Would like review of Steele vent window rubber 64-66

[Metalaroundstone]

I can't seem to get anybody who has installed steele vent window rubber to provide feedback on the results. Mainly I want to know if the vent windows open and close easily and do they fit snug against the outside of the door.

I used Precision brand vent window rubber and it had an 1/8" gap between the rubber and the outside door (perfect for water to drain down into the door). I had to shim out the rubber seal with a strip of rubber between the vent window frame and the seal to close this gap, but it still isn't as tight as i would like. Also, the vent windows are very difficult to close with this new rubber.

I also used Precision brand beltline window sweeps and the clips for installing them had such jagged edges they would not go into the slots without modification. The clips were so brittle that several of them broke off during installation. Fortunetely I had my original seals to steal clips from.

Lastly, the new pivot rivets does not fit tightly, allowing play in the hinge, which was not there with the 50 year old stainless pivot rivet that I had to drill out to rebuild the vent window. I got two sets of pivot rivets ( one set from filling station and another set from Classic Car Parts) Both sets had the same sloppy fit.

Anyway, I am dissatisfied with the rebuild. I really would like to know if the Steele brand vent rubber solves the gap issue and are easier to open and close.

Also, anybody know where to get better fitting pivot rivets?

[chtr65]

I did a vent window rebuild on my 65 last year using the Steele rubber. Without trying any of the others on the market, I would have to say that Steele rubber is a good bet. I have always believed there rubber seals to be a better fit than most. The vent rubbers fit extremely well, and when compared to my original they were a perfect match. As far as the open space between the seal and the door, my originals were that way before they were removed. You will also notice that the division bar also sits back from the door about the same distance. It shows on your photo as well as being the same on my truck. You could easily fix this with a strip of black sealer tape, rolled round. I thought about doing that to my truck. But at present I have not done it yet. Probably because I don't get my truck wet. As far as the rivets go, I used the rivet kit from LMC. I did use a small stainless steel washer on the bottom side. I think this did help to tighten the rivet up. The stainless steel washer looks natural and correct, although it is not. Hope this helps.

[Gooker928]

I used them for my vent windows and back glass.
I'm a fan of their products.. The vent window was a little hard to open and close at first but loosened up in time...

[racecougar]

So the Steele rubber leaves the same gap? That's a bummer.

[Metalaroundstone]

Thanks for the replys. Too bad about the gap issue. I was hoping that the Steele rubber would resolve this issue.

[DaddyOh]

Regardless of price, even if it costs an arm and a leg.....does anyone sell window rubber that fits?

Need to buy everything but rather buy once...

[oldtimer1959]

Have used Rubber the Right Way many times with good results. They are an authorized Steele rubber dealer but they discount Steele's pricing. They can also provide Metro, Precision, Soff Seal among others. They guarantee their products and have been very helpful. www.RubberTheRightWay.com

[bigmoe]

That problem may be because the outer and inner door panels sometimes spread apart a bit. I had a Ford once with that same problem. There was a metal piece that joined inner and outer just forward of the divider bar that had broken. Not sure if these doors are similar.

[nsb29]

Thay where never ment to fit LOL I watch a video where they pull the rubber flap out over the opening ???

[jchav62]

Originally Posted by nsb29

Thay where never ment to fit LOL I watch a video where they pull the rubber flap out over the opening ???

You're exactly right. The rubber is supposed to be 'pulled out' to cover the gap. This is not the greatest pic, but it's the best pic I could find online to kind of show how it's supposed to look.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by jchav62

You're exactly right. The rubber is supposed to be 'pulled out' to cover the gap. This is not the greatest pic, but it's the best pic I could find online to kind of show how it's supposed to look.

Yep

[bigmoe]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1542593658

Here's a picture of the two tabs that hold the outer and inner skins together. Often those tabs tear apart and the gap can spread. I measured the gap there on mine and it appears to be 15/16" on one door and 1" on the other.

[Johns 66]

Here is a video I found of a guy who rebuilt his vent windows...its pretty good

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRktGcaUQFA&t=333s

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by Johns 66

Here is a video I found of a guy who rebuilt his vent windows...its pretty good

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRktGcaUQFA&t=333s

One thing I did notice he put in the rivet in backwards the other thing I saw was he put the fuzzy in last with the glass already in there I don’t know how he got the window down far enough because with the Glass in place there ain’t no way can you get the fuzzies in there Little lone your fingers To pop it in I put my glass in First I let it sit on the bottom of the door installed the fuzzies and then pulled the glass up and put it on the regulator and then put the wind wing and last