What's do I lose???

[imjeff]

I must admit I've never even considered taking an 8 lug to a 5. I think you will be hard pressed to find five lug wheels rated anywhere near eight lug wheels. The minimum weight rating on eight lugs is there for a reason....towing. To each his own, I guess. Call me kooky, but I prefer function.

Jeff

[slimneverdies]

Originally Posted by ksbrktracer

If you are set on doing the five lug setup .... I would just go with the stock truck parts , 12-bolt etc.

You can upgrade thru the aftermarket to 13" or even 14" rotors , Put good quality brakes on the rear , it probably already has hydra-boost , make use of that. And then make sure the trailer brakes are working properly. You may want to at least run heper bags on the rear unless you are going air-ride all around.


I have a 96 1-ton crew cab longbed dually that I cut down to a shortbed and then put 1/2 ton suspension on it. I tow a 24ft enclosed race car trailer with it and have had no problems what so ever.

I understand what everybody is saying about sticking with the 8-lug stuff and I have no disagreements with it ..... I was just after a different look and it seems to work good for me.

I can't lie, I have to many parts to go back now. I was just curious to know exactly what issues I could possibly run into. I bought this truck for the sole purpose of having a crew cab laying frame on big hoops. It will probably tow once or twice a month and that's usually going to be local.

It's pretty obvious I know that what I'm breaking a few of the rules that's why I started this thread. Then again for years I've watch guys pull huge toy trailers with those 73-91 suburbans that usually have the 1/2 ton suspension and never heard of a wheel popping of while towing. My trailer isn't over 5000lbs and has electric braking system. I'm not saying it's right but isn't there a famous Nacho truck that pulls the Poncho truck on a trailer and he's bagged.

[nekkidhillbilly]

i will just cringe at all this

[Jonboy]

I swapped my 8 lug stuff out for 1/2 ton parts and haven't looked back yet. In the front I left the 3/4 ton crossmember, and used 1/2 ton parts from the crossmember out. In the rear, I swapped to 1/2 ton hangers (they are different), and kept the 3/4 ton leafs, which are essentially the same as the heavy half leaf springs. I had a rolling frame I parted out. In hindsight, when I shortened my 3/4 ton, I wish I would have just sectioned in the rear of the 1/2 ton frame. I still have not mounted my rear shocks, and will probably have to find a creative way to do so. If you are wanting to run that big of a wheel, I would look into doing the Porterbuilt truck arm rear suspenson. It would solve a lot of problems for you, IMO. I would really like to, but am having a bit of a hard time justifying the $$$ on a truck that still doesn't run. At the minimum, if you are going 1/2 ton rear, I would put in some kind of air bag leveling system on the rear. My old '74 had one, and it towed about anything Scoti asked it to. I hauled a pallet (80 bags) and 16 extra bags of mulch with it, and the truck took it like a champ.

Before everyone gets their shorts in a wad and starts a dogpile on me because I pulled out a bunch of 40 year old 3/4 ton parts and replaced them with new 1/2 ton parts, I never planned on towing anything more than a car trailer (if even that) with this truck. I wanted a CCSB, and the only viable way to do that was to start with a 3/4 or 1 ton and cut it up. I am not a fan of 8 lug wheels, so I pitched them. If GM had built the truck I wanted in a 1/2 ton version, then it wouldn't have been a question. I bought my truck (and the '89 dually that Scoti now has) with the express notion of cutting it up.

[crashz]

I know people have done this, but look at it from an engineering standpoint:

A crew cab truck will be heavier than the normal 1/2 ton empty. Lets say ~5500 lbs curb weight when done. Add the addtional weight of up to 3 more passengers. 450 lbs + 450 lbs. Now add the weight of a car hauler, which if enclosed is at least ~3500 lbs. Add the car of 2800 lbs. Add fuel and gear ~500 lbs.

Total GCW = 13200 lbs
Total weight in truck = 7080

The problem is that the 1/2 ton gear was never built heavy enough for that loaded GVW. Typical it was around GVWR 6000 lbs total. GCWR is about at the max or a bit more. And this applies to modern day 1/2 ton crew cabs. Look at the GVWR on those. Loaded with pasengers and gas, a big cooler full of beer will put them over weight.

The real big problem here is that you will not really know what you can do withthe truck until it is completley finished and you can weigh each axle. I'd hate to see you build a $40K show truck that can't haul a lunchbox.

The other thought is the legal side. If you get into an accident with your truck, the lawyers can pick you apart for having non-DOT approved modifications done to your truck. I know this is a weak arguement, and nearly all of us would be fodder for it, but be aware that it could happen.

[hartbraker]

I'm the first guy to sit here and say bigger is better, but to claim that the op desired setup won't safely haul and do what he wants to do is a bit absurd. The trailer weight is sitting on wheels. Most trailers are set up for 70/30 weight distribution, 70% of the load remaining with the trailer... so he's just dragging it along for the ride. But while we're on the engineering side of things, you can go ahead a double whatever the gvw the truck was rated for because everything was, is, and will be over engineered when it comes to auto related items due to the unknown and sudden change nature involved with vehicles.

Sure, I'd never do what you're planning to do, but I wouldn't feel uncomfortable jumping in your setup and driving it down the road with a loaded cab and car hauler. Stuff will be lighter duty, and will require much more frequent maintenance. Bearings in axles will wear out faster, upper and lower ball joints... I'd even go as far to say that your transmission and gear oil will get hotter than normal and should require a more watchful eye. But, build it how you want it... it'll do exactly what you want it to do... it'll just cost you more in the long run to have to look you desire. But that's the name of the game everyone on this site is playing. Gotta pay to play

[slimneverdies]

Originally Posted by hartbraker

I'm the first guy to sit here and say bigger is better, but to claim that the op desired setup won't safely haul and do what he wants to do is a bit absurd. The trailer weight is sitting on wheels. Most trailers are set up for 70/30 weight distribution, 70% of the load remaining with the trailer... so he's just dragging it along for the ride. But while we're on the engineering side of things, you can go ahead a double whatever the gvw the truck was rated for because everything was, is, and will be over engineered when it comes to auto related items due to the unknown and sudden change nature involved with vehicles.

Sure, I'd never do what you're planning to do, but I wouldn't feel uncomfortable jumping in your setup and driving it down the road with a loaded cab and car hauler. Stuff will be lighter duty, and will require much more frequent maintenance. Bearings in axles will wear out faster, upper and lower ball joints... I'd even go as far to say that your transmission and gear oil will get hotter than normal and should require a more watchful eye. But, build it how you want it... it'll do exactly what you want it to do... it'll just cost you more in the long run to have to look you desire. But that's the name of the game everyone on this site is playing. Gotta pay to play

I'm not a engineer but I'm thinking the only thing that will be a downgrade on my desired setup is me putting the 2008 Dana 44 in place of the 14 bolt and maybe the wheel package that will be on the rear. The off road guys beat the hell out of these things and I don't think I'll be using mine at 50% of the abuse that they put these thing thru. The suspension setup is a four link with bags on the axle and not even an option for me to keep the leaf spring setup. The engine/tranny is a total upgrade also. It's a 6.0/4l80 with ported Escalade heads and special grind cam that will match any 454's torque that I've seen and a rebuilt 4l80 with some goodies.

This bad boy has been sitting around for at least 2 years now. Time to use it.

[slimneverdies]

One more thing. When I bought this truck about a month ago I noticed that there were new brakes put on front and back. They stop this big sucka but they leave a lot to be desired. Call me crazy but I believe when I put the bigger 14" brakes on here that it will stop this big ass truck in its tracks (even for a crew cab)...

[imjeff]

Originally Posted by slimneverdies

One more thing. When I bought this truck about a month ago I noticed that there were new brakes put on front and back. They stop this big sucka but they leave a lot to be desired. Call me crazy but I believe when I put the bigger 14" brakes on here that it will stop this big ass truck in its tracks (even for a crew cab)...

Sounds like you made up your mind before asking the question. Adding a modern power plant with big block torque and a trans with "goodies" while you downgrade from a full floater to a half ton semi should be interesting. I guess those silly engineers that designed that full floater with extra lugs and bigger u-joints just didn't get it. Good luck....I wouldn't jump on it with a trailer attached though!

[slimneverdies]

Originally Posted by imjeff

Sounds like you made up your mind before asking the question. Adding a modern power plant with big block torque and a trans with "goodies" while you downgrade from a full floater to a half ton semi should be interesting. I guess those silly engineers that designed that full floater with extra lugs and bigger u-joints just didn't get it. Good luck....I wouldn't jump on it with a trailer attached though!

Point taken. Just asking, maybe I will hear some reasoning to make me go another route.

[slimneverdies]

Those silly engineers...