14 Bolt Read End Drum Brakes Removal?

[savatreatabvr]

The rear brakes on my 1973 Chevy C20 Custom Deluxe 454 need replaced, I've removed the drums on my 1978 Z28 before but they were nothing like the drums on my C20's 14 bolt rear end. Any helpful hits on drum removal or step process?

[mrolds88]

It's a bit more involved than a Z28. To start, you have to pull the axle. Then there is a clip, a key and 2 nuts on the spindle you need to remove. There is a washer in between that ha ears on that you have to bend out, once they are removed, you can remove the outer bearing. Then the whole hub/drum. If you need to replace the drum, you will have to drive out the wheel studs. Be careful driving them out. Use something soft to protect the threads. I use heavy strips of aluminum that I happen to have. Brass works too.

[willett]

I use an old lug nut to drift out the studs. Don't forget to have a drip tray under the hub when you slide the axle out, you will lose a couple ounces of gear oil per side. Don't forget to buy new axle seals as well. I always do hub seals too regardless of wether or not they are leaking

[tucsonjwt]

If we are also talking replacing the wheel seals, here is an excerpt from a previous thread and my experience with leaking seals ruining brakes:

Just a note about your oil leak. I have an 83 C20 3/4 ton and had differential oil contaminate my big rear brake shoes. I had new "wheel seals" installed (I call them axle seals) and the seals leaked a few months later. The first time the leak was not too bad, the second time it was massive, and I needed to replace those expensive rear shoes. The leak was caused by defective GM wheel seals. If you search the internet, you will find even late model floating axles on GM trucks with leaking seals. GM has since come out with a new 2 piece seal (works like a bearing with an inner and outer race), rather than the 1 piece rubber seal they have traditionally used. This fixed the leak problem. I don't know if your Dana 70 is a floating axle, but I would look into fixing the leak first - and get the new 2 piece style seal if you have a floating axle. All seemed to agree that soaked shoes could not be cleaned effectively - in my case, I found out because I had no brakes at all when trying to stop.

I think the 2 piece seal is GM part number 15823962 but I am not sure, so check to see if it is really a two piece seal. All I know is that the standard one piece seal cost me a lot of money in ruined parts and unnecessary labor.

[83GMCK2500]

Starting at post 224, in this thread, Tx_Firefighter starts to outline his 14 bolt axle and brake rebuild, darn good reading and axle porn in his thread.

[savatreatabvr]

Originally Posted by mrolds88

It's a bit more involved than a Z28. To start, you have to pull the axle. Then there is a clip, a key and 2 nuts on the spindle you need to remove. There is a washer in between that ha ears on that you have to bend out, once they are removed, you can remove the outer bearing. Then the whole hub/drum. If you need to replace the drum, you will have to drive out the wheel studs. Be careful driving them out. Use something soft to protect the threads. I use heavy strips of aluminum that I happen to have. Brass works too.

WHAT? Oh wow, I didn't realize I had to pull the axles! There's a little 2 bay Mexican tire shop near where I live and they said they'd do my rear brakes for $60 if I supply the pads. I'm thinking I'll have them do it, lol!

[ironroad9c1]

depending on the year the drums will ether slip off ,like your camaro or the hub is part the drum and like someone said , you will have to pull the axle shafts and remove the spindle nuts like the front hubs on a 4wd.

[willett]

It's not really a big deal. I can have both sides done in well under 2 hours.
The tire shop your talking probably doesn't know you have a full floater.

[dieseldawg142]

Originally Posted by savatreatabvr

WHAT? Oh wow, I didn't realize I had to pull the axles! There's a little 2 bay Mexican tire shop near where I live and they said they'd do my rear brakes for $60 if I supply the pads. I'm thinking I'll have them do it, lol!

don't sweat it, you don't need to crack open the diff, undue 8 bolts & they slide right out. what you want to watch out for is when you yank that 100lb drum off, keep toes & fingers clear.
i don't know 'bout $60 bucks to do pads on a 14b, lot of work for the money.
sounds sketchy for your ability to SAFELY stop
as mentioned, pull the clips & key, nuts & unbolt your axles

good chance you'll find something like this

if your not replacing your drums, at least change your seals, it's why my brakes fubared

do you really want to scrimp in this area? i junked everything

[savatreatabvr]

Originally Posted by dieseldawg142

don't sweat it, you don't need to crack open the diff, undue 8 bolts & they slide right out. what you want to watch out for is when you yank that 100lb drum off, keep toes & fingers clear.
i don't know 'bout $60 bucks to do pads on a 14b, lot of work for the money.
sounds sketchy for your ability to SAFELY stop
as mentioned, pull the clips & key, nuts & unbolt your axles
Attachment 1173965
good chance you'll find something like this
Attachment 1173967
if your not replacing your drums, at least change your seals, it's why my brakes fubared
Attachment 1173966
do you really want to scrimp in this area? i junked everything
Attachment 1173968 Attachment 1173970

Ok, so I loosen the 8 bolts, pull the read diff cover, pull the clips and keys inside and the axles slide right out, right? LOL, if I screw this up I'm up Sh-t Creek without a paddle! Got anymore pics of your rear brakes adventure?

[rs74]

Originally Posted by savatreatabvr

LOL, if I screw this up I'm up Sh-t Creek without a paddle!

Hey, that's up my way.

[LONGHAIR]

No, you don't have to remove the differential cover. The axles un-bolt from the outside, there are no "clips" holding them in.

[dieseldawg142]

Originally Posted by savatreatabvr

Ok, so I loosen the 8 bolts, pull the read diff cover, pull the clips and keys inside and the axles slide right out, right? LOL, if I screw this up I'm up Sh-t Creek without a paddle! Got anymore pics of your rear brakes adventure?

actually have that backwards.
undo these 8 bolts, tap the axle with a hammer & they slide right out.

then the lock washer, spindle lock nut, another washer, & another nut. you can see the spindle nut, you will need a special socket, or use a screwdriver & hammer & tap it out.
once there all out pull off the drum

[savatreatabvr]

Originally Posted by dieseldawg142

actually have that backwards.
undo these 8 bolts, tap the axle with a hammer & they slide right out.
Attachment 1174102
then the lock washer, spindle lock nut, another washer, & another nut. you can see the spindle nut, you will need a special socket, or use a screwdriver & hammer & tap it out.
once there all out pull off the drum
Attachment 1174104 Attachment 1174105

Thank you very much for the pics! I guess the socket for the front hubs on my old Bronco won't work, lol! Sounds like a 2 or 3 man job. time to call in some friends! Looks like I'm buying the beer this weekend! It's either going to be a success story or a horror story so the 3rd man is for taking pics, lol!

[tucsonjwt]

Here is a youtube video on how to get 'er done. He has some clever techniques for special method of seal removal (about 7:50 minutes into the video.) Plus, you can see the proper clothes to wear for this task - same thing I wear when going to the pick and pull.

1980 chevy 3/4 ton rear axle seal replacement -...

[savatreatabvr]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

Here is a youtube video on how to get 'er done. He has some clever techniques for special method of seal removal (about 7:50 minutes into the video.) Plus, you can see the proper clothes to wear for this task - same thing I wear when going to the pick and pull.

1980 chevy 3/4 ton rear axle seal replacement - YouTube

Unbelievable! I searched YouTube for anything on 14 bolt rear ends and didn't find much. Those are the good ol boys you want on your side if you ever run into a situation at your local neighborhood dive bar, lol! Reminds me of some good ol boys I knew in Oklahoma way back when and I'll also replace the seals while I'm at it. Thank you for this video, it's been a big help!

[83GMCK2500]

I wish I could take a pic/video of it, but I have a much faster way of pulling that inner seal.

Tools required, reasonably long handled prybar (18"+) and a length of 1" pipe or a section of shovel handle, something about 3' long that fits through the hub. After it's off the truck, remove hub from drum. Insert pipe/handle into hub longitudinally, in the outer end and up to the seal, take prybar and hook under seal, bracing against opposite edge of hub, pipe and prybar are approximately 100 degrees from each other, now pull together. The longer the prybar, obviously the more leverage you have, but I can pop those seals out in seconds with this method. If you use the shovel handle or something similar you are guaranteed not to F--- up the race that is pressed in the hub, but even using the pipe I haven't dinged/marred one up.

If you have a bench vise that isn't going anywhere (i.e. securely anchored) you can put the hub in the vise and pry the seal out that way too, no pipe/handle required.

[savatreatabvr]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

I wish I could take a pic/video of it, but I have a much faster way of pulling that inner seal.

Tools required, reasonably long handled prybar (18"+) and a length of 1" pipe or a section of shovel handle, something about 3' long that fits through the hub. After it's off the truck, remove hub from drum. Insert pipe/handle into hub longitudinally, in the outer end and up to the seal, take prybar and hook under seal, bracing against opposite edge of hub, pipe and prybar are approximately 100 degrees from each other, now pull together. The longer the prybar, obviously the more leverage you have, but I can pop those seals out in seconds with this method. If you use the shovel handle or something similar you are guaranteed not to F--- up the race that is pressed in the hub, but even using the pipe I haven't dinged/marred one up.

If you have a bench vise that isn't going anywhere (i.e. securely anchored) you can put the hub in the vise and pry the seal out that way too, no pipe/handle required.

I appreciate the info and will keep it in mind, thanks!