62 Front SwayBar Installation

[par4tom]

There's why...I'm at 4.5" back spacing...barely rubs but it does rub a bit. I'll end up with a staggered wheel set anyway so I just need to make sure I remember to check that.

Your truck looks great!
Tom

[wilbur46]

Hey Joe,
Tripped over your thread.
Nice to meet you Wed.
Thanks again for those bolts.
This 62 project is very nice.
Its gonna be hard to top the Orange one tho. Painted in 92 ?? Really nice!!
Bill


67-72 fleet rear bumper/brackets anyone? Paint is fine.

[Joe Pass]

Originally Posted by wilbur46

Hey Joe,
Tripped over your thread.
Nice to meet you Wed.
Thanks again for those bolts.
This 62 project is very nice.
Its gonna be hard to top the Orange one tho. Painted in 92 ?? Really nice!!
Bill


67-72 fleet rear bumper/brackets anyone? Paint is fine.

Bill,
Good to meet you also....Maybe see you at another lunch ?

[Joe Pass]

Originally Posted by par4tom

There's why...I'm at 4.5" back spacing...barely rubs but it does rub a bit. I'll end up with a staggered wheel set anyway so I just need to make sure I remember to check that.

Your truck looks great!
Tom

Thanks Tom...
I have 2ea 15x8 with a 4" back space if you get in a jamb (6 lug steel)
I went to 7" to keep the front from tracking wider than the rear. Your welcome to take them and use them until you go 5 lug...I'm 4hrs north of you

[par4tom]

Thank you very much for the offer...I have the original wheels still but am planning to jack the truck up tomorrow and convert to 5 lug. Very nice of you!!!

Tom

[Joe Pass]

Rear Swaybar update....
A friend gave me an Addco 452 rear swaybar designed for early corvette "1962" era.
I was determined to try installing it on the 62's rear trail arms, but I was concerned that the way it would fit wouldn't be very effective. I googled swaybars and saw that CPP has one to fit their tubular replacement trail arms, mounted just how I wanted to do this one. Well, I took a chance and positioned it in place and began to make some brackets that bolted to the outside frame, right under the step. I had used some 6" x 3.5" x 3/8" thick cut into 6" lengths aluminum angle sourced from an old computer rack. I clamped the brackets to the frame, then the bushings onto the trail arms and new frame brackets. After I aligned it up into position with clamps, I drilled all the holes. I pulled down the brackets and dressed all the edges and painted them black, reinstalled them permanently. After the installation, I went for the test drive....
The handling had greatly improved and the rear end stopped that annoying bounce I was getting on rough roads. The front swaybar improved handling so well I thought the rear one would not be very noticeable, but I'm pleased to say that it now handles like the truck should. I won't be competitive in any autocross, but I can drive into a turn and not be concerned about getting squirmy because the road is bumpy. This is the piece of the puzzle that was missing and I think the improvement was great....There is a swaybar available from CPP for the rear 60-72 truck which would most likely be an easier installation than what I did.
Here a some pictures................

[Joe Pass]

The rewarding test drive

[Captmatt]

Great write up Joe. Your attention to detail is first class and your trucks show it. Super cool stuff. Hope to see you soon.....

[Joe Pass]

Originally Posted by Captmatt

Great write up Joe. Your attention to detail is first class and your trucks show it. Super cool stuff. Hope to see you soon.....

Thanks Matt,
Come up anytime...

[verdell]

Another great write up and install! What shocks are you using front and rear?

[Joe Pass]

Originally Posted by verdell

Another great write up and install! What shocks are you using front and rear?

I'm using CPP-4052G 1960-72 CPP Nitrogen Gas rear 5" lowered and 55-R068 Bilstein 1960-62, front...
Joe

[66Submarine]

It looks like you've created a triangle with your install that will bind as the suspension tries to move (unless I'm missing something).

Originally Posted by Joe Pass

Rear Swaybar update....
A friend gave me an Addco 452 rear swaybar designed for early corvette "1962" era.
I was determined to try installing it on the 62's rear trail arms, but I was concerned that the way it would fit wouldn't be very effective. I googled swaybars and saw that CPP has one to fit their tubular replacement trail arms, mounted just how I wanted to do this one. Well, I took a chance and positioned it in place and began to make some brackets that bolted to the outside frame, right under the step. I had used some 6" x 3.5" x 3/8" thick cut into 6" lengths aluminum angle sourced from an old computer rack. I clamped the brackets to the frame, then the bushings onto the trail arms and new frame brackets. After I aligned it up into position with clamps, I drilled all the holes. I pulled down the brackets and dressed all the edges and painted them black, reinstalled them permanently. After the installation, I went for the test drive....
The handling had greatly improved and the rear end stopped that annoying bounce I was getting on rough roads. The front swaybar improved handling so well I thought the rear one would not be very noticeable, but I'm pleased to say that it now handles like the truck should. I won't be competitive in any autocross, but I can drive into a turn and not be concerned about getting squirmy because the road is bumpy. This is the piece of the puzzle that was missing and I think the improvement was great....There is a swaybar available from CPP for the rear 60-72 truck which would most likely be an easier installation than what I did.
Here a some pictures................
Attachment 1424531

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Attachment 1424535

[Joe Pass]

Originally Posted by 66Submarine

It looks like you've created a triangle with your install that will bind as the suspension tries to move (unless I'm missing something).

I don't have any binding, but the travel I'm working with in is about 2" up and 2" down at the rearend. I can imagine needing the rear to articulate more I would have some issues. With the sway bar forward of that, the movement is even less. I realize keeping the plane between the frame and trail arms would be ideal, but I needed to keep the frame mounts as high as I could for esthetic reasons mostly.

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by Joe Pass

I don't have any binding, but the travel I'm working with in is about 2" up and 2" down at the rearend. I can imagine needing the rear to articulate more I would have some issues. With the sway bar forward of that, the movement is even less. I realize keeping the plane between the frame and trail arms would be ideal, but I needed to keep the frame mounts as high as I could for esthetic reasons mostly.

It's not that the bar isn't in the same plane as the trailing arms, it's that the ends are mounted directly to the frame. You are just missing a link between the ends and the frame to allow movement back and forth (like a leaf spring hanger).

[Joe Pass]

Originally Posted by 66Submarine

It's not that the bar isn't in the same plane as the trailing arms, it's that the ends are mounted directly to the frame. You are just missing a link between the ends and the frame to allow movement back and forth (like a leaf spring hanger).

I get what your saying and agree, but in my case it moves so little in its arc that if any binding occurs it can be absorbed by the bushings. Right now its something I can't even feel moving the rear up and down manually through it's natural limited swing . I decided to try it and the outcome improved the handling tremendously.
Anyway I appreciate your input because I wouldn't want anyone to think what works on mine also may not work on theirs. What ever method one uses, by adding any swaybar to the rear is beneficial.
Joe

[Tom Venezia]

Joe, a member passed me your thread on adding a front sway bar. Nice post and thanks for all the detail pics. I'm sure you have some miles on it by now, can you tell me if the sway bar helped your handling much? Planning to try same on my 62 carryall
Thanks, Tom

Originally Posted by Joe Pass

Thank you for the compliments...
My build goal was as if GM made this truck today keeping the outward changes subtle and the modernized unseen at first glance.
I saw on your build thread and liked your steering wheel write up.
I settle on a 62 Nova wheel to keep the theme, but also noticed that the larger diameter added to the handling dilemma. You wouldn't think driving with a steering wheel a bit larger would add to the slower handling but it does.
I will see if the Swaybar calms down the steering and people will stop thinking I'm waving my hands at them.
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[Joe Pass]

Tom
The swaybar works very well...The truck drives like any modern truck now that the swaybar is installed...Before the handling was a little unnerving heading into a corner on a bumpy road. I believe you will be pleased with the improvement that it makes.
Joe
1263.00 miles as of today...

[G8rN@te61]

So why not just replace front spring with drop springs? Wont that lower the stance some?

[Joe Pass]

On the Torsion style front suspension no coil springs are used, you can only lower it with drop spindles and torsion bar adjustments....after a point the torsion keys become the low point located back on the frame's crossmember....If understood your question right..
Joe

[G8rN@te61]

Im a DA. I totally forgot I don't have springs in front. Derrr.

So you remove the spacer and the sleeve is to keep bolt snug?

[Joe Pass]

I did that to bring the torsion keys adjusting bolt heads up higher for more clearance....that extra spacer kept the adjustment bolt head 1" lower....so the bolt moved up but the key stays in the same location.....every little bit ground clearance helps lowering a Torsion bar front end....The sleeve is to keep the ID the same size as the bolt's OD on the second block.....load on the torsion bar "truck weight" keeps the tension on the bolt/key....if that makes sense..lol

[G8rN@te61]

Originally Posted by Joe Pass

A follow up on the torsion bar keys and how I raised them almost 1"
I had a chance to takes some pictures of how I gained some ground clearance.... so here's some pictures.
The bushing was sourced from center axle on some throw away castor. A friend sourced his at the local bearing supply in bronze under $10. The picture shows the dimensions with my example. You will also see the skid plate I attached to the X pipe out of 1/4" plate to help protect every thing a little further.
As you can see there is a speed bump that hates me in my driveway, but the keys haven't scraped
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Attachment 1405504

Attachment 1405505

Joe, Looking at your picture the bushing seems to be longer than .5 inches?

[Joe Pass]

Your correct....I neglected to say that I made 2 bushings from that one bushing shown...
Joe

[G8rN@te61]

With the torsion bar key mod how much of a drop did you get?

[Joe Pass]

Raising the bolts didn't affect the lowering, It just gave me 1" more ground clearance on the bolt heads that anchor the keys.....You still raise and lower with the torsion adjustment as you want