1974 C20 Soon to become a project...

[Super_Dave]

I just closed a deal on a 1974 C20 Custom Deluxe. It appears to be all original, with a nice running 350 4bbl and TH Automatic.

Only cancer is the typical battery tray/core support/inner fender lip and the inner rockers and inner kick panels (1" up from the floorboards) Exterior is really, straight... with the only exception being the bowed tailgate and a couple of dings and scrapes. Could use a good wash and detailing.

The chrome bumper has a small wow in the top, the rear lower corner by the back bumper has a shallow ding and the same side of the bed has the worst dent on the belt-line, but really fairly small.

The engine bay only needs some good cleaning and maybe the flat black parts repainted. The clear coat is nearly gone on the body, except on parts of both doors.

Plans call for:

1. An ECE Front Spindle conversion to C10, so I can keep all the C20 HD parts.
2. 1" Drop coils in the front to get it at 3.5" if the 2.5" doesn't look like enough.
3. Dutchman rear axles punched for C10 pattern so I can keep all the rest of the C20 HD parts.
4. Swap in a newer Tilt Column with wiper delay.
5. Flip kit in the rear and maybe a c-notch if needed to get me 4"-5". Toss the HD leaves.
6. Appropriate wheel and tire combination to achieve the look I want. (probably the hardest decision to make on the project.)
7. Rhino Liner on the bed only.. not the wheel tubs.
8. 1.25" sway bar in the back.
9. R/R the bumpers.
10. Crimson Red and White paint - base coat clear coat... jury is out on keeping the trim and badges... might just go with two tone and striping.
11. Black leather and Gray Tweed upholstery and gray wool carpet.
12. Swap the 350 with my other motor: A 1970 350 010 high nickle content 030 over with lots of goodies.
13. Updated gauge cluster and stereo-speakers.

I have some researching to do before I start collecting parts and setting aside the funds. I will start a specific thread once all the fun begins.

[Super_Dave]

In the photos, you can see the bowed tailgate when it's open. The trunnion needs attention as well... so most likely will be looking for a replacement tailgate that doesn't need bodywork, and redo the trunnions. You can also see the only real body work that needs to be done in three of the photos.

The aftermarket wheels will be finding a new home at some point.

I will do a complete once over on the front suspension at my brothers shop; replacing what needs replacing when we do the drop spindles.

The steering is an OEM variable Ratio unit, but I might be sending it to Tennessee for a quick ration conversion.

All the mechanicals work like they did from the factory.

The replacement motor can be seen below as well... currently residing in a 1974 International... The current resident in the C20 will take up residence in the International and be stored for my daughter to drive when she is old enough. We will be blending a 1974 Step Side and Fleetside IH into one pickup for her... and save the parts for any "repairs" she might need done!

[walkerb]

Nice soild truck! I agree the rims are hideous

[CHIZZLER]

Looks like a nice solid truck.

[Super_Dave]

Yeah, I've crawled all over it and it's in really great shape. I was concerned about the typical cancer spots, but someone kept the crud from collecting on this one, because it needs hardly anything in the way of body work. The inside is dry as a bone... no moisture whatsoever, no moldy smell.

I almost pulled the trigger on a Seattle C10 but it was manual everything, steering, transmission, breaks... and I wanted to keep the 350/TH400 package... so I passed.

I couldn't find any C10 candidates that weren't over priced basket cases, so I started considering C20's. I have a '79 chassis blasted and primed, with a 12B rear, but with the ECE C10 conversion and how nice this truck is, I'm going to save the '79 and do a graft onto the '74 International for my daughter. That way she will have all Chevy running gear and a 350/TH400 combo.

[slotard]

Details on the quick steering?

[old Rusty C10]

nice truck

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by slotard

Details on the quick steering?

My bad... Chip Woyner is in Branson Missouri, not Tennessee. This is what I will be doing to my C20 and my daughters '74 IH when the time comes.

Essentially, I will go from 4+ turns lock to lock, to 2.5 to 3 turns. Once the suspension is tightened up (ball joints, etc where needed), the improvement will be huge. The price beats a $1200 or more R&P setup for someone on a budget.

http://www.powersteering.com/

[Gregski]

she's nice, real nice

[Super_Dave]

Gregski,

Been following your build. Good stuff.
My SIL still lives in the Sacratomato area. My little brother passed suddenly last April. She is thinking about moving Northward, but can't come to grips with leaving the Cali weather. Can't say I blame her.

[whitedog76]

I've always loved the 70's trucks, much more than the 80's versions.

Don't do anything silly like changing the front sheet metal.

Why swap out the axle and change to 1/2 ton? I personally love the heavy duty 8 luggers.

[Super_Dave]

Whitedog76,

I wanted a C10 that I could lower in a mild fashion but there are no quality C10's around my area. The ones that are available, cost 2-3 times what I paid for this C20 and they still need a lot of bodywork. So I opted for this C20, figuring I can swap in C10 stuff with the money I saved on body work buying a high quality C20.

If I could achieve the look I want with aftermarket and stock C20 running gear, I would consider it, but the aftermarket manufacturers cater almost exclusively to C10's.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Dont forget you could use C30 drop spindles if you get the calipers.

Also consider looking for a 14SF. It is like a overgrown 10 bolt, and can be adapted to the 5x5 pattern easier then a 14FF. Plus it worth a couple mpg when geared due to dramatic weight loss.

I prefer the C20 since breaks are much better, and today's tires are big enough to do what ever you would want.

[Super_Dave]

Ziegelsteinfaust:

Thanks for the options. This modification, will be the most time-consuming implementation wise.

I don't really need a lot of weight handling capability, as I will use it mostly for cruising transportation and hauling occasional sheet goods for the shop.

I have a 1979 12B in hand already, along with the complete front frame clip, so I will most likely go that route and swap all the parts over. The 14B FF rear differential is in extremely good shape and will have to find a home with someone who really needs/wants that level of robustness.

[Country705]

Love the truck...I can't wait to read about your progress!

[Super_Dave]

Country705,

Thanks. I look at it as I bought a C10 in really nice ALMOST rust free shape, with C20 running gear, for a price that most C10 pickups with major issues sell for.

My business took a big hit last June and it looks like there will be slim pickings for another year, so I opted for a nice running pickup that only needs bolt on upgrades as funds allow and will save the paint and interior for last. The cost of the drop kits, brakes, wheels and tires will cost me about 50% of the total build.

With the shape of this C20, I will be saving big money on body and paint. I have a friend who has done body work for several decades, who will do what little work I need done for cash, saving me a lot. I will most likely be staying with the factory Crimson Red and no side stripe, so I don't have to paint the firewall or interior cab... and shaving the trim and badges as well. I will do the Raptor Bed Liner myself.

I will redo the all the interior upholstery, including the dash, (except the seat), sound deadening, insulation and carpet myself.

When funds allow, I will be adding the flush fit windshield, rear window and maybe one-piece door glass from One Piece Products. This will be followed with electric door locks and windows. Selling my wife's 1998 Explorer XLT and the 14B FF axle will add a few funds to the mix as well.

Once I have the money set aside to start the engine/suspension swap, I will start an actual build thread. Until then, I am researching, asking questions and planning the best options to achieve the end result I am looking for.

[y5mgisi]

Looks good!

[Super_Dave]

I have been gradually going over the the '74 to see what all needs to be done. In doing so, I have a couple of questions:

1. The drivers door will not stay open. I am not familiar with these doors, as previous trucks I have had use a synthetic wedge type material mounted to the hinge surface to hold the door open.

The passenger side works well, but I cannot seem to isolate what actually creates the tension when the door is open, so I can compare to the driver side. Repro hinges are available for $20+ but if I can fix the OEM, that would be preferable.

The hinge pins are fine in both doors and and absolutely no door sag.

2. I have to actually keep hold of the door handles when closing the doors, as they want to pop right back out. They stay semi-latched, but want to pop out to that partial open position unless you give it a firm close and keep pressure against the door handle to keep it from jumping back. Something needs adjusting... just not sure what it is. It's almost like an atmospheric pressure sort of feeling... I know weird description, but going with what it feels like.

[Oregoon]

Greetings from SE Portland. I work in Tualatin, and for some reason, your truck looks familiar.

I spent months hunting for a new project/driver. While a Squarebody was on the list, my main criteria was an inline six, 3OTT, and a longbed. I looked at everything from flathead Dodge to '50s Fords when I found my C15 for a screaming deal.

Seems like prices are all over the map around here lately. While we don't salt our roads, we do have a lot of rain, so rust still happens... I saw ratty swiss-cheese 60's GMs going for absurd amounts, and a beautiful Studebaker that the guy was just about giving away...

Anyway, glad to see you found what you were after! I love the 3/4 ton trucks, though I understand your desire to change it to 5-lug.

[y5mgisi]

What holds the door open is the "S" looking spring on the hinge shown here. The two serrated roller looking deals roll on the spring and hold it in place.



For being hard to close, check and make sure there is a bushing on the door striker still.

[Super_Dave]

Oregoon...

I live about 5 minutes from Tualatin. The PO of this truck is from Tigard... Washington Square area.

The main selling point for me was the condition of the sheet metal and it being a really dry truck. A bonus was a nice running OEM 350 and TH400, so I have a backup engine/trans that my son and I want to do some serious work on when time and funds allow. Haven't had a screaming motor since my '69 Z28 302 M22 4 Speed...

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

What holds the door open is the "S" looking spring on the hinge shown here. The two serrated roller looking deals roll on the spring and hold it in place.



For being hard to close, check and make sure there is a bushing on the door striker still.

y5mgisi

I looked at the "S" spring earlier, with the door cracked open so I could see it. Just went outside and looked again, only this time, I fished my fingers between the door and fender and low and behold, it moved! The bottom hook, rollers and all snapped off from metal fatigue... complete smooth break!

So, is there a repair kit/part or do I replace the whole hinge and call it a day?

While out there, I checked out the strikers. Both are bare metal and the edges of the round heads are showing noticeable contact wear. Are there replacement bushings, or is this a replacement striker situation?

Thanks for the great info!

[Oregoon]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

Oregoon...

I live about 5 minutes from Tualatin. The PO of this truck is from Tigard... Washington Square area.

The main selling point for me was the condition of the sheet metal and it being a really dry truck. A bonus was a nice running OEM 350 and TH400, so I have a backup engine/trans that my son and I want to do some serious work on when time and funds allow. Haven't had a screaming motor since my '69 Z28 302 M22 4 Speed...

I must've seen it. My mom lives off off Greenburg, and I have a bunch of friends around Progress and Metzger (I grew up in Aloha, Beaverton, Hillsboro, etc).

Looks like a really straight find! Congrats!

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

y5mgisi

I looked at the "S" spring earlier, with the door cracked open so I could see it. Just went outside and looked again, only this time, I fished my fingers between the door and fender and low and behold, it moved! The bottom hook, rollers and all snapped off from metal fatigue... complete smooth break!

So, is there a repair kit/part or do I replace the whole hinge and call it a day?

While out there, I checked out the strikers. Both are bare metal and the edges of the round heads are showing noticeable contact wear. Are there replacement bushings, or is this a replacement striker situation?

Thanks for the great info!

I think brothers or LMC sells just the spring but in all likelihood you probably need bushings too. Hinges aren't that expensive so price it out before you spend all the time rebuilding them.

You can get new striker bushings. It is called pex pipe if I remember correctly.

Good luck on your build. I have a C20 myself.

[y5mgisi]

You can buy a whole new hinge setup.