Clutch pedal will not move even a half inch

[mookiex4]

I had a high school auto shop install a 283 V8 into my 65 GMC as a class project. They ran out of time and din quite finish. The immediate problem I am having is that when I push on the Clutch pedal it will not move at all. It appears everything from pedal through the bell crank and the yoke are moving in the correct direction that it should release.

I am thinking two things:

1) The Friction disc is in backwards, (What it correct? Raisd side facing tranny or flat side?).

2) The other would be that the adjustment to the linkage from the bell crank to the yoke arm has not been made. Currently it is all the way out to the edge of the treads. If it were any farther out the nuts would fall off on the ground.

They did have to make a couple of modifications, but it is such a simple movement that it shouldn't be an issue. Perhaps the Bell Crank was not the exact part.

I really need help and would prefer not to drop the tranny if I can avoid it.

Thanks,
Mark

[six-in-a-row]

Is the bell crank at an odd angle and binding up? If it were me I'd get under the thing and remove the linkage from the fork and see if the fork itself moves with my hand.

[Greg63]

I would bet on the clutch disc being in backwards.
I did that 30 years ago when I swapped in a 350 where the 230 was. Same symptoms as you describe. Totally frustrated me as I went through all my work. I finally pulled the trans and clutch to flip the friction disc - that was the problem.
Greg.

[mookiex4]

Thanks I will check it out. Maybe I can see what I need to see with the dust cover off. I hope that is what it is. Was this really the problem you had? Your clutch pedal would budge at all?

Originally Posted by Greg63

I would bet on the clutch disc being in backwards.
I did that 30 years ago when I swapped in a 350 where the 230 was. Same symptoms as you describe. Totally frustrated me as I went through all my work. I finally pulled the trans and clutch to flip the friction disc - that was the problem.
Greg.

[Greg63]

Originally Posted by mookiex4

Thanks I will check it out. Maybe I can see what I need to see with the dust cover off. I hope that is what it is. Was this really the problem you had? Your clutch pedal would budge at all?

Yup. No movement at all. I couldn't understand what could be hung up, and I checked EVERYTHING several times. I finally resolved myself to go back to the start. IIRC I saw "flywheel side" marked on my disc, and it wasn't on the flywheel side. Switched it around, reassembled, and it was as it should be.

You won't be able to see what you need from the inspection cover. The splined section of the disc is offset more to one side than the other. You can't see that when it is all assembled.
Greg.

[T Smith]

The raised side with the springs goes away from the flywheel. It really won't lay flat to the flywheel but one way.

[ky-donzi]

I Put a disc in backward before, the pedal worked fine, the clutch just never released.

They have the linkage messed up. That it apart one piece at a time and try it until you find the issue
Posted via Mobile Device

[franken]

Start from where your foot touches the pedal. Work your way toward the clutch.
In between or in the flywheel, pressure plate combo, you'll find the trouble.
Basic problem solving skills. A finite number of possible problems. Make a mental list and eliminate them one by one.

[Captainfab]

This is where I would look first. Just what type of modifications were done and why? If this was a basic stock/original type of engine R&R, there should not have had to be any modifications

Originally Posted by mookiex4

They did have to make a couple of modifications

[63burban]

Lower rod adjusted all the way out? Check if the truck rolls when in gear.
Clutch may be fully disengaged.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by mookiex4

I had a high school auto shop install a 283 V8 into my 65 GMC as a class project. They ran out of time and din quite finish. The immediate problem I am having is that when I push on the Clutch pedal it will not move at all. It appears everything from pedal through the bell crank and the yoke are moving in the correct direction that it should release.

I am thinking two things:

1) The Friction disc is in backwards, (What it correct? Raisd side facing tranny or flat side?).

2) The other would be that the adjustment to the linkage from the bell crank to the yoke arm has not been made. Currently it is all the way out to the edge of the treads. If it were any farther out the nuts would fall off on the ground.

They did have to make a couple of modifications, but it is such a simple movement that it shouldn't be an issue. Perhaps the Bell Crank was not the exact part.

I really need help and would prefer not to drop the tranny if I can avoid it.

Thanks,
Mark

Mark, 1st I agree with Captainfab re: no mods shoulda been needed**. Sounds like they used a wrong part somewhere; else, they erred twice: 1st on initial installation, & 2nd when they tried correcting their 1st bad via unneeded modding of a part(s).

However, 63burban's suggestion will be quick and easy. Put truck in gear. Will it roll now w/o trying anything with clutch pedal? If so, the clutch is already released--or, already "pushed in". This means the 'fork' needs to come further out. Adjust rod accordingly, until truck will not roll; see if pedal will now move better.
Sam

**Please explain to us what the hs-students modified & how they changed the item(s) they modded.
[Another cause could be a busted collar on the input shaft bearing retainer.]
Sam

[63burban]

Could be wrong thow out bearing

[ky-donzi]

Pivot ball. Could be in the wrong place too! Causing the zee bar to bind,,,,it's going a take one Pratt at a time to fig it out
Posted via Mobile Device

[Greg63]

Did you ever figure this out?
Greg.

[mookiex4]

Not yet. I just got all of the engine work done and the engine running like a top last Saturday. I took apart everything and re-installed it all myself one piece at a time.

I started at the pedal, Installed the push rod from the pedal to the Bell Crank and then the push rod from the Bell Crank to the Fork. I can move the fork by hand but not enough to release the clutch. The truck does not roll when in gear. I started the truck out of gear and it will not go into gear on its' own or when the pedal is depressed for what little it does move.

I need to look at one more thing before pulling the tranny. I need to have someone inside and see it there is not enough travel and the fork arm is hitting the bell housing. It seems like there is not a lot of room for movement but that may just be my perception.

The bell housing did not come with the engine and I got it from Craigslist. Maybe there was a change and this one is older and is just no compatible? I may have to source out another bell housing and clutch assembly.

[mookiex4]

Not yet. I just got all of the engine work done and the engine running like a top last Saturday. I took apart everything and re-installed it all myself one piece at a time.

I started at the pedal, Installed the push rod from the pedal to the Bell Crank and then the push rod from the Bell Crank to the Fork. I can move the fork by hand but not enough to release the clutch. The truck does not roll when in gear. I started the truck out of gear and it will not go into gear on its' own or when the pedal is depressed for what little it does move.

I need to look at one more thing before pulling the tranny. I need to have someone inside and see it there is not enough travel and the fork arm is hitting the bell housing. It seems like there is not a lot of room for movement but that may just be my perception.

The bell housing did not come with the engine and I got it from Craigslist. Maybe there was a change and this one is older and is just no compatible? I may have to source out another bell housing and clutch assembly.

Originally Posted by Greg63

Did you ever figure this out?
Greg.

[tincan1966]

How about some pictures of the pedal all the way up and down as far as you can push it. If the upper clutch pedal stop is damaged or missing up under the dash, you would be way extended on adjustment trying to get rid of free travel at the top of the pedal stroke.
Also, I believe the arms on the bell crank or "Z" bar are different lengths, any way it could be in backwards, with short throw to clutch fork?

Just split-balling a few ideas.

let us know what you find.

[mookiex4]

Thanks for Spit Ballin' It got me thinking. The Bell Crank can only install one way. One side slides into a pivot ball on the engine and the other bolts onto the bracket at the frame. I do have two different styles of Forks.

The one in it is definitely different form the extra one and it matches the forks I am finding when I look them up on sites like Rockauto.com and Napa. I will have to see if the installed fork is actually hitting the back of the hole on the bell housing.

Originally Posted by tincan1966

How about some pictures of the pedal all the way up and down as far as you can push it. If the upper clutch pedal stop is damaged or missing up under the dash, you would be way extended on adjustment trying to get rid of free travel at the top of the pedal stroke.
Also, I believe the arms on the bell crank or "Z" bar are different lengths, any way it could be in backwards, with short throw to clutch fork?

Just split-balling a few ideas.

let us know what you find.