Where do you want to end up?

[Dirsuper]

Hey guys,

Been around a while, but pretty quiet. I have an '88 K5 I've had for about 15 years. Got a '72 K5 last December, had a shop built earlier this year, and just picked up a '72 C20 4X4 which is already built. I could not pass up the C20 because it is a Cheyenne, same as the '72 K5.

So, I just started the build on the '72 K5. Last weekend I removed the front clip and this weekend I pulled the engine, tranny, and transfer case. My father was a drag racer, so I grew up working on Chevys, built a few budget builds in my teens, then spent 24 years in the Navy. Finally settled and getting back into doing something I love - but don't know too much about. Long way of saying, I will probably ask a lot of dumb questions!

Right now I am trying to decide how far to go with it. The only thing I have decided is that I am not pulling the body off the frame. I'm too paranoid about screwing it up. Besides, this being a CA car, there really is not any rot. I am sure there is hidden rust, but even now that I have it to torn down the level I do, I have not seen any evidence of rot. I had the normal windshield frame and rocker panels, but it was minor and I had that done immediately after I bought it.

First question: If there is no evidence of issues, any reason to rebuild the differentials? I have the service and overhaul manuals for it (the red and yellow ones) and after trying to read the procedure for overhauling the diffs......I had to spend some time with the Silver Bullet and really ponder how far I want to go. So, that's the first decision (I guess). I'm trying to stick with small, inexpensive stuff for about a year. Between the shop, braces for my 13 year old, and a new horse for my daughter for Christmas this year, money is tight right now. I spent a friggin fortune on the shop.

A few pics to kick this off:

First shop before it was done (had to rip out/re lay the driveway to it), and so on.....

[Dirsuper]

this can't be stock. Did someone rip out the steering box?

[tjsblazer]

Hey welcome to the board. That is a great looking rig. Keep the pictures coming. One of the spid label on the glove box would be interesting to see what you got.

1) That welding is definitely not factory. Hard to tell what happened there from that angle. Should just be the frame rail with a reinforcement riveted and a few small welds on the inboard side of the rail.

2) Shop looks awesome. Mind me asking what your dimensions are. I'm wanting to get started on one this fall.

BTW. You can certainly do a lot of work on the Blazer without pulling the tub off the frame but you might want to consider replacing the body mounts and reusing the factory shims to keep the same gaps as much as possible to factory. Are the rocker boxes on the underside in good shape?

As far as the diffs that depends on a lot. Is it posi or open is it leaking anywhere. Do you use the 4wd at all or does front always free wheel, etc, etc.

Cheers.

[Dirsuper]

Thanks for the reply, and the info.

As far as the shop is concerned - ask away. I drove everyone crazy planning this thing. GarageJournal is a great source of info.

My shop is 30x50 with 12' ceilings (so I can put in a lift when I get the $$$$). I put in a toilet and a deep sink, 50A 220 in 6 places for my welder/compressor(out back)/lift. I also had it plumbed for air (steel, not PVC). I went with one 18' wide 10' tall door because wall space was most important to me. All of my good buddies have shops (I live in a very rural area outside of San Diego) so I had many Friday Night Boy's Nights to see different ideas. I did not finish it inside because....it's a working shop, not just a 'hangout place.' Sure, my buddies and I drink beer here often, but that's not the primary purpose. I didn't want a 'show shop' or a 'look at me shop.' I wanted a working shop. Hell, first thing I did when it was done is pour a quart of oil on the floor - just to set the tone! I had to make it look just like the house from the outside to appease the wife, and to not kill my property value (I hope to end up back in the great state of Texas eventually). Any questions at all, just ask. Like I said, almost all of my good friends are contractors, so I have access to a lot of knowledge.

Rocker boxes are solid. Zero rust. Hell, I played around with the angle grinder yesterday going down to raw steel in a few places, and so far - zero rot, just a little surface rust which grinds away with a steel wire wheel.

I will not take this one off road. It will basically be a poseur vehicle. I want to hear Metallica in my head when I look at it, but I want it to be clean. I take the '88 out to the desert, but I don't beat it to death.

Diffs don't leak a drop. They seem solid. I was just curious what other people think about whether or not to rebuild them. I'm really looking at what I can do now, without spending a lot of money. I need about a year before I can start really getting it done. For now, a little bit here and there.

Here is a pic of the SPID.

Thanks again!

[Ta12sec]

Unless you want to change ratios or add a locker I wouldn't touch them.

On a side note your shop makes my 9x20 garage look like a closet

[Dirsuper]

No plans to change ratios or add a locker, so I guess I'll just change fluid/gasket and leave it alone. I do want to change wheel bearings, suspension/steering bushings, etc., so I guess I'll start there.

I am still debating whether or not to pull the body (or, 'tub') off the frame. My main concern is fear that I will screw it up and end up with a pile of worthless steel. I read a thread a while back either here or CK5 about a dude who dumped lots of $$$$ into one only to find upon reassembly (attempt) that the body had gotten twisted. I know about bracing the doors, but other than that......I guess I'm being a wimp!

Oh, and an edit to say yeah, that shop is my lifelong dream. I damn near live in it. The saddest part of my week is when I have to shut down on Sunday night and get ready for the work week.......my fantasy is to figure out how to make a living out of that thing.......The highlight of each day is coming home from work, changing, and walking out to the shop. Even if I just sit there and look around, I am in paradise. The family has realized, if they want to spend time with me, come out to the shop. The wife fought it for a while, but I hate the very idea of watching tv (waste of life) and I'm not much for board games.......in the shop, there's always something cool to mess with!

[elkniks]

You scored with the 3:73, mine had 3:07-very boring and used tons of gas in town.

[tjsblazer]

Assuming your truck is still stock the front axle is a Dana 44 and the Rear is a GM Truck 12 bolt.

To do the bearings on the front, you need to disassemble the locking hubs then loosen off 2 nuts / locking washer that set the pre-load on the outer bearing. The hub / rotor assembly should then slide off of the spindle. From there you can replace inner and outer bearings and the inner bearing seal. Once your that far you might as well do the spindle bearing and seal and ball joints too unless they are recently new. You have it tore down to the knuckles by then any way. If there isn't any fluid leaks noticeable coming out the end of the axle tubes your good to go. If there is, it is sealed up at the diff so you have to pull axles and get in to the front pot to replace those seals.
There is info on this in the Service manual but I found information and exploded views on the Dana Spicer website more helpful.

As far as the Rear. The rear axles need to be slid out of the tubes after you pull out the C-clips. You can then replace the bearings and seal in the outer end of the axle tubes. A lot easier tear down compared to the front. This axle was used prolifically by GM though the 70's. Most any truck service manual would have information on this.

Probably can Google both and find service information posted on line also. You tube videos too.

My memory is terrible and I can't remember exactly what all this costs even though I just did mine in the spring but for all the bearings and seals front and back and front ball joints describe above I think you should be in the $200-250 range in parts.

Like I said before, you can do a lot without pulling off the tub unless you have a lot of metal work to do you can't get at. Doesn't sound like that is the case. The bodies do flex a lot once off the frame even with good metal and getting Doors fitting right is likely where the most time is spent.

[Dirsuper]

That is really helpful stuff. I appreciate it. I am down hard for the moment (tore a bicipeal tendon, or something like that). I'm not real bright when it comes to lifting heavy things......alone.

Regardless, I can still sit on the milk crate and look...and think....and read.....and learn. Wheel bearings/etc sounds like just the right thing to start making some forward movement. I hope a week of inactivity is enough to at least be able to use the arm....any more than that and I'll go insane!

Being retired military I use Tricare for medical stuff......it will take months to get an MRI, so I am really hoping Naproxen and rest will get it moving in the right direction.....I could wait 2 years for a surgery!

[Dirsuper]

Figured it can't hurt to ask, anyone have a list (or can point me to one) of all the parts I should replace on the front axle of a '72 K5? I'm thinking wheel bearings, ball joints (do I have to have them pressed in? Out?), brakes, brake lines, rotors (or have them cut), and any bushings/seals while I am at it. I've dug through the manual, but actually found it (the actual chevy service manual, red and gold one) to be.....lacking...or I am more mentally challenged than I thought). I am sure someone, at some point, created a list for, 'Wanna freshen up the front end.'

Appreciate any help.

[IronCanine]

Is that a Highlander I spy?

[Dirsuper]

I have no idea what that means.

[IronCanine]

In 1972 Chevrolet offered a special promotional package called Highlander that offered option grouping packages at a discount along with a unique interior trim package most notably identified by plaid interior trim inserts. The packages were available in trucks, Suburbans and Blazers. They're usually easily identifiable on the SPID because of the YGX promotion codes. But since SPIDs can be wonky...I saw your tilt and A/C...and then the unlabeled blue 677 at the bottom and thought it might be one of those "hidden" Highlanders. If you've got your original dash pad and it's black...I'm guessing it might be a Highlander. Here's a thread about Blazer Highlanders started by a true expert in the field, SS Tim:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635033

[Dirsuper]

Really cool. Thanks for enlightening me. And I thought I was a Blazer guy.....I don't know nothing!

[Dirsuper]

Anyone know a place I can call and say, "I want to change out wheel bearings, ball joints, and any rubber bushings I can on a '72 K5. Anything else you recommend while I am at it?" and expect to get good help/prices? For example, I don't know if the ball joints have to be pressed in/out. The manual talks about some special tools, but does not address pressing.

[tjsblazer]

I don't know in California but I'm sure there is lots of places. Where I am up north I use Denny's Driveshaft and/or Quad 4x4. This is GM 1/2 ton. Pretty common stuff.
I prefer to use original Spicer ball joints others prefer replacement Moog or Raybestos. I also prefer Timken bearings all around.

The parts lists below is what I remember using. Actually found it all again by a quick internet search between the Timken and Spicer websites.

PLEASE VERIFY ALL PART NUMBERS YOURSELF. NO WARRANTY EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED

Spicer front ball joint kit (one per side): 706116X

Timken Front bearings:
Outer: Set 45
Inner: Set 37
Inner Seal: 442380

Spicer spindle bearing: 706527X ( This is a kit that includes the bearing and one type of seal set. I could not find individual piece numbers. The seal kit may or may not be correct for you truck. Depends on the Axle stub slinger size. It could be either 2" or 2 1/4". They changed very late '72 and also with a 40 year old truck could be either in there now ).

Rear axle Timken bearings:
Bearings #6408
Seal #8835S
Or a Kit
TRP1559TV

As far as the service. Ball joints will have to be pressed both out and in. I used a hydraulic floor press. Cheap harbor freight style I already have in my garage. You can buy one of those manual ball joint press kits that look like an oversized C clamp. Or you could just go to the back door of some garage, give the guy $20 and he would likely do the pressing out and in for you.

Rear Axle bearings / seals need pulled out and pressed in. You can probably get them pulled out with regular tools in your tool box and tap in the new ones using the old ones you removed. This axle is very easy.

Front Axle bearings / seals need pulled out, races pressed back in. There is a few more small parts because of the locking hubs and the spindle. The Inner is held in by the Inner seal. The outer is held in by a 3 piece nut lock washer affair that sets the pre-load on the bearings. Spindle bearing and seal is an easy pull out and tap in. Can't do any of this until you remove the locking hubs first.

I highly recommend visiting the spicerparts dot com website and doing a manual search to find these 2:
"Spicer Models 30 and 44 Service Manual - Internal Type Front Axle Hub Lok"
(everything you need for the locking hubs)

"Spicer Axle Maintenance Manual Model 44 - Front and Rear Carrier Type"
(this will help with the ball joint service especially the reassembly of the knuckles to the axle housing. the correct tightening order and torque is required to get the ball joint pre-load set correctly)

Search here for both these manuals.
http://media.spicerparts.com/media

The Dana 44 front and GM 12 bolt rear were used in every 1/2 ton Chev truck between the late 60's getting in to the late 70's / early 80's. Any old school mechanic in your area probably has serviced lots of these and be a good resource.
I never did it myself till recently and did it with the 2 service manuals I suggested for the front so it isn't that hard if you take your time and study ahead.
The rear bearings were done when I paid someone else to rebuild my rear end but they are a very basic pull old out and tap new in.

I would also suggest reading through areas of the two build threads linked here. Some info there. I referenced them because they did it before me when doing my front axle. You could check my build thread linked in my signature there is some stuff there also but honestly I didn't put as much detail in mine as Brad and Mike did.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=645076

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=628612

Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Wow that was a lot of typing !

[Dirsuper]

Jeff,

I can't thank you enough. Incredibly helpful. I will do all you recommend, and hope to gather the parts I need/get rolling on this (very slow) build soon. I did some really, really, really light lifting today at the gym during lunch, and tonight I did some grinding (repairing a welding table), and so far the shoulder is holding up. Hurts, but whatever, I can get some stuff done.

Again, I can't thank you enough. You ever in SoCal, beers are on me! Stone flows from my Beer Meister, and you are welcome here.

[tjsblazer]

NP. I hope some of the information above helps you out. Lots of different manufacturers for all those small parts. I only listed the brands I prefer and chose to use.
You could just as easily go to the local Napa parts counter and I'm sure they can get you all of these smalls if you are good using their jobber parts. Both axles saw prolific use in Chevy 1/2 ton trucks so they are generally well stocked.

I don't get to California very often. Once in 26 years for work, but you never know ...
Cheers.

[Chulisohombre]

The z84 code above the 677 code at the bottom also identified the blazer with highlander option. Your truck came as a factory white truck with white top. Seats should be blue and white plaid with white door panels. Black dash pad and tilt black steering column. That covers the basics of it. Nice shop and truck. If everything is right and tight under the truck is leave it and drive it and enjoy it. If there isn't a lot of rust as most California trucks are I'd leave it on the frame. Unless the body mount bushings are failing I'd just wire brush the rust areas and repaint it. Too many people take Them off the road and get them apart and they end up not ever getting done. Mine was off the road 6 years because of the night as well bug that bit me when I started pulling it apart. My truck also Came from Cali but I wrecked it by daily driving it through the snow and salt of pa. That's the reason I took it off the road. But with limited funds and time it took 6 years to get it back together and legal. Good luck and I'll be watching your progress.

[Dirsuper]

Hombre,

I appreciate the info. Yeah, I have had time (thanks to injury) to really think this through, I am not pulling the body. For what I want, not worth it. I am losing some time right now dealing with some drainage issues on my property (getting ready for this El Nino thing, thank God a buddy let me borrow his backhoe!). I am also finishing up a HUGE welding table. Regardless, every night ends with me in the shop walking around/laying under the '72 K5......it's solid. The ends don't justify the means for me to remove the body. I'm not looking to dump $30-40K into something that will be worth (tops) $20K. I'm gonna keep this on the sane level. I've decided on a 2.5" lift so I can run 33s (No offroading in this K5's future.....at least while I'm alive), a quick engine refresh, wiring, wire brush/paint frame, freshen ends of diffs, pretty up the interior/dash, get a cheap paint job, and enjoy it. I don't want it to sit for 5 years.

I should start moving on it within 3-4 months. Right now I have to get through this year, get the shoulder(s) fixed, save some $$$, and go from there.

Appreciate the input from everyone.