Question for the disc brake Gurus

[AJohn6]

I am getting ready to start round 2 on my '71. I just ordered a ton of parts and am now trying to make a game plan on what needs to be accomplished.

I ordered the Wilwood 13" front/rear disc brakes, Scotts Hotrods under the dash pedal assembly, remote dual reservoir and 7" booster w/ corvette style master cylinder.

My question is as follows.

What is the purpose of the coiled brake line just after the proportion block and are they needed? With an under dash assembly, as long as the master cylinder and reservoir are the highest points of the system do I need a check valve?

Thanks in advance,
Adam

[lolife99]

I personally see no need for the coiled brake tubing.
And you are correct,... no check valve needed as long as the M/C is higher, in the chassis, than the brake calipers.

[3rdGen.c10]

the coils are for ease of doing a body lift. you just spread them out. so no theyre not needed.

[AJohn6]

Awesome, thanks fellas.

Hey 3rdGen.C10, I used to live down in Navarre and used to go to the track to watch my buddies race their bikes. I was stationed there for about 5 years.

[tinydb84]

I believe the coils increase flexibility and prevent the lines from cracking
Posted via Mobile Device

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I believe the coils increase flexibility and prevent the lines from cracking
Posted via Mobile Device

yes and i would use them for a prolonged trouble free lifespan of sure stopping

[CRGRS 66]

the purpose of these coils is to absorb vibration and to allow for some movement without breaking or stressing the lines causing premature failure. in the process I have seen some make them look real pretty too, bending and routing hydraulic lines can be an art form

[AJohn6]

Great info guys, thanks. That what I figured it would be but I just wanted to make sure.

Adam

[robnolimit]

The coils from the OE were there to allow some movement of the master without cracking the lines. The under dash unti you'r using will flex a little - so I would either coil the hardline, or use a flex line from the master over to a bulkhead fitting on the firewall. You will need an adjustable proportioning valve to adjust the front/rear bias, and I recomend a 2lb check valve in both the front and rear line.

[AJohn6]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The coils from the OE were there to allow some movement of the master without cracking the lines. The under dash unti you'r using will flex a little - so I would either coil the hardline, or use a flex line from the master over to a bulkhead fitting on the firewall. You will need an adjustable proportioning valve to adjust the front/rear bias, and I recomend a 2lb check valve in both the front and rear line.

Rob,

Thanks for the help. It's guys like you, the ones that really know what they are doing, that make this forum the best I've found. I have spent the last 3 day reading your "Make it handle" thread and it is blowing my mind. Just the shear volume of valid information you give out for free is amazing. I know I appreciate and I'm fairly certain others on this site do to.

Thanks,
Adam

[robnolimit]

No problem. Make it fun to drive, and you'll drive it more