Any LT1 350 owners on here?

[Jonboy]

Not really. When you pare down the harness or use a stand alone harness, you get it down to switched power, constant power, grounds, and a few mics. wires (park/neutral, vss, a/c request, brake on/off, etc). You should be able to tie these in with any aftermarket harness you use.

edit: get the aftermarket harness you are going to use, and integrate the LT1 wiring into that.

[JWheeler331]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

Not really. When you pare down the harness or use a stand alone harness, you get it down to switched power, constant power, grounds, and a few mics. wires (park/neutral, vss, a/c request, brake on/off, etc). You should be able to tie these in with any aftermarket harness you use.

edit: get the aftermarket harness you are going to use, and integrate the LT1 wiring into that.

Thanks. I am new to this type of build and all and my biggest fear is to spend 500-600 on something and it not working for what I need or something.

I didn't want to buy a harness and then end up getting the LT1 ready and not being able to use that harness.

[Jonboy]

You should be cool. I did a TBI swap in my last '74 using the fuelinjectionconection.com harness, and used the original wiring. Seems like it was 12 wires, max. One thing leads to another, and it got a new interior along the way (twice!).

[66 C10 383]

You will need a separate harness to run the LT1. They are available from several places such as Painless, Howell, Techrods, Fuel Injection Connection, etc ...

[jayoldschool]

You can easily use a stock GM harness from the donor car. You don't have to go with aftermarket. You can buy an LT1 Caprice/Roadmaster/Fleetwood parts car for the price of just an aftermarket harness!

[Trsmotrhed]

One more small thing to hook up. LT1 has reverse cooling with a steam line that needs hooked up. I've seen several ways. I hooked my line in the heater line with a connection from autometer to hook up a in line gauge. Worked great. It's the brass fitting to the left.


Posted via Mobile Device

[JWheeler331]

Originally Posted by 66 C10 383

You will need a separate harness to run the LT1. They are available from several places such as Painless, Howell, Techrods, Fuel Injection Connection, etc ...

Even if I pull the one from the Trans Am?

Originally Posted by jayoldschool

You can easily use a stock GM harness from the donor car. You don't have to go with aftermarket. You can buy an LT1 Caprice/Roadmaster/Fleetwood parts car for the price of just an aftermarket harness!

I was hoping to salvage the wiring harness from the Trans Am.

[66 C10 383]

During the TPI years of cars around 89 the harness was integrated within the dash and engine harness. If you know how to separate just the EFI part of the harness out then you can run the OEM harness. Not ever messing with a stock LT1 style harness myself they may very well be separate from the rest of the car.

[Trsmotrhed]

You can salvage the stock harness as others have posted in here. Have you looked at http://www.lt1swap.com/ that will answer the questions about the harness.
Posted via Mobile Device

[1enick72]

I have a 94 Corvette LT1 swapped into my 65 as well. I used a harness from fuelinjectionconnection too. You would have the added cost of the harness but it does keep everything under the hood nice and clean.

[JWheeler331]

Originally Posted by Trsmotrhed

You can salvage the stock harness as others have posted in here. Have you looked at http://www.lt1swap.com/ that will answer the questions about the harness.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks. I have been looking at the swap site. I did not see that though.

Originally Posted by 1enick72

I have a 94 Corvette LT1 swapped into my 65 as well. I used a harness from fuelinjectionconnection too. You would have the added cost of the harness but it does keep everything under the hood nice and clean.

Yeah, nice and clean sounds good.
Posted via Mobile Device

[nimrod]

Originally Posted by JWheeler331

Thanks. I have been looking at the swap site. I did not see that though.



Yeah, nice and clean sounds good.
Posted via Mobile Device

I used this as a starting point for wire removal/addition.

http://www.lt1swap.com/lt1_pcm_pinout.htm

[1enick72]

Here is a picture of mine for you to look at.

[65Gregg]

There is an add in the classified section of garage journal for an LT1, he wants $425.00 with ECM.
Posted via Mobile Device

[JWheeler331]

I'm headed to Alabama this weekend to pick up the car and bring it home. Then I will pull the motor and see what I really have to work with.
Posted via Mobile Device

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by JWheeler331

Anyone of you put a LT1 350 in their truck?

My cousin has had a 1997 Trans Am that was nearly brand new in terms of use......been sitting in his yard for the last 10 years or so due to hitting a deer. I was asking him about the motor and he said I could have it if I hauled off the whole car. This was a top of the line Trans Am and I figure I could sell enough of the other parts to have the motor redone.

Just wondering if anyone else has one of these motors in their truck and how hard it was to make the swap?

I remember riding in that car and with its 5 speed manual tranny and whatever rearend it has.....the car was pretty awesome

J, bfore I'd spend one nickel on rebuilding that engine, I'd use the steering column(for key & other wiring)and stock wiring harness and start that engine in the shop--on a stand or we've actually started them on the floor. You may find that it runs plenty good just as it is.
You'll be hours ahead to remove the injectors 1st and have them cleaned/checked/replaced if any are bad. I've seen those LT1's with 200K+ on them and still running quite well. As far as changing cam and upping hp: since you'll be used to 283 power, in stock form, it'll be such a step up that you'll be happy for a long time with its stock output.
Luck with your challenge.
Sam

[JWheeler331]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

J, bfore I'd spend one nickel on rebuilding that engine, I'd use the steering column(for key & other wiring)and stock wiring harness and start that engine in the shop--on a stand or we've actually started them on the floor. You may find that it runs plenty good just as it is.
You'll be hours ahead to remove the injectors 1st and have them cleaned/checked/replaced if any are bad. I've seen those LT1's with 200K+ on them and still running quite well. As far as changing cam and upping hp: since you'll be used to 283 power, in stock form, it'll be such a step up that you'll be happy for a long time with its stock output.
Luck with your challenge.
Sam

Thanks. When I get the car home I do plan to see if I can get it started before hauling it to the shop. When it was parked it ran great but had the front corner busted up making driving it not possible.

[JWheeler331]

Well....today I picked up the car. Here are a couple pics of the motor.









Lots of dirt dobber nests and spiders under the hood but luckily no wasps.

I do have a question though that maybe some of you could help me with.

We checked the oil and besides being a little dirty it looked pretty good. No water or anything in the oil.

My cousin could not find the keys anywhere so we took it without the keys. My question is as follows;

If we wanted to try and crank the motor while still in the car....but don't have the keys what would be the best way to try and do that?

[Trsmotrhed]

You have to bypass the VATS. I found this link. See if that gives you what you're looking for.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-ma...how-video.html

It might be easier to pull the computer and have someone delete the VATS. Be better if you had the key. You'll still have to hot wire to get started. Google some of this and I'm sure you'll find what you're looking for. Maybe someone has more experience with this and can help.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jayoldschool]

By the way, the easiest way to remove that engine is from the bottom, front suspension and all. The whole k member.

For a key, just take the VIN to the closest GM dealership. They'll cut you a key in about 5 minutes!

[JWheeler331]

Originally Posted by Trsmotrhed

You have to bypass the VATS. I found this link. See if that gives you what you're looking for.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-ma...how-video.html

It might be easier to pull the computer and have someone delete the VATS. Be better if you had the key. You'll still have to hot wire to get started. Google some of this and I'm sure you'll find what you're looking for. Maybe someone has more experience with this and can help.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks for the link. Seems I can only find posts and videos about bypassing it if you have the key which we don't. Would be nice to crank it still in the car since everything is already hooked up but if we cant then maybe we can on the stand.

Originally Posted by jayoldschool

By the way, the easiest way to remove that engine is from the bottom, front suspension and all. The whole k member.

For a key, just take the VIN to the closest GM dealership. They'll cut you a key in about 5 minutes!

I was looking at that small place up top and was also thinking it would be easier from the bottom also.

[luvbowties]

My cousin could not find the keys anywhere so we took it without the keys. My question is as follows;

If we wanted to try and crank the motor while still in the car....but don't have the keys what would be the best way to try and do that?[/QUOTE]

When I earlier suggested starting it in the shop, I did not realize the wreck left it where engine would run in the car. By ALL MEANS, follow jayoldschool's advice where he suggested taking vin to dealer & get a key cut. You may have to show SOME d'ships proof of ownership, so go prepared.
Sam

[61_FL_Apache]

Originally Posted by jayoldschool

By the way, the easiest way to remove that engine is from the bottom, front suspension and all. The whole k member.

That is true. You just have to get the car high enough to slide it out the front, unless you have access to a lift.

[61_FL_Apache]

A lot of nice LT1 install pics.

[JWheeler331]

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

That is true. You just have to get the car high enough to slide it out the front, unless you have access to a lift.

Yes. We do have a lift. That will def make things easier.