A few questions before i commit

[72c10suburban]

Im planning on a LSx swap in my suburban in the next couple months. Im planning on a 5.3/4L60 combo with a cam swap. I know the fuel system will vary based on the year of the engine that i choose, but plan on ordering a new gas tank kit and using the weld in ring kit from vetteworks and running a factory pump.

My main concern is motor mounts. I won't be running A/C from the get go and when i do, i'm fine with one of the holley high mount kits for the compressor. i really dont want to have the drive shaft modified. Currently, the trans is a th-350 and i believe the yoke will work with the 4l60. I am leaning towards the DD slider mounts and swapping to the 73-87 stands.

My questions are will these mounts allow enough adjustment so the drive shaft wont have to be modified? Are there any plate type mounts that would work just as well?

[solidaxel]

I used Dirty Dingo and my driveshaft lined up in the same position as my TH350, shift linkage also in the same location, 5.3/4L60E

[BR3W CITY]

Why is it so common for people to not want to shorten the driveshaft? Its one of the cheaper things in the swap, and unless you previously had a special shaft built, many times you'll end up with a stronger shaft then before, and of course the option to upgrade the u-joints.
If you have to slide your engine too far for or aft, you'll run into bigger problems that a modded driveshaft. Be wary of things like the coil pack clearance to the fire wall, and where your headers can exit. Engine position can change the header clearance by a good margin.

[truckdude239]

I used dirty dingo slider mount s and still had to shorten mine 6 inches and yes the yoke from the th350 will work. I only paid 60 dollars to shorten my drive shaft

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Why is it so common for people to not want to shorten the driveshaft? Its one of the cheaper things in the swap, and unless you previously had a special shaft built, many times you'll end up with a stronger shaft then before, and of course the option to upgrade the u-joints.
If you have to slide your engine too far for or aft, you'll run into bigger problems that a modded driveshaft. Be wary of things like the coil pack clearance to the fire wall, and where your headers can exit. Engine position can change the header clearance by a good margin.

^^^^^ This.

By the time you buy more expensive slider mounts, you could have almost paid to have the driveshaft shortened and done it the right way. I usually have the driveshaft shortened and let the shop put new u joints in at the same time.I also know its balanced when its done, since a 40 year old driveshaft can sometimes not be very well balanced.

[solidaxel]

How about the shift linkage?

[truckdude239]

my stock shift linkage lined right up to the 460le i just used the braket off the th-350 i had

[72c10suburban]

very true on the price. I had to have the driveshaft shortened on my toyota by a local shop and it only ran 40 bucks. by the time i buy the sliders and run down the correct 73-87 stands, plus take back the mounts i have now and buy the later style, seems like getting the drive shaft modded isnt too big of an issue. hopefully the factory column shift linkage will be close enough to work without too much modification.