Horn Issue..

[morethanstock66]

When I bought my '66, it had the original shift column (with a th400 in the floor), a cheap aftermarket steering wheel, and a dash horn button. I completely rewired the truck, bought a period correct steering wheel-from a board member, refurbished it and put it all back together. Everything looks stock, minus the column shifter.

The problem now is that, despite being fastened down correctly, the horn button has slight play in it. Meaning you can grab the button and move it approx. 1/16-1/8" side to side within the steering wheel center. The horn functions when you press it and stops when you let go. The issue is that upon driving it around, after a few turns, the horn will randomly come on and stay on-like I am pressing it and holding it down. Frantically in traffic, trying to stop the noise, I pulled the button off and the horn stopped.

It seems to me that the extra space in between the contact plates allows the convex button plate to slide and complete the circuit causing the horn to come on.

I have tried all stock hardware, I have tried shorter horn-button hold down screws, no dice. I think the 3 ring plastic horn-bolt spacer is too skinny.. but I do not know, It is all period correct, stock hardware.. Has anyone else had this problem before?

[65chevysub]

I had a similar issue last week. I have the deluxe horn ring but the center part needs the mounts rethreaded and it was loose. My horn quit working but coming up out of Phoenix it started honking by itself. I banged the horn button part and it stopped. I can hear the relay clicking whenever I turn the wheel so until I figure out what's wrong, I unplugged my horn. My column is a 72 tilt unit but I'm using my original wheel.

[morethanstock66]

Originally Posted by 65chevysub

I had a similar issue last week. I have the deluxe horn ring but the center part needs the mounts rethreaded and it was loose. My horn quit working but coming up out of Phoenix it started honking by itself. I banged the horn button part and it stopped. I can hear the relay clicking whenever I turn the wheel so until I figure out what's wrong, I unplugged my horn. My column is a 72 tilt unit but I'm using my original wheel.

Yeah, that is what I almost did as well. I just am trying to get it inspected and I would really hate myself to put a button on the dash after I did all that wiring.

Digging around on here, I did find a different post a few years back talking about the button assembly.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417618
Looking at post #2, I just don't have the clear plastic spacer in the red background pic. That is the first time that I have seen a clear spacer, I'm curious if you can find those anywhere? That could be the reason behind my issues. I am having a hell of a time finding remanufactured parts for the button assembly.

[1963c-10]

Horn contact insulator......

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Size-Ch...2a9b16&vxp=mtr

this should help out

[morethanstock66]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Horn contact insulator......

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Size-Ch...2a9b16&vxp=mtr

this should help out

Awesome! I was just looking for them. Thank you, very much. Give me about a week to get it in and see if it fixes the problem.

[65chevysub]

My horn has the plastic insulator metal contact ring and the remnants of another type of insulator that the screws hold down. I trimmed the connector ring from the latter as it kept twisting when I would tighten the screws.

[1963c-10]

These are the parts needed for a standard wheel. The two small screws are used on the cancel cam that mounts underneath the wheel.

[1963c-10]

Take a few minutes and look through the FAQ section....you will find tons of useful threads and info on the 60-66 trucks here.

Link: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=646002