Engine run 1st time for me, now issues

[geezer#99]

32 degrees is total at maybe 3000 rpm.
With a big cam you need lots of initial timing.
Do you know how much mechanical timing you have in that dizzy?

[yoshi]

Woo woo what? Can you simplify that lol

[geezer#99]

You set your timing at 32 degrees.
That's your total timing.
Your total timing is made up from two parts.
Initial timing and mechanical timing.
Initial timing is the timing you set with your timing light pointed at the marks on the balancer/timing tab.
Mechanical is the timing produced in the dizzy from the weights and springs.
In your case your motor has a total of 32. If you know what you set your initial timing at then you'll be able to figure out what your mechanical timing is!
A big cam requires more initial and less mechanical.
So, what is your initial timing?

[OrrieG]

To add to geezers post, as your RPM rises the timing advance has to be greater to keep the spark firing at the optimum point right after TDC to drive the piston down. I would expect to see 6 - 8 degrees initial, with gradual advance to 32 total as rpm increases.

[yoshi]

I asked My hired hand he replied "you set the static timing only to get the engine started. After it's running you can forget about static timing and 8 or 10 degrees.
When it's running you need to know how much advance you have in the distributor, both mechanical and vacuum and at what rev's it's all in.
Then set the timing accordingly with an adjustable timing light.
Another way would be to give it as much advance as possible provided it runs nicely and doesn't 'pink' when you accelerate hard."

[OrrieG]

Well there you have it....just turn the distributor until something bad starts to happen and back it off. No need for those new fangled lights, bells and whistles. I CAN time an engine by ear and feel based on 50 years experience but would not recommend it for someone else....

[geezer#99]

I think you need to find a new 'hired hand"!
He contradicts himself.
He says set your base and forget it and then he says advance your timing by ear until it pings.
And he says you need to know how much timing you have both mechanical and vacuum and at what rpm.
You don't have vacuum.
You'll never get it figured by listening to him.
I agree with Orrie, set it by ear. Figure out your max base timing and go from there.
Your timing and how it's set up is the basis for all the other tuning you'll need to do to get your motor to run right.

[yoshi]

Bypass hose fitted

[geezer#99]

Do you have a pcv on one valve cover?
Two breathers won't work to remove the crap inside your motor!

[yoshi]

Pcv?

[Highsider]

On your driver's side valve cover, switch the vented cap for a (small) one-way valve to fit a 5/8 hose that leads to an inlet on the front of your (below your carb) manifold.

"Pollution Control Valve" here in the US.

[geezer#99]

Pollution control valve, eh!!
Don't you mean 'positive crankcase ventilation.

[Highsider]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Pollution control valve, eh!!
Don't you mean 'positive crankcase ventilation.

Ok, I'll go with yours.
If you were as old as I am and from So Cal, when these PCV were introduced, they were known as the answer to all of California's air pollution.

Hence...

The photo is right! hahaha

[yoshi]

Will this fit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRAM-FV264...item20f0c1918c

[Highsider]

Yes. Look for a pre-curved hose, then, or go with a 90* valve as in my part photo.

[yoshi]

Think this will fit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-OR-R...item1e9263e765

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by yoshi

Think this will fit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-OR-R...item1e9263e765

Maybe but it's not a pcv.
Try this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-AC-GM-...item58901665fd

[yoshi]

This suitable -http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381022814267?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Got myself an HDi dizzy to fit when i get a moment. I spoke to the guy who started my engine today, he said his main concern was how it overheated so quickly but now thats been sorted his only other concern is he thought it's a little noisier than it should be. Maybe a little too much from the cam/ lifter area. Im still waiting for the prop to be done, then i can run it & see how things are. The vacuum has gone up from almost 0 when we first started it & oil pressure up from 40 to 50 now.

[OrrieG]

Do you know what kind of pistons it has? I was concerned about my Chevelle donor 355 being noisey at start up until I called the guy I got it from and found out he had put in Hypereutectic aluminum pistons when he had it bored out. They are notorious for a little looseness when engine is cold but quiet down to normal levels when everything is at operating temperature. Lifters are usually only an issue with solid lifters. Hydralics can get pretty loud when over tightened or too loose. Solids can be noisey until operating temps are reached too. 50-60 pounds oil pressure is ok, but expect it to drop much lower when it warms up. All the SBC engines I have had could use the oil pressure gauge for a tach, 15 or so pounds at idle with steady increase to 2500 rpm. I would hold off on adding the HEI to the mix until you are satisfied everything else is sorted out.

[yoshi]

No I don't know what pistons etc that are inside my engine. I'm told it was a Nick Dann that put the truck together. May need a PI to find him though!

[yoshi]

Would this be ok to use on my sbc350 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2814577472...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[yoshi]

Good news Vacuum issue sorted by rotating the dizzy anti clockwise. Bad news Started to take the truck home & cracked the starter motor case