AD Tie rod/drag link - replace or rebuild?

[MidLifer]

I'm planning to keep the solid axle on my 1950 3100. I have disassembled all the steering parts for cleaning. There was one broken spring in one of the tie rod ends but the ball studs seem fine, nice and round and with one exception even the ball seats didn't show much wear.

The tie rod is a bit bent though. Not terribly but I'd say if the center is flat on the floor, each end is about 1-2" in the air and there seem to be two separate bends. Must have taken a stump/rock at some point in its life. I've heard mixed things about trying to straighten tie rods with heat, so the first question is do you guys think it's safe to try to straighten it out, or must it be scrapped/replaced?

Secondly, if I replace it, I can either try to PB/heat the tie rod ends off the existing one or go for modern tie rod ends and drill/press the ball studs out of the steering links.

(Classic Industries sells ball-stud-type tie rod ends but they are expensive ($140/pc), and I can buy the rebuild kits from Classic Parts with new springs and ball seats for like $20 each.)

On these trucks is there any steering benefit to switching over to modern tie rod ends? If so, should I do the drag link too? Or should I just straighten/rebuild the stuff I have?

[wolffcub]

My local hot rod shop built me both tie rod and drag link new units with new ends for $150. Try to see what you have around you for places that might make them. I was going to buy new ends also and rework mine but was surprised a full build was cheaper.

[MidLifer]

Thanks Wolffcub. I have a steering guy who would probably be able to build me a new setup too. FWIW Classic Parts would sell me a tie rod with ends for $100.

What I'm also wondering is will it make the truck steer better to switch over to the new tie rod ends, all else being equal? Even if I get someone to build me the tie rod and drag link there is also the issue of pressing the ball studs out (which I assume the same shop would do, or I could find someone with a shop press and do). And then there is the originality factor (though I'm compromising that in other areas for driveability).