Power door wiring harness help

[izzy_Britton]

So i picked up a set of suburban front door power window regs, power door lock actuators and door wiring harnesses.

I also picked up the wiring harness that goes from the drivers door to the dash, across the dash, to the passenger door, and under the carpet in the front passenger foot well to someplace in the back.

obviously being out of a burb, the driver door has switches for 4 windows. I intend to convert my 2 door truck over to power doors. The 4 door wire harness has been cut so i am trying to figure out how to modify the harness to fit my application or if i should hold out for a 2 door harness?

My question to those of you who may have done this conversion, do any of you have a wiring diagram for a standard truck cab power window and lock setup?

Thanks in advance.

-Izzy

[83GMCK2500]

Have you found this thread yet? One of our members oh so graciously uploaded and shared a lot of literature including wiring diagrams.

[Greenlee]

I did this swap and have never been able to get the windows and locks to work correctly. I used the wire harness from a Suburban and just cut all the wires going to the rear doors. Both windows work from the driver side switches but the driver window goes down when you push the switch up, and up when you push it down. My locks don't work and none of the switches work from the passenger side. I'm about to swap in the wire harness from a pickup and see if that fixes it.

I have the wire diagrams. I will see if i can post it for you.
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[Greenlee]

Here is the wiring diagram. I'm apparently not smart enough to read it because I have never been able to get mine to work right.

[LONGHAIR]

The up/down being backward on the switch is a simple fix. All you have to do is swap the wires on the motor.
The motors are un-grounded. So one wire going in is hot (+12volts) and the other is the ground, completing the circuit. To reverse it works the opposite way. The hot wire goes to the other terminal as does the ground.
If you have a test-light you can prove it to yourself...or simply make a mini-harness of two wires. Connect both to the motor, one on each terminal. Take the other ends to a battery. Touch them to the terminals....the window will move one way or the other. Swap the wires and it will go the opposite way.

[wraprail]

You should just be able to leave the rear harness unpluged and the front will work fine.
Rear meaning the rear 2 doors. According to your diagram the two plug together.
You may have to cut the pink wire (B+)

[frog210]

What i did was
i got a suburban wiring harness and some 87 chevy truck doors
the truck doors had the harness all the way to where they would connect,
i then just cut the rear wire harness off, and splice the truck harness to the suburban harness and it worked real good...

[Greenlee]

This thread got me motivated to go out and tinker with my windows again. I took out the Suburban harness and put in a truck harness. My windows now work perfectly from the driver side switches. On the passenger side, it will go down with the passenger side switch but will not go back up. I guess I need to take off the door panel now and see if I have problem with the switch.

My locks still don't do anything. I think I must have bad relays or something.

With respect to the original question of using a burb harness, the driver window operates backwars so the Suburban must have different pin outs for driver side switch. I was never able to get the passenger side window switch to do anything with the burb harness. I tried various switches I had laying around and tried touching some of the wires together that went to the rear doors. In my opinion it's easier to just get a truck harness.
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[wraprail]

While you have the door panel off test out your door lock wiring. They are simple positive.....I can't think of the word...input i guess, you have 3 wires at the switch.
B+ and an unlock wire and lock wire. The B+ is awalys hot. Find it with a test light and touch it to one of the other wires on the switch.
Both doors should either lock or unlock.
If you don't have power check your connection at the fuse box.
The relays rarely go bad.

It's awalys eaiser to get a truck harness

[motornut]

i noticed in my 87 burb with crank windows and power locks
used the same plugs,same colour wires,just different spots, then 88 burb both power

[earnhardtgm3]

Why not just add relays to be more efficient and faster.

[izzy_Britton]

I have decided that the plan of action for me, since i am not an electrical wiz and i have a difficult enough time as it is to read these schematics, I am going to take all the existing wires that i have and mount them to piece of plywood in the correct config to try and learn and trouble shoot the conversion from 4 door to 2 door BEFORE i try mounting it all in the truck.

I like the idea of the 4 relay conversion but i wonder if it is overkill? and how much more efficient / faster could this possibly be?

One question that i do have about the firebird schematic posted above is the connection to the fuse box. I am correct in assuming that the fuze block connections, both of them, are to positive power connections?

I will keep y'all posted if i make any progress over the coming weekend.

Thanks for the replies to my stupid questions, although i am still lost as i could be before starting, i do appreciate the reference material that i will keep at my side when i do start.

-Izzy

[Greenlee]

The relay mod makes a big difference in speed from what I have read. There is a thread on this forum with instructions. I was thinking about doing it, however, I spent some time oiling and greasing the regulators and mine are plenty fast now. I have a 2006 Nissan Titan and I think my old Chevy windows may be faster than the Titan after cleaning up the regulators and replacing the motors.
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