'72 K5 3" ORD Lift with 35s?

[Dirsuper]

Sorry about asking another lift question, but I could not find this answer anywhere.......

I should be ready to order the lift kit for my '72 within a few weeks. I know conventional wisdom says 4" lift for 35s. However, I've had 33's on my '88 (stock height, 15X8 wheels) for 15 years (not the same set of tires obviously, but always BFG ATs) and never had a problem. I don't wheel hard, but I have taken it all over Ocotillo Wells without issue. I put the wheels (and tires) from my '88 on my '72 just to check it out, and they fit (but the engine, tranny, transfer case, and front clip are removed). Regardless, I am trying to determine whether or not I can get 35s on my '72 with ORD's 3" (or, even better, 2.5") lift kit if I plan ZERO off road for this one? I plan to use 15x8 wheels, and 35/12.5-15 BFG Mud Terrain tires. I'm 45, retired from the military with a medical record 13" tall, and still manage to do damage to myself from time to time.....the less I have to climb, the better off I'll be down the road. Yeah, it's only an inch, but.......

[chad75]

4" 35 BFG All Terrains rubs slightly on front off camber turns

[Dirsuper]

Very helpful, I appreciate it. Is yours a spring lift? Do you have a zero rate in the back, or did just springs (or flip, or blocks) keep it level?

[SACRAMENTO 71]

New 6" leaf springs all around on mine with 38's and no rubbing!! Had 40's before with same lift and they would rub a little.

[SACRAMENTO 71]

How about a pic without my dumb a%# in the way! Lol

[Dirsuper]

Both of you guys have really nice rides! How do you guys find getting in and out of the 4" and/or 6" lifted K5s? I'm about 6' (used to be 6, but I think I am getting shorter........I blame it on Crossfit!) and my wife is pretty damn tall......5/10....maybe 5/10.5. I'm trying to think ahead, and it seems like I always have a messed up shoulder/knee/ankle/etc. Also, with the challenges associated with putting any type of nerf bar/step on these First Gens, I don't feel I can count on that as a solution. Two of my buddies have F-350s which are lifted 6", but they have running boards, so not much of a comparison. I don't know anyone around me with a K5 lifted with 4 or 6.

[GMC-YA68]

I am contemplating fabbing a set of Amp Research steps on mine and I only have a 2.5 and 34s!

[Dirsuper]

The plot thickens! Is the pic in the link in your sig 2.5" lift with 34" tires? Any rubbing issues during normal driving? Oh, and when you say 34, what exactly do you mean.....actual height, a 34/12.5-x, or what?

The 'stance' of the one in that link in your sig is exactly what I want, I just prefer smaller wheels/more sidewall. Regardless, that is irrelevant here, I am just interested in whether or not you can run a true 34" tire with 2.5" of lift.

BTW, after laying under mine tonight pondering, I don't see why it would be difficult (even with my lame a$s excuse for welding skills) to fab a step out of tubing (round or rectangular). Could still make it bolt on to avoid anything permanent. The tranny crossmember would still hang lower.

I'm hesitant to do the 4" or greater lift. Hell, just tonight getting into my DD (stock height '88 K5 with 33s) after some really heavy deadlifts had me thinking.........

[GMC-YA68]

Originally Posted by Dirsuper

The plot thickens! Is the pic in the link in your sig 2.5" lift with 34" tires? Any rubbing issues during normal driving? Oh, and when you say 34, what exactly do you mean.....actual height, a 34/12.5-x, or what?

The 'stance' of the one in that link in your sig is exactly what I want, I just prefer smaller wheels/more sidewall. Regardless, that is irrelevant here, I am just interested in whether or not you can run a true 34" tire with 2.5" of lift.

BTW, after laying under mine tonight pondering, I don't see why it would be difficult (even with my lame a$s excuse for welding skills) to fab a step out of tubing (round or rectangular). Could still make it bolt on to avoid anything permanent. The tranny crossmember would still hang lower.

I'm hesitant to do the 4" or greater lift. Hell, just tonight getting into my DD (stock height '88 K5 with 33s) after some really heavy deadlifts had me thinking.........

The picture in my link is actually before the 2.5 inch lift. It was hard to tell what the previous owner actually had. He had 2" blocks on the rear but I think it was to make up for the rear sagging. It would rub barely when I turned but my old frame was also F'd and my right wheel sat more forward than the left wheel. I have the 2.5" on it now and have no issues. I will take a few pictures this weekend because I am never home when it is still daylight outside.

I say 34's because they measure out pretty close to a 34. Technically I think they are a 33.4 and 12.8 wide. They are TOYO 325/60/18s.

I don't think there would be an issue with a 2.5" lift and 35s. I will take a picture of my wheel to fender clearance when turning tonight to see how much space I still have.

[Dirsuper]

Awesome! I can't thank you enough, I eagerly await as many pics as you are willing to post. Also, I am sure this will help others as well.

[Yukon Jack]

What width 35"s are you considering?

Here is my 70 K5 that has a 4" lift - I think it is Skyjacker springs up front. I had my 69 K20's 35" tires on it for a while and had rubbing when turning. Offroad it definitely would have rubbed badly. When my 69 K20 had it's 4" Tuff Country lift there was no rubbing at all during normal driving. These are 35x12.50x16 SSR's on like an 8" rim I believe.

[Dirsuper]

Yukon,

I would like to run 35/12.5 - 15s. Appreciate the info. Your 4" looks a little lower than many of the pics I've seen. That's interesting. If you don't mind, when you get a chance if you would send the height of the bottom of the door (from the ground) that could be really helpful. I've been placing wood blocks of different heights on the floor board/seats and getting in and out to see what it would be like.......not exactly the best way, but it's an idea. However, knowing what height 4" with 35s actually gives would be helpful.

[Mike C]

I ran 33 14.5 Mickey Thompsons on 15x8 wheels with no lift. Rubbing was on the leaf springs because wheels weren't wide enough.

But with 35 12.5's (or 35 14.5's that I had originally) the 4" lift is needed. You might get away with the 34's on 2.5" and maybe even 35's, but don't expect to be able to do much at all off pavement because it will rub.

[Dirsuper]

Ready to order a 4" lift kit. I was thinking ORD, should I do springs or a shackle flip in the rear? The current springs have a leaf added in and with that extra leaf (added by PO) it sits perfectly level. I want to keep it level if I can. How about the greasable bushings? Worth it? Also, are the Bilsteins $220 better than the Tuff Country shocks?

[Yukon Jack]

I'd get you the measurement but those tires are not on the Blazer now, sorry.

[Yukon Jack]

A shackle flip will move your tire forward in the wheel well. You could use a Zerorate to offset it back of course. I am happy with the greaseable bushings. Not sure about the shocks but quality shocks are always a great idea if they are within your budget.

[Dirsuper]

Anyone ever had their springs 'rearched?' I spoke to a local place that makes springs, pretty legit place/dude who has been doing it for 36 years. He told me that he can rearch them and get 3-4" of lift out of them and the thing will ride better. He was saying old springs are better because the steel is better/less alloy, etc. Rearched with new bushings and new U-bolts - $1300. Any thoughts?

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Dirsuper

Anyone ever had their springs 'rearched?' I spoke to a local place that makes springs, pretty legit place/dude who has been doing it for 36 years. He told me that he can rearch them and get 3-4" of lift out of them and the thing will ride better. He was saying old springs are better because the steel is better/less alloy, etc. Rearched with new bushings and new U-bolts - $1300. Any thoughts?

Usually when springs are re-arched an extra leaf is installed because the original has weakened over the years. This is a good way to refurbish them, but a harsher ride is usually the result.
Re-arching to get more lift won't work properly because to get a higher lift would mean the bushing eyes would have to be a bit further apart. If you're willing to spend $1300 on getting old springs redone, why not buy new ones? IMO

[Ole Beater]

I put a 4" on mine with a zero rate from ORD installed to move the axle back 1 inch to center it in the wheel well. The problem that I ran into was the drive shaft was too short and I had to have a custom driveshaft made. I don't think the ORD shackle flip would give you that problem though. Also you have to consider that the lift will raise the truck 4" and the larger tires will add half of the difference from the old to the new tire size.