John Lees wiper motor tune up

[Sharps40]

The 1965 one speed wiper motor gets bacon fryin hot after 20 minutes or so of use. We're entering the spring monsoon season here in Central NC, it rains from Feb to June every day, 7 days a week and only when yer drivin yer truck. So rather than keep turning wipers on and off to keep the motor cool, I have the functional motor out of Ol John Lee the similar but sadly smashed by knuckle heads 1964 C10.

Ride along as we change out the 49 year old tired burnin up motor for the 50 year old better functioning an cooler runnin wiper motor.

[1963c-10]

hey rich, i still have that motor for you w/washer option

[Sharps40]

The 1964 motor from the wreck, on the bench, cleaned, terminals scuffed bright, ground too and looking ready for service.



Protect the paint, release the hold down tab with a sharp hook, pop the wiper arm off the drive spud * 2.



Remove the seven Phillips screws holding the cowl and seal to the cab.



Remove the cowl and seal.



The wipers should have been in the full parked position....lock the transmission arms against turning and remove the jamb nut that holds it all together on the output shaft of the wiper motor.

[Rich 5150 69]

The wiper motor in my truck I ground the rivets off and took the gear box completely apart, using two gear boxes too make up one good gearbox, one had bad gear in it, from lack of grease, so after cleaning everything and using white moly, had to open up rivet holes for bolt size used stainless bolts and nuts, the motor can be rebuilt, with new brushes but you`ll have to source the brushes, mine were good at the time so all was left as it was...( calf truck )

[Sharps40]

With suitable prying tools, thin bladed screwdrivers, carefully pop the transmission arm off the wiper output shaft. Don't use heat, there is a much needed rubber grease cup under that transmission arm....dont' know if you can get replacements. The grease cup is the brown and blue rubber doughnut on the output shaft.



Under the dash, disconnect power and remove the three screws that hold the motor in place....it'll either stick darn tight or fall onto your face scratching yer glasses...be ready for both.



Here the tar like gasket goo stuck to the dash...good. On the 64 it stuck to the motor. Do NOT DESTROY THE GOO. You need it to seal the motor to the hole in the cowl....I have no idea what you would use to replace this if you destroy the goo. Remember, even in the 60s Goo, though in its infancy was found to be GOOD! Still is, specially Blu Goo.



Back to the bench, I scrape the goo from the 64 motor I'll be installing. I'll save this goo in a plastic bag case I need it in the future. The burning up 65 motor is on the right, its goo remained on the dash.



Remove the rear bearing grease cup from the 64 motor I'll be installing, pack it with grease and reinstall. Now the rear bearing will be greased by the flat portions of the output shaft pulling grease into the bushing and shaft.

[Sharps40]

Flip the 64 motor over....CAREFULLY remove the front greese cup....clean it and the shaft and pack the cup with a dab of grease and reinstall the cup. Now there is a water barrier between the elements and the forward bearing and it will pull in a bit of grease as needed....I'm sure a dollop of WD40 got into each front and rear bearing when I cleaned the 64 motor on the bench this morning.



Install the 64 motor in the 65 dash. I put a light coat of grease on the front of the motor to mate up to and seal against the goo that was left on the dashboard....The goo should be watertight as its still stuck to the dash, the dab of grease between the motor and the dashboard goo blob should help against moisture intrusion between motor and goo as the goo was no longer sticky on the motor side.



If you looked at your transmission position when you disassembled, put it back together in the same position, it'll either be right or be out 180....in this case, I am out 180 degrees and my wipers park in the vertical position....easy peasy, pull the transmission arm from the output shaft of the motor, rotate the motor by hand 180 degrees and reassemble...test...if its now correct, tighten the jamb nut that holds transmission arm to output shaft.



Wiper now parks in the proper position after making a smooth and jerk free sweep. New (old) motor runs much quieter. At this point I lubricated the transmission links with WD40 and shot some into the spuds that the wipers connect to.



Reassemble the cowl. Cycle the wipers, adjust the blades and arms as necessary so that park is fully down as low as they will go without contacting windshield rubber.

Go ride in the rain.

[TR65]

Thanks for the great write-up Sharps.

I have a new motor ready to install in my 65 and this post will be a big help.

TR

[Sharps40]

Find sealer goo for the motor to dash. The Original seems to be asphalt base with a lotta fiber in it.

[ljackson]

Thanks for the write up Sharps. I was reading this earlier today. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=527 He mentions "The gasket that goes between the wiper motor and the wiper mount, I picked up from LMC. To give some more sealing in this area I put some glass ribbon sealer on the edge of the wiper mount and after the motor was in smoothed the seal out with my finger on the outside area. Maybe this will help prevent any leaking, the installation drawing doesn’t show any seal being used".

[grs]

My one speed motor makes a little noise. I plane to buy one with a life time warranty. I will replace it when I install a CD player in the truck. How fast do the wipers work? Would you say they are slow , or fairly fast?

[Sharps40]

The originals run bout fast. Enough for All but gully washers. I plan to replace my choke wif a wiper delay cause I gotta lectric choke and one speed is too fast for 60 percent of the rain anyway.

[Sharps40]

Yep. I see LMC hassa seal fer our trucks. $4.95 + 200fourtyeleven dollars fer shippin. But betterin nothin.

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

The originals run bout fast. Enough for All but gully washers. I plan to replace my choke wif a wiper delay cause I gotta lectric choke and one speed is too fast for 60 percent of the rain anyway.

Are you going to go with this one? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=592083

"Price reduced, $52 shipped except to Canada(+$9)

This is the "next gen" wiper delay. The first gen saw much success in the 67-72 forum. This revised model will fit 60-72 MY's. 100% reversible and installs in minutes. Gives you approx. 3-30 seconds of delay and does not require harness cutting, splicing or soldering. The video shows the "install" in my 72, installing it in your 60-66 will be very similar. Instructions specific to 60-66 are included. $52 shipped(Con US). Canada +$9. A big thank you to CaptainFab as he was instrumental in making the adaptation to the 60-66 MY's possible".

[Sharps40]

I would like to specially if I can get it so I can put the choke knob on it in the dash right nex to the wiper switch. Resta the guts inna box can go elsewhere unner tha dash.

Sorry on typin. Kindle one finger dance so dropin letters fer ease.

[Sharps40]

Tried em this morning on the way to work...nice smooth and faster wipe. No noise. Parks nicely. Just in time too. Winter mix headin the Sandhills tomorrow with sleet, freezing rain, snow and Combat Driving Programs implemented!

[bama63]

ok sharps the insulation around the motor is Cork/Tar Insulating Tape, i found mine at the local hvac supplier, 12.00 bucks for a 25 ft roll, it used on pipes and fittings on home and auto ac systems to prevent sweating and water intrusion. hope this helps.

[Sharps40]

Dude you got enough cork tar to insulat 542,000 C10 wiper motors! That's a lotta Goo!

Thanks for the info. If mine leaks I'll getta blob of that stuff to fixerate it with!

Cork tar....betcha a knot of it'd make a good fire starter too....prolly oughta check and if so, put a lump or three in the hunting pack for emergencies.