1987 2wd Jimmy, Project (Cheap a$$)

[CamaroChris]

Hey Fellas,
I'm starting a new build to put together a advertisement for my little business I have started here locally. (This build thread is not to get business off this forum without being a vendor) I wanted to show people around town what I can do In the engine swapping department :P

The build wont be too fancy, and I'll be trying to keep it as close to a small budget as possible while still making a dependable daily driven truck.

I bought a 74ish 2wd blazer about 2 years ago that was cut up by the previous owner in the hopes of building a rat rod out of it. I bought it for $200
towed it to my shop and its been sitting since.

Last week I scored a running 1987 4x4 Jimmy with only 2 rust spots on the entire truck (which is rare in SALT Lake City) for just $500

So far, here is the plans for the build. I want to be finished With this list in 3 months or less Hopefully.

• Strip Frame, sandblast and coat in POR15
• Install all new steering components, Bushings and bolts
• Add 5/6 drop
• Add rear disk brakes to the 12 bolt
• New fuel lines, brake lines
• Install 650+ hp engine Swap and 4l80e Trans
• Put body on a rotisserie to seal and undercoat
• Put body back on the frame and start daily driving

A couple questions I have.

This 2wd body is already lowered with a axle flip and something to match up front. I have no ideas how much its lowered. any Idea on how to tell what has been done already?

I really want to turn some power out of this truck. what should I plan on doing to the chassis to prepare for it? Will axle wrap be a problem?

And last, Is it reasonable to believe that If this thing gets low to the ground with front and rear sway bars and poly bushings that it will handle pretty well?

Anyway, pictures of last nights progress.


















The 1987 Jimmy

[BaggedRanger]

Good luck on the build.. I can tell just by the pics though what you started off was a 76 or newer Blazer.. If it was 73-75 the rear floor goes all the way to right behind the front seats.. It looks like from your pics the rear seat doesn't kick up until after the rear seat which would make it a 76 and later model.

[CamaroChris]

Yeah! This body was swapped before. After stripping the frame I noticed that it was once a 4x4 frame thatwas cut in half and a 2wd frame was welded onto the front. Which has me bothered. So iI'm going to scrap the frame and convert the 87 frame to 2wd. Is there and major differences that will be a problem in doing that? Can't I just make a template and drill new holes in the 4x4 frame or is it more complex then that?

[BaggedRanger]

They are the exact same frames. Find a 2wd truck and pull the crossmember and a-arms off and you will have a 2wd truck. The other difference is the 4wd shackles are longer in the rear than a 2wd. They actually hang below the frame while the 2wd are roughly even with the frame rails.

I am kind of doing the same thing myself. Was in the process of bagging my 74 and found out the front had been wrecked and was fixed poorly. So I found a 74 4wd frame for $150 and we are going to swap that out for the 2wd.. The best part if I don't have to worry to much about the front since I have a porterbuilt front for it. For bagging that is the only way to go..

[CamaroChris]

I'm thinking about boxing the frame. DIY4X makes kit to do so. Will this make a huge difference in handling characteristics rather than just leaving the frame how it is. I figure it will cost a $400 to finish boxing it. With welding labor and the kit price. Any opinions?

[CamaroChris]

[crazyhenryj]

Chris, I like the idea with the 2wd conversion, I like the 2wd blazers but here in swamp country everything is 4wd.
Looks like the blue trailer is at max capacity

The blue tank on the wall is your compressor tank? Can you get a pic of the compressor set up. This looks like a great idea. Who makes it?

[CamaroChris]

I'll post a picture. This compressor set up does 29.6 cfm at 175 psi

[CamaroChris]

I mounted my front K-member tonight to the 4x4 frame. I used thin cardboard to make a temp-let of the 3 holes on the bottom of the frame. couple things I'm worried about.

the 4x4 frame was 1/4" narrower than the 2wd frame. after I cut out the very front cross-member the frame widened enough. Is this ok?

also how perfect does the k-member have to be straight. If its off 1/16" or less off from front to back make a huge difference? or can that be accounted for in the alignment.

[dragonball98312]

Originally Posted by BaggedRanger

Good luck on the build.. I can tell just by the pics though what you started off was a 76 or newer Blazer.. If it was 73-75 the rear floor goes all the way to right behind the front seats.. It looks like from your pics the rear seat doesn't kick up until after the rear seat which would make it a 76 and later model.

78 and later blazers is what you meant. And are you keeping the jimmy a manual or going auto?

[Jonboy]

something else to keep in mind is to reinforce the rockers. The 75-75 trucks had rocker boxes to compensate for the missing top; if you slice the roof off and don't reinforce the rockers the truck will flex at the door to 1/4 joint. I had a 77 that was cut that did it bad (like watching the door gap close while going down the highway bad). There were no 2wd Blazers after 1982, but the crossmember is easy enough to swap, as you noticed. I would think you could pick up 1/16th in the alignment, or slot the holes and shift it if needed.

[CamaroChris]

It will get an auto 4l80e

[CamaroChris]

My $1300 Ebay order showed up today
Poly body bushings
Poly A-arm bushings
Poly leaf spring bushings
Champion 3 core radiator with dual 14" fans and shroud
Cpp brake portioning valve
McGaughys 2.5" drop spindles
McGaughys 2" drop springs
25' 3/16 brake line
Walbro 400 in-tank fuel pump
Complete front end rebuild kit

I'm excited for tomorrow. I pick up the frame from the blasters. also have to pick up a trans kit so I can build my 4l80e. now the fun begins.

[motornut]

Hi looks like quite a project!
IIRC the front axle tracks wider then the back
not sure if that carrys threw the frame
any sign of a vin plate in the drivers door jam
78 was there,79 dash

[CamaroChris]

I've completely scrapped the black blazer and the frame it was on. Its all cut up in little pieces. The only thing I'm using from it is the 2wd cross member and a-arms. Everything is going on the 87 frame and body. I'm on my way to pick up the frame I'm excited. Should be ready to put the body on next week. I just need to find a rotisserie so I can have the under carriage blasted.

[CamaroChris]

Caster mod complete.

Frame finished

[CamaroChris]

more stuff finished
Caster mod


Frame painted

[kevinr1970]

Originally Posted by BaggedRanger

Good luck on the build.. I can tell just by the pics though what you started off was a 76 or newer Blazer.. If it was 73-75 the rear floor goes all the way to right behind the front seats.. It looks like from your pics the rear seat doesn't kick up until after the rear seat which would make it a 76 and later model.

Would the orientation of where the floor drops matter when swapping on a newer body?
Are there any modifications that would need to be done if it is the older style, with the floor dropping closer to the front seats?

[CamaroChris]

Tonight I almost finished assembling the new engine for the Jimmy. Had to do something while paint was drying.

[PAPABEAR]

Awesome build! iam also doing a 4x4 2wd conversion.Any updates? Btw by any chance do you still have the front spring hangers from the 2wd frame?

[CamaroChris]

Rear shackle flip


Getting the engine all fit in.

[BaggedRanger]

Like the progress so far..

[kevinr1970]

I thought I had read that when doing lowering shackles, they had interference wiht the filler tube for the gas tank?
If true, what are your plans around that?

Originally Posted by CamaroChris

Rear shackle flip

[CamaroChris]

Originally Posted by kevinr1970

I thought I had read that when doing lowering shackles, they had interference with the filler tube for the gas tank?
If true, what are your plans around that?

I'm sure lowering shackles would hit the filler neck if too long. I'm not using lowering shackles because they do not work well when trying to gain good handling. I instead built my own shackle flip. If I used lowering shackles on this new set up it would in fact lift the blazer instead of lowering it.

[kevinr1970]

I was referring to the material sticking above the frame, but looks like you took care of that!

Are you spacing the hangars off the frame?