best booster, master combo

[grs]

Which booster, master, and proportion valve is the best. One that CPP sells cost $299.00. The one that Early Classics sell cost $429.00. They could be built by the same company. Some company's have a bigger mark up. I will bay more money to get the best, but I don't want to pay more, and get the worst unit.

[AcampoDave]

Grs, I run disc brakes with no booster at all on my short bed. I don't need to "stand" on the pedal to stop either, plus my engine compatment looks cleaner without it. Just in case you hadn't considered manual disc I thought I'd chime in with a third option.

[brokenspoke]

I bought one from Speedway....I later found out its made by CPP.....They advertise its for the 63-66 chevy trucks....I installed it and all new brake linings, calipers, brake lines....The rear brakes lock up way before the front in a panic stop...I contacted speedway who had CPP contact me....CPP was NO help....They suggested that I add a adjustable proportioning valve.....CPP stated that all combination valves for disk/ drum are the same.....neither company was any help.....I bought a adjustable valve and still need to install it

[brokenspoke]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

Drill the pedal to fix the rear locking. Mechanical pedal ratio is too high for power brakes, lower the ratio and youll be fine. See mu John Lee brake thread for details on the ratio fix. 15 minutes and it will be like totally modern power brakes. Even w proportioning valve, ya still gotta get the pedal ratio lowered a bit

I did and the rear brakes still locked up

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

I did and the rear brakes still locked up

Had same problem on a '65 that had been converted to a dual system--drum-drum--using what appeared a stock 1967-8 mc and without a proportioning valve at all. Installing an adjustable proportioning valve on rear half of system cured the problem completely; took our time, tried multiple settings on a lonely, dry road until we got wheels stopping w/out locking up the rears. Been happy for ~2 years, now.
Sam

[Sharps40]

Rears may be pulled up too tight then or may need to really fine tune a prop valve. They really shouldnd lock unless yer on em in a bit of a panic or a real slick road.

[Snailed]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

I bought one from Speedway....I later found out its made by CPP.....They advertise its for the 63-66 chevy trucks....I installed it and all new brake linings, calipers, brake lines....The rear brakes lock up way before the front in a panic stop...I contacted speedway who had CPP contact me....CPP was NO help....They suggested that I add a adjustable proportioning valve.....CPP stated that all combination valves for disk/ drum are the same.....neither company was any help.....I bought a adjustable valve and still need to install it

They have no way of knowing what brakes you will have on your vehicle. It's hardly their fault. When ever you buy a combination valve it's just a wild guess since EVERYTHING matters...tire diameter, type of friction material F & R, vehicle weight distribution, tire size and compound, shock valving, wheel rates, pedal ratio, master size, caliper size, wheel cylinder size, etc...

Put the adjustable one in an fine tune your setup to meet your needs. I stopped using the "all in one" combination valves since they often not good enough. It's like putting a carburetor on 5 different engines and expecting all of them to be tuned perfectly. It just doesn't happen and likely none of them will run right.

[Indian113]

Has anyone used a Power Brake booster and MC from a S10 on their trucks?

[brokenspoke]

I bled the brakes today.....After three adjustments with the adjustable valve i'm happy with my brakes.....30 dollar valve is all it took

['63GENIII]

For the last 4 years, I have used a CPP master and 10" "kit" power brake unit. Occasionally I would lose the front brakes. By the time I would get to checking them out, they would be working again. About 2 months ago, after losing the front brakes again, I broke down and took the master and booster off. They sat at a weird angle to the firewall, the master was leaking and it was just time to figure it out. I ended up going to O'Reillys of all places and getting a new booster and master (separately) from a '73 - up k30. I installed it with minimal work to the firewall (just a couple more holes). It now sits level, is better supported and the brakes work great like they should have all along. I will probably never buy another CPP product again after this experience. I do agree that the proportioning valve should be adjustable (still running the CPP one) and that the brake pedal arm had to be drilled to align the pushrod and get the ratio right.
I have seen manual disc brakes stop as well as power with little more effort than power...... and it does look way cleaner.
Good luck with your choice

[grs]

Originally Posted by '63GENIII

For the last 4 years, I have used a CPP master and 10" "kit" power brake unit. Occasionally I would lose the front brakes. By the time I would get to checking them out, they would be working again. About 2 months ago, after losing the front brakes again, I broke down and took the master and booster off. They sat at a weird angle to the firewall, the master was leaking and it was just time to figure it out. I ended up going to O'Reillys of all places and getting a new booster and master (separately) from a '73 - up k30. I installed it with minimal work to the firewall (just a couple more holes). It now sits level, is better supported and the brakes work great like they should have all along. I will probably never buy another CPP product again after this experience. I do agree that the proportioning valve should be adjustable (still running the CPP one) and that the brake pedal arm had to be drilled to align the pushrod and get the ratio right.
I have seen manual disc brakes stop as well as power with little more effort than power...... and it does look way cleaner.
Good luck with your choice

How do I know where to drill the hole in the brake pedal arm? What angle?

['63GENIII]

I can measure mine but IIRC, I just made it even or "inline" with the booster. I believe that I didn't have the right amount of travel to begin with.

[Captainfab]

Several of my customers that bought my brake booster bracket have used the S10 boosters. There are a few options with the S10 boosters. You do not have to use a S10 master on a S10 booster.

Originally Posted by Indian113

Has anyone used a Power Brake booster and MC
from a S10 on their trucks?

[Indian113]

Thanks Capt. I like the looks of the S10 booster,I guess it is it's size. I'll have to order your bracket when I do my disc brake change.

[Leroy-B1]

Good thread

[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

I bled the brakes today.....After three adjustments with the adjustable valve i'm happy with my brakes.....30 dollar valve is all it took

Awesome news! Great perseverance too.

[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by grs

How do I know where to drill the hole in the brake pedal arm? What angle?

See post 27 and up of the attached for locating and drilling the Pedal Arm for power brake ratio reduction.

Basically, 1" CTC lower than the upper manual hole, straight thru left to right, its a 3/8" hole.

Check/reset your brake pedal free travel and final adjust the drums and off you go.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=611577

[markeb01]

I ran mine for a while with manual disc brakes up front, until it just got to being too painful with a bad back. I added the single diaphragm booster from Master Power Brakes. The relatively small size makes for plenty of room in the engine bay, and pedal pressure is about the same as my Honda CRV. I don’t know how it compares to any of the other aftermarket boosters.

[tincan1966]

OEM replacement boosters from local auto parts stores work just fine and are a fraction of what all these aftermarket places are charging.

O'Reilly's offers a direct replacement with bracket for the '64-66 trucks for around $140 plus a small core charge if you do not have an exchange.

Pretty simple really. If sticking with drum brakes (like mine) you do not need a proportioning valve, but rather a distribution block, and one from a '67-68 Camaro works good and are not expensive.

[Jeff La]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Several of my customers that bought my brake booster bracket have used the S10 boosters. There are a few options with the S10 boosters. You do not have to use a S10 master on a S10 booster.

What year model year S10 boosters are they using?? Thanks for any info.

[donthekawguy]

I'm going to get a booster/MC for a 75 1/2 ton for mine. I'll spray bomb it and paint the MC with POR15. They are $115 for both.

[Captainfab]

The '82-'02 S10 boosters are all interchangeable. Which one to choose depends on whether you need a dual diaphram or single diaphram. The S10 boosters are not the only boosters that are compatable with my booster brackets. There are many, many OEM boosters, several of which are listed in this thread, post #183

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...=339081&page=8

Originally Posted by Jeff La

What year model year S10 boosters are they using?? Thanks for any info.