CPP Steering box lower front bolt issue

[Bret B]

Bought a complete CPP suspension kit that included power steering conversion. Got the bracket drilled and then drilled out the lower hole as the directions say. Fit the steering box up and attempted to install the lower bolt. The bolt won't seat all the way down because it hits the casting of the steering box. Looks like it needs a minor bit of spot facing to make it seat properly with the washer. Has anyone had this come up before, and what did you do to resolve the problem? Steering box is their CPP 500 that comes in the kit. Went thru 6 pages of archives/search and only found alignment issues with it being canted to high at the rag joint, but nothing on the bolt.

Also, the kit didn't come with power steering hoses, and from what I read, it doesn't. However, when reading thru past threads, the kits came with hoses. Was something missed or did the kits change to where the hoses are no longer included?

Thanks guys, appreciate the assistance before needing to contact CPP tomorrow. If this is something common, I have no problem cleaning the casting to make the bolt head sit flat with the lockwasher. I do believe it will void the CPP warranty though, but not sure.

[Bret B]

Also have a question about the installation of the Idler arm on the passenger side. Not following why there is a spacer and 3 inch bolts. What is the correct installation? Found a few pics of the same idler arm installed on Impala's, which appear to be the same from CPP, but not 100% sure, and the spacer is installed on the outside of the frame rail with the idler attached to it. Needless to say, the instructions aren't really clear.

Haven't found anything pointing to why the steering box lower forward bolt is making contact with the casting either. Anyone have any thoughts, or have run into the same questions?

[Chapstr's65]

Man that's a bummer about the bolt. My kit came with the hoses and I just ordered mine and recived it the other day. When I get home I will check my gear box to see if there are any casting imperfections that would cause the issue and get back with you. Do you have a picture of the bolt not seating properly is it hitting something at the other end? Man I hope when I get to mine I don't have the issues I keep reading about.

[Bret B]

Attached a few pictures of what I've got going. First one is of the box just mounted using three of the four bolts. Second picture is looking at the bolt (bolt is started, no washer) and you can get an idea from the head where it will make contact. Last picture was intended to show the radius on the box with a view of the bolt head, but it didn't turn out. There is no way to put the lock washer on and even start the bolt, let alone 2 washers, the head makes contact with the box with 1/4-5/16 inch remaining to thread in.

[jtrichard]

I would get a socket head(ALLEN) bolt grind the surface where the bolt and washer will hit and call it a day as the ordinal bolt came from the other side and the gear was threaded they did NOT machine the boss for the bolt to go in that way.... or a 12 point like this http://specialty-fasteners.com/produ...2-point-bolts/

[donthekawguy]

I think the bolt goes in thru the frame from the other side. Unless the instructions say to go from the outside. I used the captainfab plate and my power steering box was already installed (incorrectly) on the truck when I got it.

[Bret B]

That is correct donthekawguy, this particular bolt goes from outboard to inboard, and the others all come from inside the frame to outboard. Rez Engineering used a welded in "all thread" bolt to this location when the first brackets became available, not sure what they are doing now.

jtrichard, that was the thought of simply taking some of the material off from the face to allow the bolt head and lockwasher to sit flush. I'm not intimidated to take any material away, but taking to much is the intimidation. Not sure how much extra material is in that area of the box itself, and if the ears are strong enough to hold up. The question was also, if anyone else had run into this scenario, and what did they do to correct it.

[jtrichard]

If you use the Allen or the 12 point you wont have to take as much out for clearance (hex head and socket) just get the ear flat..... there should be plenty of meat there to grind without any problems.... as for the idler "spacer" that may be for a 62 with a box frame? just a thought

[pdxhall]

Why don't you get Jeff from CPP involved and see what he has to say?

[Bret B]

That is a good idea about contacting Jeff.

[Chapstr's65]

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/12...?__federated=1

According to this article in classic trucks they drilled out that hole so the bolt would slide through it and stated the bracket had a threaded spacer. Not sure if they are using the 500 or not but the 500 is a completely new gear box, wouldn't it already be set up that way. Unless it is used on multiple applications other than trucks. Also the brake to recived is not threaded and it looks as if I will have the same issue. If you come up with a solution let me know please.

[padresag]

if the other 3 bolts are tight back them off aways and see if you can get the bolt started. they may have a bit of an alignment. by the looks of your picture it shows that the bolt is not going in straight. you may have to move that spacer (nut) over a hair and reweld or ask for another brackt
asl CPP about it before you do though. they should know what the problem is
ron

[bmur66]

I just mounted up my new power steering gearbox last night. It required drilling out the lower left threaded hole in the gearbox with a 1/2" drill. The adapter plate was tapped for a bolt that passes thru the drilled out hole on the gearbox. I also found that as I thread the bolt thru the adapter plate it interferes with the frame. It looks like you will have the same issue. I am just going to use a shorter bolt and a coup[le washers.

[Bret B]

Sent an email last night with the pictures to Danny Castillo. I believe he called me a day after I place my order to do the confirmation. Anyway, he got back with me this morning and said the engineering dept was looking into it. He sent another email a little bit ago with the fix. They are sending a bolt with an allen head and lockwasher, see the picture attached. Chapster, send me a PM and I'll get you his email address if you haven't gotten with Jeff already. Double check that bracket as only one of the holes contains threads. The steering box corresponding with the lower, forward bolt, gets drilled to a 7/16 (cutting the threads out of the box, not the bracket) per the instructions. The bolt was started in the picture, but yeah I agree, it does look a little skewed. And yes, before putting the bolt, or new bolt in, I would loosen up the other three bolts so it is all seated at the same time so none of the ears break off.

[padresag]

I would also pull the box off and run a tap through the threads to make sure that they are clear and that there is no cross threading at the start
ron

[jtrichard]

I think some one about 10 posts back suggested an ALLEN bolt?? lol not my first rodeo

[Bret B]

You are correct jtrichard, you did suggest it, as you did the 12-point. And my eyes locked on the 12-point and the link. What I hadn't done was find out what the included bolt thread pitch, size, etc was, but the link you put in was probably all the correct information. Guess you could say, I was focused on thinking I had done something wrong causing the bolt to be so close to the housing. Much appreciate the help from all. Will do better next time.

[jtrichard]

its been awhile since I had a gear off did not remember if the bolts were 7/16 or 1/2 ... Hey we all have brain farts from time to time.... I have been In a mind set and did not see the obvious right in front of me .... any word from cpp on that spacer?

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by Bret B

You are correct jtrichard, you did suggest it, as you did the 12-point. And my eyes locked on the 12-point and the link. What I hadn't done was find out what the included bolt thread pitch, size, etc was, but the link you put in was probably all the correct information. Guess you could say, I was focused on thinking I had done something wrong causing the bolt to be so close to the housing. Much appreciate the help from all. Will do better next time.

Hey, Bret. Just saw this thread. Maybe use a ball from a rocker arm to serve as a spacer. Rounded side may just sit under that arc and give a flat surface on reverse side for nut. Dunno what engine will have proper i.d., though.
Sam

[Coppertop]

I did mine last weekend there was three extra washers maybe casting flash or issue in your casting. Mine installed great I would call up there tech line

[Chapstr's65]

Do you have any pics of the finished install. I was wondering how you did the shaft.

[Bret B]

Chapa, I haven't gotten to the steering shaft. Only the chassis, steering linkage and suspension are finished. I'm way behind where I thought I'd be at one point, and now I'm even further behind that time frame. Sorry for not being able to help out unless you need a picture of what the box looks like on the frame, and then it looks like everyone elses.

[Chapstr's65]

No I have seen those and all the articles I have found only show the mounting of the gear box. No one addresses the shaft. Thanks anyway and thanks for the heads up on the bolt.