250 to 5.3 swap

[LeesTruk]

I cut the ends of the fuel sender lines so that compression fittings could be installed, then I used an assortment of Dorman Products fuel line repair parts, Dorman nylon fuel line (3/8, and 5/16) for my delivery and return lines. Using AN fittings and stainless sheathed fuel lines was too much for my fixed income (I'm retired). The most expensive part of the fuel system is the tool for inserting the fittings into the lines, but worth every penny for quick and correct assembly. It also helped having a hydraulic flaring tool with the correct dies to make the connection point on the outlet side of the filter/regulator

So far, the system has been trouble free

Lee

[LeesTruk]

Here's your part numbers

800-155 12" double beaded line 3/8"
800-154 12" double beaded line 5/16" (I only used one side of the line)
800-074 5/16" fuel line (10' roll)
800-075 3/8" fuel line (10' roll)
800-80 5/16" connector (2pc. box)
800-82.5 3/8" connector (5pc. box)
800-301 fuel line tool

All of this can be had, at Amazon or online somewhere, but most real auto parts stores will usually carry the parts. The tool they will probably have to order

Lee

[conman585]

Originally Posted by LeesTruk

Here's your part numbers

800-155 12" double beaded line 3/8"
800-154 12" double beaded line 5/16" (I only used one side of the line)
800-074 5/16" fuel line (10' roll)
800-075 3/8" fuel line (10' roll)
800-80 5/16" connector (2pc. box)
800-82.5 3/8" connector (5pc. box)
800-301 fuel line tool

All of this can be had, at Amazon or online somewhere, but most real auto parts stores will usually carry the parts. The tool they will probably have to order

Lee

Thanks a lot Lee!!!

[65standard]

On your AC compressor, where did you get those 90* fittings? I need something like those on my LSx swap too.

[foamypirate]

Originally Posted by 65standard

On your AC compressor, where did you get those 90* fittings? I need something like those on my LSx swap too.

ColdHose has them:

https://coldhose.com/specialty-fitti...-adapters.html

Search that page for "GM 5.3L Compressor Blocks"

[LeesTruk]

Yep, that's where I got 'em

[Low Elco]

Great thread and nice work!

[LeesTruk]

Well, it's been a year now, since the truck has been put together, so I thought I'd give sort of a "follow up". After some initial problems, which turned out to be a faulty PCM, and the "usual" new build bugs, the truck has been a real pleasure to drive!! Start-up is immediate in any temp., acceleration is tremendous (and scary if not paying attention), easy to drive, and a surprise in fuel efficiency/economy (19-20 mpg hiway). Overall, I couldn't be happier with the swap



Lee

[enroberts]

This was VERY helpful. i just ordered all the parts for the fuel system you used and posted here. Can you tell me what fuel pump and filter you used? My truck has a 4.8 with a return rail that I plan to use so I don't think I need a separate regulator as that system on the motor should take care of it, but I still need a pump and filter. The sending unit I bought is a Spectra Premium FG05M and I THINK the pump I need is a Spectra Premium SP1115 in tank pump. Thanks!

[LeesTruk]

Mr. Roberts, I gather your truck is pre-1973 so I don't know what tank you're gonna use. Concerning the fuel pump, I used an ACDelco e381 pump (in tank). You can also use a Delphi FE0114 pump (in tank) . For your filter, you can use an ACDelco GF652 (or equiv.). It has a threaded boss on each side, but you can get two of Dorman #800-170 (one for each side of the filter) and plug in the nylon fuel Lines (fuel in, fuel out) or you can use a Fram #g8219 (or equiv.) filter. It has a threaded boss on one side and a nipple on the other. In this case, you'd only need one of Dorman #800-170, then just plug in your fuel lines. For your return, just run your fuel line from the fuel rail back to the return side of your fuel bracket in your tank. BTW, the pumps and filters I've listed, are from a '97 Silverado. That should help with your conversations with whom ever you get your parts from

Lee

[AMERICAN PICK-UP]

NICE fuel system...

[LeesTruk]

Thank you, sir. Sometimes simple is good

[dec010974]

This is how I modified my sending unit.

[dec010974]

Added to this. I have a 1980 GMC Sierra, C15.

[dec010974]

Good luck.

[dec010974]

This my forth LSx swap. You just can't beat them.

[enroberts]

Originally Posted by dec010974

Added to this. I have a 1980 GMC Sierra, C15.

how did you attach them?

[dec010974]

Enroberts, I had them crazed on.

[michael bustamante]

Originally Posted by LeesTruk

Thought I'd take a different approach for my fuel system. I'm using Dorman Products fuel line and fittings. We used this stuff in the repair shop and had good luck with it. The insertion tool is kinda pricey, and there are ways around using it, but the tool makes line construction so easy.









The nylon lines can be easily routed as long as there are no sharp bends, 'cause the stuff will kink. There are 90* fittings available if you need to make a quick turn. Also, use a heat shield of some kind (I use aluminized sheathing) if the lines pass near a heat source like exhaust pipes.



Another nice feature of the Dorman Products is that you can adapt their stuff to existing, or new, steel lines

Ready to put the front clip back on



Lee

Ok i need this fuel line with the fittings. Where can i find it?

[LeesTruk]

You have to make it yourself. All of the stuff is from Dorman Products and should be easily obtainable from an automotive parts store or you can get the parts from an online source (Amazon, Ebay, etc.). I highly recommend getting the tool for inserting the fittings into the nylon line. It makes assembly a snap, once you figure out how to use it (no instructions come with it). I can post some pics of how to set it up, if needed. Also, make your turns gently, as the tubing will kink if the turn is too sharp! Overall, it's very cost effective and easy to use

BTW, just buy the parts as listed previously. Don't buy the whole fuel line kit from Dorman. It's way too expensive and it contains stuff you'll never ever need/use

Lee

[D13]

Originally Posted by LeesTruk

I can post some pics of how to set it up, if needed.
Lee

Yes please! This looks like a great solution for us 'chrome don't get ya home' guys. But the tool looks a little intimidating for an old guy like me.

[Rich84]

I'll be watching too..Getting ready to do the fuel system soon.

Thanks. Lee

[LeesTruk]

Ok, here's a quick tutorial of how to use the Dorman tool (800-301) and how to make a fuel line with coupling. I'll be using the 3/8" nylon line and fitting



The first step is setting up the tool with the clamp (similar to a tubing flaring tool) and the fitting fixture





Insert your tubing into the clamp with about 1/4" protruding



Use some light oil of your choice, lubricate the barbs (makes insertion easier) then install your fitting onto the pointed fixture





Next, push the tool fixture and fitting into the tube opening then squeeze the tool handle until the fitting is fully inserted into the tubing





The finished product.



It's that easy

If you check the filter/regulator picture, you'll see the input side has two nipples made into it (3/8", 5/16"). The output side has a female receiver. I made a short double ended male tube, made from the Dorman 12" steel line. This line only has one barbed end, so I used my hydraulic flaring tool and fuel fitting die to make the second male end to insert into the regulator, then just plugged the new fuel line onto it.

Don't try heating the nylon tube and think you can just push a fitting into it. The nylon will not get soft and pliable. Also, it doesn't have a memory, meaning it won't just go back to what size it was, forming a tight seal. Once it's out of shape, that's the way it remains!

Lee

[D13]

AH, I see. You needed a male end to mate to the FFR, which you made from steel line. The other end fits the nylon fitting. Question - is the required end for the steel line to the nylon fittings a simple bubble type flare, a barb flare (like the vapor line shown in your sender unit picture), or just straight line?

BTW thank you very much for the info.

[LeesTruk]

If you look at a picture of Dorman double beaded line (800-155) you'll see how the lines are connected. It's neither a bubble nor barb, but a raised surface that is formed when the line is compressed on itself. The fore mentioned line is 12" in length, but I thought it would be too much leverage on the FFR. That's why I shortened it to about 2". I suppose if you anchored the output line and FFR really well, then there shouldn't be a problem