Cab Mounts: Part #'s and how hard to replace? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

TIMSPEED · 09-29-2003, 01:17 AM

Anyone replace the cab mounts on their C10 yet? I'm 99% sure mine are shot and that's what's causing my truck to ride like crap, as well as lean BADLY.
How hard are they to change? Should I HAVE them changed or can I do it myself?

BaggedC10 · 09-29-2003, 02:05 AM

I installed new PST body mounts recently and it was very simple.

1. Remove the grille and headlight bezels to access the front radiator support bolts.

2. Loosen the driver side cab and radiator support bolts. Just enough to have 1" of up and down movement.

3. Completely remove all passenger side bolts.

4. Raise the cab by placing a floor jack under the cab floor support (The one that extends out to the rocker panel). The body should be raised just enough to remove the mounts.

5. Remove the mounts from the steel cups and install the new units.

From here, it's pretty obvious what has to be done.

I would also recommend installing new hardware. Dirt and etc. builds up inside the mounts and the hardware goes south. Check-out LMC for new hardware.

TIMSPEED · 09-29-2003, 03:06 AM

Got a part #?

Nvbowtie · 09-29-2003, 04:43 AM

I just did mine the other nite, my front end was already apart so the actual cab mounts only took about 30 minutes.

http://www.unlimited2u.com/sept

Orion 762 · 10-10-2003, 12:59 AM

I'm trying the 'cab mount replace" game as well, but on both of my "forward cab mounts", the long thru-bolts have been welded to the floor (on the inside of the cab).

I have the new mounts/bolt/nuts etc. Do I need to break these welds, OR do I just try to re-use the thru-bolts as-is?? It looks like a TIG weld where the original "hex head" of the bolt is melted/welded to the flooring. I guess this was done to keep them from backing off on their own.

Any hints?? If I keep the original welded-in bolts, it looks like I'll have to raise the cab (somehow) more than 4" to get clearance to install the new rubber mounts.

If I need to remove these thru-bolts, what's the best way to "break the old weld" without chewing a hole thru my floor?

Any help will be appreciated.

Orion 762

Nvbowtie · 10-10-2003, 04:45 AM

Unscrew all 4- bolts

Jack the cab at each mount location individually and replace the mounts.

Thread the bolt back in a few turns just so it wont fall out.

Just be careful and make sure the cab is secure and won't fall on your hand while you pull the old mount out.

tighten all the bolts to specified torque and re-check after a couple hundred miles.

that's it your done...

TIMSPEED · 10-10-2003, 05:08 AM

Hopefully, after replacing the cab mounts, my truck will ride like factory fresh!

BaggedC10 · 10-10-2003, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by TIMSPEED
Hopefully, after replacing the cab mounts, my truck will ride like factory fresh!

Did you buy polygraphite or rubber?

MylilBowTie · 10-10-2003, 01:47 PM

Is there a part number for the steel cups? Im sure atleast one of mine has just rusted off and is gone.

09-29-2003, 01:17 AM	#1
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Cab Mounts: Part #'s and how hard to replace? Anyone replace the cab mounts on their C10 yet? I'm 99% sure mine are shot and that's what's causing my truck to ride like crap, as well as lean BADLY. How hard are they to change? Should I HAVE them changed or can I do it myself? __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

09-29-2003, 02:05 AM	#2
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	I installed new PST body mounts recently and it was very simple. 1. Remove the grille and headlight bezels to access the front radiator support bolts. 2. Loosen the driver side cab and radiator support bolts. Just enough to have 1" of up and down movement. 3. Completely remove all passenger side bolts. 4. Raise the cab by placing a floor jack under the cab floor support (The one that extends out to the rocker panel). The body should be raised just enough to remove the mounts. 5. Remove the mounts from the steel cups and install the new units. From here, it's pretty obvious what has to be done. I would also recommend installing new hardware. Dirt and etc. builds up inside the mounts and the hardware goes south. Check-out LMC for new hardware. __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold

09-29-2003, 03:06 AM	#3
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Got a part #? __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

09-29-2003, 04:43 AM	#4
Nvbowtie Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Laughlin, Nv. USA Posts: 700	I just did mine the other nite, my front end was already apart so the actual cab mounts only took about 30 minutes. http://www.unlimited2u.com/sept Attached Images __________________ www.unlimited2u.com/chevy Bill 1980 Chevy C-10 Silverado 1988 Chevy Blazer Tahoe

10-10-2003, 12:59 AM	#5
Orion 762 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mississippi Posts: 36	Cab mounts and welded bolts I'm trying the 'cab mount replace" game as well, but on both of my "forward cab mounts", the long thru-bolts have been welded to the floor (on the inside of the cab). I have the new mounts/bolt/nuts etc. Do I need to break these welds, OR do I just try to re-use the thru-bolts as-is?? It looks like a TIG weld where the original "hex head" of the bolt is melted/welded to the flooring. I guess this was done to keep them from backing off on their own. Any hints?? If I keep the original welded-in bolts, it looks like I'll have to raise the cab (somehow) more than 4" to get clearance to install the new rubber mounts. If I need to remove these thru-bolts, what's the best way to "break the old weld" without chewing a hole thru my floor? Any help will be appreciated. Orion 762

10-10-2003, 04:45 AM	#6
Nvbowtie Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Laughlin, Nv. USA Posts: 700	Unscrew all 4- bolts Jack the cab at each mount location individually and replace the mounts. Thread the bolt back in a few turns just so it wont fall out. Just be careful and make sure the cab is secure and won't fall on your hand while you pull the old mount out. tighten all the bolts to specified torque and re-check after a couple hundred miles. that's it your done... __________________ www.unlimited2u.com/chevy Bill 1980 Chevy C-10 Silverado 1988 Chevy Blazer Tahoe

10-10-2003, 05:08 AM	#7
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Hopefully, after replacing the cab mounts, my truck will ride like factory fresh! __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

10-10-2003, 01:47 PM	#9
MylilBowTie Right turn Clyde Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 2,911	Is there a part number for the steel cups? Im sure atleast one of mine has just rusted off and is gone. __________________ 1974 C25 LWB: 454 4bbl Carb / TH400 / 3.73 1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI

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