to be corrected at upper/lower arm? If they didn't take that into consideration when they did the alignment.

[Hotrob72]

Originally Posted by chevytruckluver

do you have a print out of the alignment before and after the work?

Here is a copy..........

[chevytruckluver]

Your alignment looks good. you did have a camber problem looking at the before reading, but I dont see anything that I can say would raise a red flag. If the sway bar bushings are worn out I would replace those, they can make a big diffrence in the handling.

[Hotrob72]

Thanks, my son came over and greased everything that was greasable (this truck sat in a field for over 10 years) I will pickup a pinion nut before I drive it agian and possible start with new swaybar bushing and go from there.

[Hotrob72]

I replaced the swaybar bushings. Bought a kit by Energy suspension which came with bushing & new cups with grease zerks. Seems a little better, good enough for now.
I have now after driving the truck found out the rearend gears need to be changed as it runs at a pretty high RPM at 60 (no tach yet and a pretty tall rear tire. Think I will look for a rearend with some 3.08's as I think mine are 3.73's