Another way to skin the cat; the High Torque 292 LS swap

[Marty68]

awesome.you need to look at it a while to see what it really is.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Beetle

This. This right here has me motivated to want to do this to mine. So how do I make an adapter for the carb'd intake to accept the throttle body? Is it OK I clone yours? It looks damn good, just wish there was a way to hide the fuel rails

One more question. What radiator did you use? I seen you covered it when you talked about the fans but I was wondering what you did about the steam port. I am researching LS swaps and I keep seeing "steam port" come up. Dunno what it is but seems you gotta have it.

Sure, clone away! The TB adapter was water jetted from 1/2 aluminum plate. The outside is shaped exactly like a square bore carb gasket and the inside has a 75mm hole.

The radiator is a stock 4 core '72 C10. I just had the nipple for the heater outlet brazed shut. My steam line runs from the pipe between the heads to the back of the waterpump. You can see it fairly well in this photo. It's just a rubber hose.

[dayj1]

Thanks for all the compliments!

[dec010974]

dayj1, what are the part numbers for the holley intake and fuel rails? I have the holley LSx dual plane intake.

[Houston Ben]

All I can say is...WOW!!! Would you come to Texas and rebuild mine?? lol!

[whitels1]

Great Job! I dig the old school valve covers and the air filter/housing set up.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by dec010974

dayj1, what are the part numbers for the holley intake and fuel rails? I have the holley LSx dual plane intake.

300-137 for the intake and 534-219 for the rails.

Originally Posted by Houston Ben

All I can say is...WOW!!! Would you come to Texas and rebuild mine?? lol!

Originally Posted by whitels1

Great Job! I dig the old school valve covers and the air filter/housing set up.

Thanks!

[Beetle]

Originally Posted by dayj1

Sure, clone away! The TB adapter was water jetted from 1/2 aluminum plate. The outside is shaped exactly like a square bore carb gasket and the inside has a 75mm hole.

The radiator is a stock 4 core '72 C10. I just had the nipple for the heater outlet brazed shut. My steam line runs from the pipe between the heads to the back of the waterpump. You can see it fairly well in this photo. It's just a rubber hose.

Know of any place that sells a carb to tb adapter? My google-fu sucks, and I don't know of anyone with a waterjet

[GMC-YA68]

Originally Posted by Beetle

Know of any place that sells a carb to tb adapter? My google-fu sucks, and I don't know of anyone with a waterjet

sounds like DAYJ1's buddy with the waterjet may be able to make some side cash if he wants to mass produce a batch of those intake to MAF plates! I dig the setup. Wouldn't have ever crossed my mind to do it that way. Great work and ideas.

[Beetle]

Originally Posted by GMC-YA68

sounds like DAYJ1's buddy with the waterjet may be able to make some side cash if he wants to mass produce a batch of those intake to MAF plates! I dig the setup. Wouldn't have ever crossed my mind to do it that way. Great work and ideas.

I would buy one! No joke

[dec010974]

I would buy one also.
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[Zane M]

Amazing!
Thanks for sharing.

[dec010974]

Just an idea. Combine the carb spacer with the throttle body adapter and you can this set up as dayj1. It may be a little taller but I'm sure you get idea. I don't own a water jet either, but there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. Since both pieces are aluminum your nearest tig welder can do the job. I estimate dayj1 piece can be duplicated for less that a $100.00. Or dayj1 can Sell them for less. "I'm just say in".
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[dayj1]

I sent a message to the guy that cut mine to see if he has any interest in making more. I'll post an update here when I find out something. I can't sell on this board as I don't have a premium membership. So, I don't want to make this a for sale thread and get it closed.

When I was researching my build, I thought of several possibilities in addition to the one that was just posted.

The most options are available for drive by cable. You could remove the injector pod from a GM TBI throttle body from a 4.3L, 5.7L, or 454. There are lots of inexpensive adapters out there that will allow one of those to bolt up to a square bore intake. They wouldn't require an adapter for a breather and they already have an IAC and a TPS sensor. Another option is to just run a carb. As long as you didn't hook up fuel to it, it will only meter air. It wouldn't require adapters of any kind and there are kits out there to add the TPS sensor.

For DBW, the Gen 4 guys have this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121522882229...S:1123&vxp=mtr For Gen 3 you'd have to run the adapter above and a 3 to 4 bolt adapter.

[mattcrp1]

Nice work. Looks factory.

[ls1nova71]

Wow, Jonathan, this looks awesome! I assume this is what you need the cruise lever for? I haven't forgotten about it, just been really busy but will get it done, I promise. Couple of questions though, first, is the pump really loud in the tank in the cab? I had a buddy who put a pump in the stock opening and it worked, but he hated the noise. Second, how did you get the speedometer to work with the original face? I assume it's pretty close to accurate, but the odometer is off?

[mattcrp1]

Quick question for the spedo swap guys, will that s10 set up work with a '76 type dash/cluster?

[Matt Cramer]

Nice work! My project has a lot of similar elements - 4.8, in tank pump, 2010 Camaro manifolds - but the fabrication work on mine isn't nearly as good, and right now it's still using the ugly truck manifold. Given me a bit to think about...

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by mattcrp1

Nice work. Looks factory.

Originally Posted by Matt Cramer

Nice work!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Wow, Jonathan, this looks awesome! I assume this is what you need the cruise lever for? I haven't forgotten about it, just been really busy but will get it done, I promise. Couple of questions though, first, is the pump really loud in the tank in the cab? I had a buddy who put a pump in the stock opening and it worked, but he hated the noise. Second, how did you get the speedometer to work with the original face? I assume it's pretty close to accurate, but the odometer is off?

Thanks, Eric! And, yes, this truck is why I need another cruise lever.

On the tank, the jury is still out. I bought a real Delco EP381 pump from Rock Auto instead of one of the cheapo "gray market" ones on eBay in hopes that a genuine Delco pump would be the quietest available pump. I also put rubber pads between the tank and the cab at all mounting bolts. It's about 1/4" thick rubber from the ends of the radiator hoses that I cut up to fit my engine. At first it was annoyingly loud. I have enough dynamat to cover the front and back of the tank but I only put it on the front for now. That got it tolerable where it really only bothers me at idle when there is no road noise. I'd say that cut the noise in half and it's really at the point now that I will probably be happy with it when I get the radio working. Long term, I plan on some interior updates. At that time, I'll dynamat the back of the tank and put some rubber/foam between the bottom of the tank and the cab. I'll also cover the tank with a carpet kit. I think those two things will get it where I want to be noise wise.

On the speedo I took a slightly "one-off" approach. A '94 S10/Sonoma cluster is a one year only deal. It's 85 MPH instead of the 120 MPH of the later S10 speedos but the mechanics are the same as far as how the mount, etc. The S10 sweep is less than the C10 (just like the later speedo) and when you add the extra sweep of the C10 back in, the 85 MPH S10 speedo works out to 100 MPH. I had to modify the odometer to 6 digits and it took a fair bit of work to fit it to the factory face. It works, but your kits certainly make it an easier proposition to go your way

Originally Posted by mattcrp1

Quick question for the spedo swap guys, will that s10 set up work with a '76 type dash/cluster?

The best I can say is "maybe". I think you would have to re-number the face to match the S10 sweep similar to Eric's kits for the 67-72. The easiest fix for a squarebody is to get an electric speedo out of a squarebody suburban.

[dec010974]

And here is is with everything in place (including the wiring) and I've put about 200 miles on it this week. It's running great.


I read the information on the single pane intake, from Holley's website. Holley claims that the operating rpm range the Holley 300-137 is from 2500-7000. the dual plane intake rpm range is 1500-6500. How does this affect drivability? since my current setup is LQ4, FI, what is your opinion?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by dec010974

I read the information on the single pane intake, from Holley's website. Holley claims that the operating rpm range the Holley 300-137 is from 2500-7000. the dual plane intake rpm range is 1500-6500. How does this affect drivability? since my current setup is LQ4, FI, what is your opinion?

The dual plane is Holley part #300-130, right? If so, it doesn't have any bosses for injectors. The intake runners are at different heights, so it would be pretty difficult to go MPFI with that intake. GM does make part #19244037, but it's the better part of $500 and I think it is for rectangle port heads.

With that said, Holley does say the single plane intake (300-137) is for 2500-7000 RPM and they also say it is for displacements of 5.3L and up (not a problem for you, but I have a 4.8). I was worried about 2 things with my setup; 1) The MAF being so close to the TB and 2) The single plane intake. In my case, neither one seems to have made any difference. The 4.8 in my '72 is running a bone stock tune except that the rear o2s, evap, and vats are disabled. It runs and acts just like the 4.8 in my daily driver 2012 Silverado.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by dec010974

Just an idea. Combine the carb spacer with the throttle body adapter and you can this set up as dayj1. It may be a little taller but I'm sure you get idea. I don't own a water jet either, but there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. Since both pieces are aluminum your nearest tig welder can do the job. I estimate dayj1 piece can be duplicated for less that a $100.00. Or dayj1 can Sell them for less. "I'm just say in".
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I bought one of those 4-bolt to 3-bolt adaptors, I have no idea what AssHat came up with that, But you will have a major Vacuum leak using it the way it is on stock throttle bodies.

You either need to have it machined for a Stock O-ring gasket or get a aftermarket paper gasket.

[Ozzy2013]

Awesome job !

[dec010974]

Wow, unbelievable! so basically you have a bone, stock tune on your pcm? So once I send my pcm out to be reflashed (remove vats, rear o2 sensors), get it back, and set it up, I should be good to go? I thought you may have used a local tuner to calibrate the fuel trims, engine idle, drive tune it, and a few other parameters, needed to make this puppy idle/run/shift smoothly. what injectors did you use with the holley fuel rails 534-219? thanks for the info. dayj1 for president.

clinebarger I will always use gaskets. metal to metal fastening will always need gaskets. I learned that many times, lesson a long time ago.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by dayj1

On the speedo I took a slightly "one-off" approach. A '94 S10/Sonoma cluster is a one year only deal. It's 85 MPH instead of the 120 MPH of the later S10 speedos but the mechanics are the same as far as how the mount, etc. The S10 sweep is less than the C10 (just like the later speedo) and when you add the extra sweep of the C10 back in, the 85 MPH S10 speedo works out to 100 MPH. I had to modify the odometer to 6 digits and it took a fair bit of work to fit it to the factory face. It works, but your kits certainly make it an easier proposition to go your way

I have a couple of those 85mph speedos, but when I tried it, I couldn't get to be as accurate as the 120mph ones. But to be honest, I didn't spend a whole lot of time on it. Looks good though!