Sarge's rattle-can rebuild

[68Timber]

I'm going to work on it some this afternoon, but I had to take it for a drive this morning. Rides good but needs an alignment.

[joe231]

Looks good!!

[48cj2a]

That looks great!

[68Timber]

Thanks guys. I'm diggin it. I'm doing a little detail work on the rear now. I'm trying to get all the bumper bolts off - what a pain... But I have to so I can install the rear filler panel I have for it, and I'm freshening up the tail lights as well. I don't have much time to work on it tomorrow but maybe I can get the rest of the bolts off.

[Boog]

Good early morning John.
Man ol Sarge is starting to look like something now. The lift, wheel and tire change make it look like a totally different vehicle. Sort of fresh and ready instead of tired and worn out. What sort of tail panel do you have in mind? Have you sourced a new rubber floor mat for the interior?

[68Timber]

Hey, Jim. I have a rear bumper filler panel that I got at the pick-n-pull and new bolts for it from LMC. I know this kind of goes against the grain for an old truck like this, but I want carpet with some kind of sound deadener underneath. Maybe some Lizard Skin if I can get enough to do both trucks at a decent price. No bed-liner interior for me, I like my creature comforts.

[Boog]

Oh yeah. I remember that little strip of filler on my 85 Blazer. Gives a finished look to it and helps keep trail splash from coming up in there.
I mentioned the factory rubber floor mat as that is what my 85 had. It sure made cleaning it easy enough. I work in a dirt, sand, muddy yard so the rubber mat worked out real good for me. Yeah, I miss that truck. At the time I sold it I thought I needed a pickup instead. Still like the Blazers though.
I've forgotten the particulars of your truck. 6.2 Diesel, manual, no air or pwr steering?

[68Timber]

I've had a couple of trucks with the rubber floor mat and it is pretty convenient and easy to maintain. I'm not sure if they're reproduced though. Some of the Husky liner type floor mats will be fine though for what I'll do with it. My mudding and wheeling days are over. This is a 6.2/TH400 PS/PB (hydroboost) truck. I have an SM465 to swap in but I'm going to make it more livable first.

[Boog]

Ah, ok. You got a nicer one. And I remember you finding the clutch pedal and bellhousing parts a while back.
My 85 didn't have a fancy interior. With the rubber mat and vinyl seats it had no interior quarter panels. No spare tire cover, etc. Just a basic K5 Blazer. It was just an allweather means of transportation for the original owners. When I got it the tailgate hinges were rusted tight. The rear rubber mat looked like brand new so they didn't carry anything in the back. The truck had a power rear window, no console, rallys with trim rings, 305/auto od, ps, pb, no tilt, no wheel well trim, no side moldings, no rear side window vents. It was doeskin tan allover. It was 10 yrs old with 69,000 miles when I bought it. No dents, no rust and no previous body damage. It was a rare K5 find. So yeah, I wish I still had it.

[68Timber]

I haven't got to the instrument cluster yet, but decided to try the gloss white paint trick here. This works GREAT!

[Boog]

That ought to brighten them up. I have wondered how well the chrome spray paint would work on these.
Have you polished up the lenses or plan to replace them?

[68Timber]

I bought new lenses. I got the idea from all the gauge cluster refurb threads I've read here. A few guys have tried silver or "chrome" paint, but most report that gloss white works best for brightening the gauge cluster illumination up so that's what I went with.

[motornut]

Originally Posted by Boog

That ought to brighten them up. I have wondered how well the chrome spray paint would work on these.
Have you polished up the lenses or plan to replace them?

gloss white worked greatin the cluster,I even added red LEDs as well
I'd say it the best lighting improvement I've done, at the cheapest cost
here post 200
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=421767&page=3

[68Timber]

I finally finished what I wanted to do to the back of the truck. The receiver hitch was added months ago but I just now found a trailer light harness that is plug and play and got that on. I also got the filler panel straight and mounted with new hardware from LMC and got some new bumper bolts while I was at it - all of it painted of course, shiny bolts wouldn't work here. The tail light housings were painted gloss white and I put some new reproduction lenses on as well. I left the division markings painted on the left side of the tailgate but repainted over the unit number on the right side with the project name. I also added the tractor-style flood light although it's not wired in yet. There is reflective tape glue residue on the tailgate, I need to hit that with some Goo Gone and a toothbrush and see if I can get any of it off, but I'm otherwise pretty much done on the back end. The doors are next.

[Willowrun]

Looks great! I spliced in to the original tail light wiring when I added a hitch but I would rather have plug and play. Could you provide more info on what you used?

[68Timber]

I read on another site that CUCV's used a trailer wiring harness for a 1983 C/K truck. I ordered one for an '83 and it plugged in behind/under the left tail light as advertised.

[Tx Firefighter]

It's a pleasure to read threads like this. I really enjoy seeing a build on a working man's budget scale. Definitely subscribed.

[48cj2a]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

I read on another site that CUCV's used a trailer wiring harness for a 1983 C/K truck. I ordered one for an '83 and it plugged in behind/under the left tail light as advertised.

Have you tried the harness on an actual trailer yet?

I've read somewhere and was of the impression that the CUCV harness is an odd ball in itself and if you use something like the Hoppy harness plug you will need one on each side and then have to to "T" those outputs into a single trailer plug other wise you will only get lamps on one side of the trailer...hope I explained that correctly.

I could be all wrong just haven't got that far on mine yet.

Hoppy 41105:

[48cj2a]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

I finally finished what I wanted to do to the back of the truck. The receiver hitch was added months ago but I just now found a trailer light harness that is plug and play and got that on. I also got the filler panel straight and mounted with new hardware from LMC and got some new bumper bolts while I was at it - all of it painted of course, shiny bolts wouldn't work here. The tail light housings were painted gloss white and I put some new reproduction lenses on as well. I left the division markings painted on the left side of the tailgate but repainted over the unit number on the right side with the project name. I also added the tractor-style flood light although it's not wired in yet. There is reflective tape glue residue on the tailgate, I need to hit that with some Goo Gone and a toothbrush and see if I can get any of it off, but I'm otherwise pretty much done on the back end. The doors are next.

If your Blackout Lamps still work you might be able to splice your backup lamp in that right bumper black out lamp circuit and operate it from the dash switch

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

It's a pleasure to read threads like this. I really enjoy seeing a build on a working man's budget scale. Definitely subscribed.

Thanks Kevin.

Originally Posted by 48cj2a

Have you tried the harness on an actual trailer yet?

I've read somewhere and was of the impression that the CUCV harness is an odd ball in itself and if you use something like the Hoppy harness plug you will need one on each side and then have to to "T" those outputs into a single trailer plug other wise you will only get lamps on one side of the trailer...hope I explained that correctly.

I could be all wrong just haven't got that far on mine yet.

Hoppy 41105:

That is the plug style I used and I have not tested it yet. Ever notice how sons can be scarce when you need them? I've read some of the hoops guys go through just to get trailer lights to work with a CUCV so testing them is certainly on the list. I'll get one of my boys to help me check them this evening.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by 48cj2a

I've read somewhere and was of the impression that the CUCV harness is an odd ball in itself and if you use something like the Hoppy harness plug you will need one on each side and then have to to "T" those outputs into a single trailer plug other wise you will only get lamps on one side of the trailer...hope I explained that correctly.

Ok, I've got left side brake/turn/running lights, so I guess I'll need to order another plug. I hate to "T" into a wire, its so hack. I guess that's what liquid tape is for.

Thanks for the warning, I have an outing coming up with my sons and had confidence in the plug. If there is a cleaner way to splice them together, let me know.

[48cj2a]

How long are the pig tails? Are they long enough to run to a central plug that could be soldered or attach by set screws?

[68Timber]

They are long enough to meet in the middle between the hitch and the tank, I'll just T the right side into the left I guess.

[Boog]

I like the plug n play hookups available these days. If the connector you now have doesn't fully work maybe there is only a bad connection at that point or trouble in the right side harness. Weak grounds are common causes of lite problems. It can makes lights do wierd things.
Also being a military vehicle I'm sure it's wiring is somewhat different than standard civilian vehicles.
How much of the truck operates on 24 volts? Starting system only maybe?

[48cj2a]

Only the starting system is 24v on the CUCV Chevrolet trucks. The wiring harness on these is special because of the compatibility with the military trailer harness plug where all circuits are separate for tail, stop, left, right, blackout etc.

Here is another cheap solution I found on Steelsoldiers:

Or you can buy a cheap flat 4, and a complete 3-pin weatherpack connector (1 male end, 1 female end) and build your own adapter that will plug in right where the military trailer plug connects to the wiring harness. You can switch between military and civilian wiring in about 30 seconds.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...l=1#post932493