Help with headers, parking brake cable, & crossmember

[H20cooled]

Hello! I installed a 4.8l with a 4l60e into my 68 c10, I used the 73+ frame mounts with the 73+ dirty dingo sliders, for the tranny cross member i used one of the cpp units, for headers I'm using the Doug Thorley THY-324Y-C headers. The engine and transmission are installed and look great, but looking at the headers/exhaust position the cpp transmission crossmember is too high for the headers and the parking brake cable is also in the way of the exhaust path. I thought the the cpp crossmember was supposed to work with these headers for clearance.

Attached are pictures. Any help/advice would be great.

Thanks

Rich

[H20cooled]

Anyone have any thoughts or info on what they did?

Thanks!

[LockDoc]

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How far is it from the header collector to the cross member? It doesn't look like it is too far off. Can't you just route the exhaust up and over the cross member?

LockDoc

[Hart_Rod]

Put the cables below the tranny mount.

[homemade87]

As far as the brake cable I had to move the cable rods to other hole locations to get mine to work . Just run it under the exhaust and cross member . Drill a new hole for the rod if necessary . I also made a new shorter rod from a solid steel 3/8 rod from the hardware store to get the proper lenght and tension. My cable rides on the under side of the exhaust when depressed . Never had a problem .

[H20cooled]

Thank you, kind of figured I would have to move the cable under the cross member.

[BR3W CITY]

I cut mine off with a boltcutters. The handle was always hitting me in the knee, and I've got an auto so it's pretty much pointless.

[jhuerta81]

Originally Posted by homemade87

As far as the brake cable I had to move the cable rods to other hole locations to get mine to work . Just run it under the exhaust and cross member . Drill a new hole for the rod if necessary . I also made a new shorter rod from a solid steel 3/8 rod from the hardware store to get the proper lenght and tension. My cable rides on the under side of the exhaust when depressed . Never had a problem .

I know this is an olders thread, just purchased a 71 with a ls swap and noticed I have the same problem. Im missing the rod, but noticed the rod would hit the headers. U have any pics of the new hole and rod. Just want an additional safety measure since it can easily be shiftef from park or started up in any gear. Was originally a standard so it doesn't have a neutral safety switch. And the column doesn't have a place for it. Thanks in advance

[homemade87]

Originally Posted by jhuerta81

I know this is an olders thread, just purchased a 71 with a ls swap and noticed I have the same problem. Im missing the rod, but noticed the rod would hit the headers. U have any pics of the new hole and rod. Just want an additional safety measure since it can easily be shiftef from park or started up in any gear. Was originally a standard so it doesn't have a neutral safety switch. And the column doesn't have a place for it. Thanks in advance

Sorry for the delay . I had forgotten to get pictures . The one picture that has 2 rods is when I was adding headers . The short one was when I had stock manifolds on my 5.3 . The long one was when I was adding header and a new crossmember on my 6.0 . I made both of these out of a 3/8 solid rod by heating them a quenching in water . The hole used was factory holes . There are several in the frame to choose from . Just make your rod to accommodate . I did not use a rod on the drivers side . With my set up now the cable goes under the exhaust . At that point the adjustment nut will do the final tuning . Not sure if pictures will give you what you need but here they are .

[jhuerta81]

[QUOTE=homemade87;7711363]Sorry for the delay . I had forgotten to get pictures . The one picture that has 2 rods is when I was adding headers . The short one was when I had stock manifolds on my 5.3 . The long one was when I was adding header and a new crossmember on my 6.0 . I made both of these out of a 3/8 solid rod by heating them a quenching in water . The hole used was factory holes . There are several in the frame to choose from . Just make your rod to accommodate . I did not use a rod on the drivers side . With my set up now the cable goes under the exhaust . At that point the adjustment nut will do the final tuning . Not sure if pictures will give you what you need but here they are .[/QU

Thanks for the pics, on driver side you have no rods to frame? Goes straight from where it attaches to the first cable straight to the rear under the exhaust?

[homemade87]

[quote=jhuerta81;7711372]

Originally Posted by homemade87

Sorry for the delay . I had forgotten to get pictures . The one picture that has 2 rods is when I was adding headers . The short one was when I had stock manifolds on my 5.3 . The long one was when I was adding header and a new crossmember on my 6.0 . I made both of these out of a 3/8 solid rod by heating them a quenching in water . The hole used was factory holes . There are several in the frame to choose from . Just make your rod to accommodate . I did not use a rod on the drivers side . With my set up now the cable goes under the exhaust . At that point the adjustment nut will do the final tuning . Not sure if pictures will give you what you need but here they are .[/QU

Thanks for the pics, on driver side you have no rods to frame? Goes straight from where it attaches to the first cable straight to the rear under the exhaust?

That is correct . If you feel you need one for alignment you could add one . I felt I did not need one . Of course this was done on my 82 . Your 68 may need something different .

From the looks of your last picture I would re route it under your cross member and give that a try . I will not matter if it rides the under side when the brakes are on .

As a matter of fact I would not worry about the brake cable until you get your exhaust completed . Things can change enough that you may have to redo it again .