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01-06-2015, 07:01 PM | #1 |
C10 Collector
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 417
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4.8/5.3 swap questions
I have a 4.8 I pulled from a 07 classic truck, complete. From driveshaft yoke to the ECM, pedal, and Tac, everything. I was going to cut some adapter plates on my CNC to bolt it to the factory 67 mounts, what is the recomended position. I've seen drawings for everything from back 0.500" to forward 3".
I would like to use the factory manifolds and everything pretty much as is. I'd like to keep the factory AC compressor which I think means I may have to modify the passenger mount. Any recomendations? Also, I have a 307/Th400 right now in my 67 GMC. Will the shifter connect to the 4L60 and just not let me go into 1st? Thanks,Ryan
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///Ryan 1972 Chevy C-10-Bagged, Blown LT1, 700r4, Suicide Doors 1967 GMC- SC & Cam'd 4.8, built 4l80, 3200 stall, posi, 4.10 1967 Chevy LWB- 454 and patina 1971 Blazer - Rusty 1968 Crewcab project |
01-06-2015, 07:19 PM | #2 |
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MKE WI
Posts: 7,128
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Re: 4.8/5.3 swap questions
Position is slightly subjective, there is no "right" answer. In general, if you look at the stock position; anything within about 1" forward or aft will be fine. Going further forward than that will make radiator/fan/front acc clearance tight, and put the weight further past the axle centerline. Were you to go 4" forward, there would be a noticeable change in "push" with the handling.
1" back is usually the most anyone can go without hitting the coil packs into the firewall/trans tunnel. Again, some folks really want to put the weight further back, but make no other changes to the chassis to benefit from it...rendering it fruitless. Your exhaust manifolds won't fit, 90%+ of swaps don't have room between the rails to fit the "bumps" on the truck manifolds. TBSS mani's, new camaro, tubular fbody etc have all been made to fit. Your 4l60e won't have the same splines as the 400. Personally I feel that a custom driveshaft is always a good idea (yolk type and spines will be correct, length will be correct and you won't have to sacrifice driveline angle). As for the shift level, are you referring to a column shift or floor shift auto?
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'66 Short Step / SD Tuned / Big Cam LQ4 / Backhalfed /Built 4l80e / #REBUILDEVERYTHING MY BUILD THE H8RDCPTR //\\ MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL REV J HD
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01-06-2015, 07:53 PM | #3 |
C10 Collector
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 417
|
Re: 4.8/5.3 swap questions
Thanks for the reply. As far as position I didn't know if there was a sweet spot that made it easier. I've seen others use the truck manifolds but they trimmed the frame which is fine with me. This is a daily driver truck for me so simple and easy is what I want. I have the yoke from the 4L60 and I'll get the shaft made to fit. If I have to fab or machine something that's not a problem.
Shifter is column, since I have a 3 spd now I didn't know if I could hook it up to the 4 speed and D would be D, 2 would be 3, 1 would be 2. Make sense?? Also can the oem compressor be used with vintage air? I have a c10 vintage air kit I bought 10 years Id like to use.
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///Ryan 1972 Chevy C-10-Bagged, Blown LT1, 700r4, Suicide Doors 1967 GMC- SC & Cam'd 4.8, built 4l80, 3200 stall, posi, 4.10 1967 Chevy LWB- 454 and patina 1971 Blazer - Rusty 1968 Crewcab project |
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