Cab insulation

[softballnrd27]

I'm golfing Sunday morning maybe I'll stop by afterwards and see what's going on.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Twisted78SS

I read over this post just yesterday, and while long for sure, it covers a lot of the hype about spray on materials and the effectiveness, there is also a good bit of anecdotal data on personal experiences. buried within our a few links to other sites that have done a bit more precise testing, but for me the jury is still out in regards to which spray on to use...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alte...in-103610.html

I tried my best to stay focused long enough to read the entire thread, but lost my mind in the process. What I managed to take away was very little performance testing was done. There were a couple that truly tested their results, but most did not.

They all felt great because they saved tons of money, and accepted that it might have only performed close enough for the price. I appreciate the do it yourself mentality, but I still do not feel that the home made Lizard Skin offers the same level of efficiency that the name brand product does.

I personally am a "Bang for the Buck" kind of guy. I know that good quality comes with a price, and its never the same material as the cheap stuff. Even though I might be able to afford the most expensive product, I dont feel that its always a good value either. I always end up somewhere in the middle with the best "Bang for the Buck" and almost never get disappointed for choosing that path.

[carboncrew]

Just throwing my hat in the ring.....
I'm also the best 'bang for your buck' kind of guy. I can only comment on what I've used. I went with RAAMaudio. I liked the idea of the two products. When installing the Raamat I was a little surprised that the empty cab still echo'd then I installed the Ensolite (Raamat foam stuff) and wow what a difference. I think the combination of the two products works great.

[Rich84]

Originally Posted by carboncrew

Just throwing my hat in the ring.....
I'm also the best 'bang for your buck' kind of guy. I can only comment on what I've used. I went with RAAMaudio. I liked the idea of the two products. When installing the Raamat I was a little surprised that the empty cab still echo'd then I installed the Ensolite (Raamat foam stuff) and wow what a difference. I think the combination of the two products works great.

This is true..

It is the entire assembly that works together to create the best possible results. There is no one "miracle product" that will get you the sound dampening results that we all strive for.

It works the same way in buildings with regards to fire resistance and STC ratings.

[dieseldawg142]

i have to agree with N2TRUX, peel & sticks are NOT all the same. what it boils down to is butyl, peel n seal (or as we in the industry call it, peal & leak), or just about every other brand at the hardware store is asphalt based, not butyl, i'm a roofer & am quite intimate with all those pns's out there. they are not designed to go in a vehicle. asphalt will start flowing at less then 100 degrees, go stick a thermometer inside your door on a nice day, 150 + is not uncommon. butyl will go 2-3 times that before flowing.
the thinner fatmat & some other cheaper brands are similar in being asphalt based, the thicker fatmat , dynamat, the expensive stuff, is butyl. you will usually only find butyl in the hardware stores in small rolls because it's much more expensive than asphalt, just like dynamat & all the other good butyl based deadners..
but as you have decided which way your going to go, i would highly recommend you put down a 500 primer or Elastocol Stik, peel & seal & vertical surfaces do not get along well unless you prime. (thats why they invented it, shortly after introduction it started falling off just about any surface not flat....) thats not stuff i read on the web or a book, thats from base stripping thousands of metal roof curbs with it.
and when you put it down, refrain from using heat on asphalt peel n seals- yeah it will make it stick, but your burning off all the VOC's & shortening it's life span immensley.
if your going for quietness, peel n seal is not enough or designed to block noise, it kills the resonance, vibrations in your sheet metal. for quiet you need as mentioned mass loaded vinyl, or a good name brand spray deadner.
and yeah, anything will help in these trucks, but make it last. i myself went for the butyl fatmat and MLV. i would HIGHLY recommend this way to anybody if they want some sanity back in their truck
pay extra attention to your doors, huge gains there, like big echo chambers....
my int
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=559596

[Jeffery321]

I guess that I am going to have to head down to Lowes and see what this stuff is all about that everyone is talking about. I like cheap and right now everything is trial and error since when I have to look at the big picture, I pretty much need all new metal. So cheap and something to tinker with is for me.

[73kay]

Dieseldawg142,

What did you do for your door insulation? I think I'm gonna try and be semi scientific and install just my jute padding and carpet and then drive and measure the decibels. Then try it with the peel and seal. Heck honestly if the cab is quiet enough for me on the first trial I might just stop there lol. I really have no expectations bc I've have crappy windows and holes in my floor and hey btw its a 40 year truck. I appreciate the feedback!

[dieseldawg142]

Originally Posted by 73kay

Dieseldawg142,

What did you do for your door insulation? I think I'm gonna try and be semi scientific and install just my jute padding and carpet and then drive and measure the decibels. Then try it with the peel and seal. Heck honestly if the cab is quiet enough for me on the first trial I might just stop there lol. I really have no expectations bc I've have crappy windows and holes in my floor and hey btw its a 40 year truck. I appreciate the feedback!

well i dont think the factory put too much emphasis on quiet-ness when they built them- they were "just" trucks, so yeah, anything will help-just putting 3 coats of por15 down on my floor made a difference!
a lot of the products mentioned will help, but would you rather use PPG paint & have a beautiful paint job for yrs, or use china paint, which will work & look good for a couple yrs, then flake off.....

i put fatmat on the inside of the outer door skin, the inner skin, then MLV, i skipped the closed cell foam in the doors though, also ran seam sealer up & down the insides of the door seams. your doors will sound SOLID! after that, in fact their so solid sounding, when people rap on the doors they swear their smeared with an inch of bondo....

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by dieseldawg142

i have to agree with N2TRUX, peel & sticks are NOT all the same. what it boils down to is butyl, peel n seal (or as we in the industry call it, peal & leak), or just about every other brand at the hardware store is asphalt based, not butyl.....[/url]

Thanks for jumping in here dieseldawg142. Your thread was one I "thought" I had subscribed to, but couldnt find it. Most significant here is that you are able to ascertain the difference between Peel and Seal, vs a quality mat product.

I thing that might not be as important to some, but concerns me is the weight savings. The spray on coatings are about 1/10th the weight of the mat style products. I have no desire to add a massive amount of weight in my cab to make it quiet.

Now I have to locate a clear or light window tint that has good thermal/UV qualities.

[dieseldawg142]

yeah, the mlv IS a heavy way to go. i can totally understand in a sharp street truck where every ounce counts, but when you already weigh 7800lbs, whats another hundred...
actually i had a little bit left over, closer to 90 lbs....
and it is a little bit of work stripping out a crew, so i want good-i dont want to do it again in a yr, and besides, it's my toy, the only thing i spend my extra cash on